WOMAN'S WORLD

Taranaki Daily News, Volume LIV, Issue 21, 19 July 1911, Page 6

WOMAN'S WORLD

(Conducted by "Eileen"). . LONDON FASHION NOTES. A GENTLE HINT AND THE SEQUEL. London, June 2. As evidence of what may quickly be brought to pass as the result of the circulation of a little hint from high quarters, one has only to instance the complete abandonment of the extremely tight skirt, due to the gentle little intimation that its presence would be regarded with disfavor if worn at Buckingham Palace. Almost as a lightning streak, the unduly skimpy skirt, restricting natural movement, has disappeared, and there is consequently an all-round improvement to chronicle—the skirts of this season are now definitely decided upon, and we do not see a solitary model, prepared of ethereal material for dressy occasions, that is not allowed to have easy play from the waist downward as far as it chooses to fall, and the majority of the over-dresses prefer to fall all the way to the feet to keep company with the foundation, though, of course, there are still innumerable models which have a contrasting hem, The mission of this deep band, though, is not any longer to tuck away the fulness above it; it must always in future be as wide as the other part of the skirt material, and fall naturally as part of it, while sufficient ■width is introduced to ensure comfortable walking. The dresses which we see of ninon, chiffon, silk muslin, mirquisette, and kindred fabrics all have the skirts set in fullness round the waist-line, tiny tucks having the preference over fine gauging, and the continuation to the edge is easy and giaceful, with just a narrow band of colored silk to protect the hem from soiling toa readily, and also to provide a little substance to weight the flimsy material. It must not, however, be concluded flat the fashionable skirt has gone to the other extreme as regards width-measure-ment —far from it —but at the same time it will lie generally admitted now: that the happy medium has been hit, 1 and as there is ample fulness for all practical needs there is no reason why we should return to the measurement of five years ago. The great aim is to keep the figure slim and straight, stress being laid on the encouragement of length of line; such protuberances as hips still ought to have no existence. Skirts of more solid stuff, such as summer tweed or the tailoring Shantung, have not yet been given a corresponding increase at the edge, but there is a marked tendency for the newer costumes to be treated with a little more generosity in the matter of skirt-width. and, of course, it is not always that the width of the satin foundation to a mousseline dress is as wide as its veiling, but it allows the latter to have all the play it requires, and it permits tie wearer to move without the discomfort-1 ing feeling that she will trip over herself extra careful. The Parisi-! enne, though, still prides herself on get-j ting a gingham dress out of four yards of material. ;

LIBERTY CONSIDERABLE. In addition to the welcome improvement which has swooped down upon London with most startling suddenness, the fashionable lady has allowed very considerable choice with regard to other details of her dress. For instance, she may please herself just where she will have her waist-line—it may be in any position preferred, and still be quite fashionable; she may please herself whether that waist-line is marked by a narrow piping or by a slightly wider cord, or by a more noticeable folded belt of silk, and variety is further imparted when some people like to have the waist firmly gripped and outlined, and when others prefer tb have the belt so that no pressure is felt. Very simple and youthful is a high waistband of ribbon velvet tied across the front of the figure in a demure little bow of Quaker severity, perfectly square and without ends, and a finish such as this may give the needed touch of piquancy to, say. a dress of white marquisette with the skirt front inset with a panel of needlepoint lace, the bodice being altogether of the lace made as a little full coatee edged above the natural waist-line with a ting gauged frill surmounted with a belt of cerise velvet ribbon tied across the front—much of the season's conspicuous successes will be found to depend on clever little touches such as the one mentioned, which in cold print seem too simple and trivial to warrant record, and no color-splash is more effective than the muoh-liked cerise, which has its tone-variations just as lias every| other color.

