WOMAN'S WORLD

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIV, Issue 22, 20 July 1911, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD

(Conducted by "Eileen"). FLOWER MILLINERY Flower-trimmed millinery in once again to carry all before it in the lists of fashion. For a far longer period than is usually 'the case, feathers have warned off all rivals in the realm of smart headgear. Even now the feather craze is a long way from being exhausted, and the bleached white hats lined with the inevitable black velvet are piled with masses of white plumes like a heaped snowdrift. The feather of to-day is, however," a costly possession. The immense "pleureuse" with its long drooping fronds which begin in a pale shade of mist grey and change by the softest of gradations to Parma mauve, or the white plume which is tipped with cherry or black with grey is not to be obtained for a mere song, and flowers have at last been definitely and not only tentatively called in to ring the changes to a certain extent.

CURLED FEATHJiR QUILLS. Numbers of the hats, however, which are less costly that the pleureuse-trim-med model, and are yet still within the realm of the feather hat, are almost innocent of trimming except for a couple of long soft feather quills up the centre and curled round the stem with the stiffness and precision of a costermonger's forelock. A sorrel green quill on a black hat with a thick piping of sorrel satin round the brim, or in lieu of this a cherrycolored feather with a piping of the same, are both favorite schemes in this connection, and with a simple tailormade gown they provide a charming accompaniment. CLOSE HELMETS.

The favorite hat of all is a close helmet which is pulled right down over one eye and has generally an upward kink at the back. The newest examples of these are designed in white straw with black velvet lining, and are trimmed sometimes with a cluster of velvet limes, carried out with the most realistic effect in the acid-looking, greenish yellow of the fruit, and sometimes with a mass of pure white giant lilies-of-the-valley or delicate silk harebells set straight up in front of the hat as though a bunch of the blossoms had been just released from the strand of grass which had confined them. SHEAF OF GRASSES. A few velvet poppies, or cornflowers, with a big sheaf of grasses, is another scheme which is rapidly coming into favor, and these are used in many instances to decorate the lingerie hats or the simple Leghorn straws for river wear.

PIOOT RIBBON. The old-fashioned picot ribbon represents a revival in the realm of simple he)idgear which is more than welcome. White glace ribbon with the little edge in question, and worn on a hat of pervenche blue, provides a charming alliance, life great many-looped bow being perched almost on the top of the crown, and spreading out in all directions. Tall wired "stalks" covered with a mass of ribbon leaves represent another scheme, the crown of the hat being ruched round with the same leaves; while yet another curious fancy revival, which is, however, very effective in a number of instances, is the vogue for stalks of Indian corn, the closely-packed grain being simulated by beads of padded silk in the yellow tone of the ripe corn, and worn on the hat after the manner of the feather quill.

WHITE OVER BLACK The charm of white over black (says a writer in the London Times) is not fully realised by Englishwomen. The Parisienne appreciates it, however, and I am told that, in spite of the riot of color offered to her choice, she will "in many instances turn from all blues and reds and greens and yellows, and choose this eminently chic combination. For this reason I made a special mental note of a beautiful model designed in black crepe meteore and dead white tulle and lace. The crepe contrived the simple corsage and skirt; and over this the white tulle was carried as a tunic straight to the knees, where it divided, anl, bordered by a wide band of needle-run lace, it was swept away to joint the folds of the back draperies, which were also edged with lace. The tunic of this white and black dress may be taken as typical of some of the more elaborate which will be worn during the season. In many instances the mousseline or ninon or crepe is draped from the sides and the folds are caught in front in the most artistic manner.' Sometimes these draperies are held by a band of embroidery carried down from tho corsage, or by some quaint Hat clasp of polished jet. One beautiful dress of this type was draped with black mousseline de sole over a satin of a! purple subdued by a hint of grey; a I second was of a curious black and white checked mousseline over a satin which was neither white nor grey, but exactly the shade of the lining 'of an oyster shell; and another was of dark blue ninon powdered with pale yellow flowers, and further embroidered with a conventional design in white china beads and worn over white; and yet a fourth, of black chiffon draped over gold satin, which wa3 decorated witli a deep band of Venetian point; while a fifth was of black ninon veiling the same shade of oysterwhite I have noticed above. The same idea characterised a yellow mar-i quisette over eharmeu.se of the same) shade worn at a smart "5 o'clock" by a beautiful woman, whom it clad "like an April daffodilly." I

ENGLISH GIRL IN WARSAW PRISON A QUESTION OF NATIONALITY. In connection with a message published the other day that a social democratic demonstration had been held in London to demand the intervention of Sir Edward Grey, Secretary of State for Fo-i reign Affairs, on behalf of Miss MaleckaJ who has been imprisoned for several i months in Warsaw, the following, taken from the London Daily News of June 8 I will be interesting:—. 'j

About two months ago Miss Malecka, a British subject, and a pianist well known in London, was arrested in Warsaw by order of the secret police. No specific charge has been made against her, but she remains incarcerated in the Alexander Citadel. She had been living in Poland for some months before her arrest, and had occupied herself by giving music lessons. The question of Miss Malecka's nationality is simple. Her mother was an Englishwoman and her father a Polish emigrant and a naturalised British subject. Hence, according to British law, Miss Malecka is a British subject, and has the right to expect such help and protection as the British Government can afford her.

According to Russian law, Mr. Malecka remained a Russian subject in spite of naturalisation in England, an act; in which the Russian Government refuses to acquiesce except in rare instances. Hence the Russian authorities ; assume that Miss Malecka is a Russian subject. They are apparently not aware that the marriage of her parents was, according to Russian law,: null and void. The ceremony was performed in an Anglican church, although Mr. Malecka. was a Roman Catholic. Russian law requires that a Russian Catholic be married by a Catholic priest. Miss Malecka, therefore, according to Russian law, takes her mother's nationality, and is a British subject. • _ Miss Malecka has lived almost all her life in England. She is an orphan, and it is comparatively lately that she- learnt the Polish language out of reverence for her father's memory.