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Gardening Notes

Fruit Garden Care of fruiting trees and bushes is so important that for once I propose to give them pre-eminence in these notes. It is realised that, left to nature alone, fruit trees cannot mature healthy growth. Consequently, regular applications of pest controls must be administered to assist nature. Orchardists know from experience the necessity and value of spraying to a regular programme to get results. But the more occasional home gardener may do something or nothing about it and risks his crops and often his trees in consequence. The present is a very critical time in fruit tree care, for neglect to spray now is foolish.

Apples and pears, so subject to the codlin moth grubs, should be sprayed with arsenate of lead at two dessert spoonfuls to one gallon of water. The poison deposited on foliage and the open calyx heart of the fruitlets will be where the hatched-out grubs will make for, and it will account for them. Once the grub has entered the centre of the little fruit and the calyx closes, 4 he is safe. Hence the importance of getting some of the liquid into the cavity before it closes. Spray all stone fruit with lime sulphur one tablespoonful and a half to one gallon of This is for the control of fungoid troubles, leafcurl, brown rot, die back of shoots, shotholt fungus, etc., and is a vitally important link in the chain. It should be repeated in about three weeks’ time. If dying curl-infested twigs are evident, cut them right off and pick off badly curled leaves. Spray apples for mildew with Bordeaux. Some varieties are immune, but Jonathan, Lord Wolseley, Sturmer, and Cox’s Orange take it rather badly. It is shown by a silvery appearance of the young tip growths. There again some of the worst can be pruned off. Spray raspberries with arsenate to control the small green grubs now hatching and making for the buds to enter the stems. Many barren canes are evidence of the damage done by them last season; so be wise. Where necessary, these sprays can be joined and applied as a dual spray to save time, but separate applications are preferable. Spray vines with colloidal sulphur for mildew. Even dusting with dry sulphur would help. Vegetable Garden Jobs of importance now include tomato and potato planting. With the former, it is hoped that the severe frost of 12 months ago will not repeat itself, and that a normal tomato crop will result this season. A. warm,open position in manured soil should be chosen. It is always, wise to pul. the stake into position at the lime of planting. With potatoes, all areas available may now be filled with a good main crop variety. It Js unnecessary to emphasise the importance of this crop to the average householder, especially on normal moisture-holding soils. Lettuce for Christmas salads and early cabbage should be planted. Seed sowing of general vegetables can be continued. Dwarf and runner beans should find a place, the latter usually being relegated tu the fence. Much better results will be got by open row sowing if suitable pole supports can be provided. Earth up early peas and notatoes through the ground. Give the rows t good dusting of dry manure prior co earthing up. Vegetable marrow, pumpkin, cucumber, and sweet corn should be sown. All these prefer a warm, sheltered position in full sun. Sowings of winter greens should not be delayed for best results. Leeks, savoys, Brussels sprouts, kohl rabi, swede, drumhead cabbage ri’.i.d broccoli are needed Cor next wimev. One or other of them will be useable from May to November of next year. Sow carrbts, parsnips, beet, silver and spinach beet, onions, radishes, turnips, parsley, lettuce and endive. Successional sowings of peas should be made, choosing a main crop variety such as Greenfeast, or Yorkshire Hero. Early sown rows may need thinning. This will provide an opportunity to hand weed the rows. Flower Garden Recent weather conditions have been favourable for bedding out work, and gardeners have taken advantage of the fact. It is quite certain that little watering of plants has been

needed. Azalea mollis varieties have done extremely well this season, their bright yellow to flame shades making a most effective display in many gardens. Coloured brooms have also made their powerful contribution. Spaces between shrubs or on the borders can be easily filled now as all kinds of bedding plants can be used. Stocks, antirrhinums, and petunias are favourites, but asters, zinnias and marigolds for later flowering can always be found room for. Chrysanthemums can be planted. Care in the choice of site is important as because of their flowering in winter, all the shelter possible should be given .them. For hardiness and cutting value for the house the small flowered or pompon sections, the singles and the anemone centred, are much the best. I am often asked about the advisability of pruning daphne plants. It is advisable to prune these bushes—and also erica and baronia—if they are getting straggly or unshapely. Pruning may be done now safely and the cuts should be made back to a healthy shoot or branch. Building a small frame support round the daphne bush will keep its arms off the ground, and help to develop a more upright type of bush.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/TAWC19471105.2.13

Bibliographic details

Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 75, Issue 6442, 5 November 1947, Page 5

Word Count
890

Gardening Notes Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 75, Issue 6442, 5 November 1947, Page 5

Gardening Notes Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 75, Issue 6442, 5 November 1947, Page 5