The collarless bodice is a favorite of the season; yet, on the other hand, anyone who prefers a real choker is at perfect liberty to have it, and we see some of the collarbands reaching right up behind the ears; the high band is always outlined with a little touch of colored silk or volve or by a lien of colored beads, usually made of dyed pearl. Vests and guimpes and neckbands are made of such fine, almost invisible, fabric, and made minus tucks or fulness that their presence is seldom noticed until inspection has become very close. One would perhaps be not far wrong in saying that quite fifty per cent, of dress bodices are collarless, twenty-five per cent, are quite decollete, and the other twentv-five per cent, collar-bands which are a "continuation of the guimpe. and the majority of these are almost invisible on account of their fineness and perfect fit, j Further, this summer there is a tremendous choice in the matter of styles,' for dresses may be made with a tunic—j and that is an expansivo word, as tunics are themselves so remarkably varied in shape-with panels, with the queer little jerkin, which is like a coat of mail, covering the bodice and ending a little way below the waist, which is outlined with a narrow belt; peplum draperies still are given a turn, and their effect is very graceful—the Quaker apron front accords with some of the more severely patterned costumes. Then, bodices come in for great variety of treatment, the draped fichu has returned, bolero-like trimmings are used, there are long taper-' >ng vests, and there are rounded ones ' but— '

THERE IS ONE HARD AND FAST , RULE. " ; j Every dress and every coat and every jacket and every blouse—that is, every one which professes to be cut according to latest fashion—must have the Magyar sleeve all in one with the bodice. No law of Medcs and Persians could have been more inexorable, though possibly the present edict will survive not much beyond tliis year. However, there it is, and as it has to be, it is fortunate that some clever cutters seem to have found a way of making this previously always shapeless stylo a little more shapely and pleasing, and the severity rigidly enforced last year is now relaxed considerably, so that tuckings of the pin variety introduced in long lines on top of the shoulder collect all that hitherto induced sloppincss, and as a result give a bodice that is altogether more compact. A FAIRY FABRIC. In this gay season, when so many fabrics are used, it is almost invidious to select one from the long list as receiving any more favor than any other, but one cannot help coming to the conclusion that ninon will be the most-wanted material of the summer, not only for day and evening dresses, for veiling purposes, for blouses, but also for the latest innovation of all —the delicate transparent day-wrap. Nowadays hardly any smart dress is counted complete unless it is covered with a long cloak of transparency, the choice resting with ninon, lace, net, chiffon or marquisette, and one is pretty safe in saying that in this particular department ninon will be more used; besides, it is wanted for scarves, and these have now arrived at dimensions so important that they are worn in mantle form, having a square piece arranged to fall down the back similar to a large sailor collar, or fichu draperies worn as cross-overs.

Ninon can be had in plain colors; a great deal of it shows the most dainty little floral sprays in soft colors softly blended, much of it is printed with a large scattered pattern, the flowers then chosen being wistaria sprays or clumps or iris or a deep border line of splendid roses; some of the ninon is spotted, some of it is woven in narrow stripes, a good deal of it is shot, but quite the latest variety is the shaded species which accommodates itself to the production of all kinds of surprising results. This ninon is double width, and so is extremely useful for dresses, for mantles, for draperies, and for wraps. THE WEE,K'S NOVELTY.

Beyond any possible shadow of doubt, the "notion" of this week is the "Fanshade." This trifle—and it is a most attractive and convenient one—combines the dual duties of fan and sunshade, though placed side by side with a fashionable sunshade it would indeed seem rather a dwarf. However, this fanshade is a captivating trifle, and it will be much used, since it can be closed up and carried slinging from the wrist just as easily as can a simple fan. When it is opened and the two edges fastened with the hooks provided, a pretty roundshaped fan is displayed, made perhaps of dainty silk or muslin or gauze—indeed, of anything that usually composes a fan, the sticks being of ivory or mother-of-pearl or of tortoiseshell, the handle to correspond. Used to make a breeze this fan is very effective. But it is the second function that renders it more noteworthy, since the handle is constructed on a telescopic principle and is adjustable; a spring makes it stand away from the fan, and it is then lengthened out, and almost before one is aware of the coming change a sunshade is there, quite large enough to act as protection in a garden or to be used as a wind-screen when motoring. According to its likely uses, so the selection of the color and the material and the presence or absence of appliques and embroideries and decorations generally. The fanshade is only yet at the infant stage of its popularity, because it is little known-, but presently its fame will be spread abroad, and the demand will be great