THE HOME GARDEN

Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 64, Issue 4535, 11 February 1942, Page 3

THE HOME GARDEN

THE KITCHEN GARDEN RAISING WINTER VEGETABLES SOIL PREPARATION .AND MANURES Cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celery, and spinach for winter and spring use must be sown or planted this month. If you are the possessor of an established garden, the work can be put in hand without much trouble, but if you are in the process of making a garden by turning the soil for the first time, a considerable amount of preparation is essential to success. We will therefore approach the subject from both points of view. ESTABLISHED GARDENS Assuming that your kitchen garden consists of a well-worked and welldrained soil that has recently produced crops, it will now be necessary to attend to a few preliminaries before sowing and planting. The first step is to dig it over, removing all weeds, and give it a dressing of slaked lime, four ounces to the square yard being sufficient. If the soil was heavily manured for the previous crop, only a small addition will now be necessary, but on no account incorporate fresh manure or unrotted vegetation into the soil. Such materials result in a temporary reduction in available plant food, and should therefore be used only when the soil is likely to remain fallow for several months. Dig in a little old manure, leaf-mould or • composted matter.

The second step is to work the soil to a fine tilth, sprinkle superphosphate over it at the rate of one to two ounces per square yard, and then make the soil firm. A few days later cabbage and cauliflower seed can be sown broadcast or in drills about half an inch deep. Firm the soil again after sowing. Seedlings should be planted 18 inches apart in rows two feet apart

Carrots do best in a deep, rich soil that was heavily manured for a previous crops. Fresh manure must never be used. A week or so before sowing work in three ounces each of lime and wood ash to every square yard. Work to a very fine state, make the soil firm, then sow half-inch deep in drills ten inches apart. When seedlings appear gradually thin them out till they are four inches apart. It is most important that the soil be kept firm in carrot rows. Loose soil encourages the development of carrot fly. An occasional application of liquid manure (the colour of weak tea) is a valuable stimulant. Apply once a fortnight after plants become well established.

To grow a celery crop successfully it is necessary to have a deep, friable soil, well enriched with organic manure to a depth of at least 18 inches. Old farmyard manure or composted material should be thoroughly worked into the soil and the top soil should be further enriched to a depth of six inches by the addition of wood ashes (four ounces to the square yard) and superphosphate (three ounces to the square yard). If you cannot get wood ashes use sulphate of potash at the rate of two ounces to the square yard. It is too late to trouble with seed now, so purchase the necessary number of seedlings from your seedsman or nurseryman. Plant them in trenches nine inches deep, allowing nine inches between each plant. The trenches should be 18 inches apart. Water thoroughly after planting. When growth commences apply liquid manure at fortnightly intervals. Remember that if celery suffers from lack of moisture for even a few days its quality will suffer. Earthing up will be a necessary operation when the plants have made some progress, but that can be discussed in a future article. Spinach, a popular, l health-giving vegetable, is easily grown from now on. It requires a well-worked soil, rich in humus. 'Spinach runs to seed quickly if it lacks moisture; it is therefore essential to make sure that the soil is well enriched with matter from your compost heap or old farm manure. Sow in drills 12 inches apart, and cover the seed with a quarter-inch of fine soil.

NEW GARDENS If you are working up a new garden on thelines suggested in a previous article, you have now reached the stage where you have a plot of rough-ly-dug soil that has been limed. It is now time to break up that soil and reduce it to as fine a state as possible. If you are new to gardening, you will probably find the task a somewhat trying one, but you will soon develop your own technique. Few people realise the value of a garden rake for breaking down dry soil. Use the back of the rake, and the job can be done quickly, efficiently, and painlessly. As your compost heap will not be ready for use, you will probably find some difficulty in obtaining the necessary organic matter. Try to obtain some

old manure or leaf-mould, but if that is impossible get together as 'much rich top-soil as possible from other parts of your garden, and mix it into the plot you are developing. Take only the top six inches and mix a little blood and bone with it. It will not be nearly so effective as organic manures, but will be much better than relying solely on artificial fertilisers. A few days beiore sowing or planting, scatter a complete garden fertiliser over the whole plot at the rate of four ounces per square yard, and lightly work it in. That will act as a temporary stimulant, and will help to make good some of the natural elements lacking in a humus-poor soil. You can then sow or plant in accordance with the instructions given under the heading of “ Established Gardens.” Use liquid manure at weekly intervals on all crops to make good humus deficiency. Old soot, farmyard manure, or dried blood make good liquid manures. Soak the material in water and dilute for use as required. A safe strength is generally that which has the colour of weak, tea. “ Complete artificial fertilisers ” are put up in 141 b bags by several manufacturers, and are Obtainable from most seed stores. SUMMER PRUNING The summer pruning of fruit trees and bushes is an operation which should be carried out this month, and one which has a distinct bearing on the production of fruit buds. Especially is this the case in small gardens when the soil may have been heavily manured for vegetable crops, and during a season like the present when there is an evenly-distributed rainfall and a lot of dull weather. In dry and sunny districts it may not be so necessary. It is not so necessary when trees are bearing heavily, for then the fruit production retards wood growth/but in young trees which are just beginning to bear it is a distinct advantage. It is really meant to reduce the leafage to allow light and air to get into the centre of the trees and bushes, to assist in the ripening of the fruit, and the formation of fruiting spurs for future bearings. If the growth on an apple tree is examined it will be seen that there are three types, one which is retarded and is bearing fruit or has borne blossoms, another of fairly vigorous growths arising from the sides of the main branches, and a third of strong growths at or near the ends of the main branches.

The short spurs are not touched at all; the lateral growths are shortened back to four, five, or six leaves, according to the strength of the growth on the tree, and the terminal shoots, which represent the extension of the branches, are shortened back to 12 or 18 inches, according to the amount of new wood we mean to add each year. This shortening back of the strong growths has a tendency to secure a more even distribution of the sap, the lower and weaker growths getting a better share. Though summer pruning is usually confined to apples and pears, young plums and cherries can also be operated on. The summer pruning of fruit,bushes and vines varies according to the kind of wood on which the fruit is borne. In the case of red currants it is on little spurs on the old wood, in gooseberries it is borne on both the young and old wood, and in the case of black currants, loganberries, raspberries, and the various blackberry varieties on the young wood of the previous year. Currants and gooseberries should really receive three prunings. In spring, when young growths come away, the shoots in the centre of the bushes should be rubbed off, and later, after the fruit has been picked, the branches should be thinned out a bit to allow light and air to get in to ripen the wood and secure the formation of flower buds. Branches which cross and rub one another and those 100 near the ground should be cut, but the leading ones should be left their full length until winter pruning. In the case of raspberries, loganberries, and the other members of that family, the old wood which has fruited should be cut out as soon as the fruit crop is picked. This is most important, for they not only crowd and shade the young growths on which the next year’s crop is to be borne, but they shelter pests of various kinds. In the case of raspberries, there are often more suckers than are required, and the weakest should be removed and about five or -six left. The selected shoots should be sprayed at once with arsenate of lead (1J lb of the paste to 50 gallons of water). It will not do any harm to spray the gooseberries and currants also, loganberries and other similar fruit vines, at the same time with arsenate of lead. The soil round fruit bushes should be weeded and lightly forked up, as it usually becomes hard and firm with the tramping during fruit picking. FLOWERS Continue to layer carnations and also take cuttings. Secure and plant out this month bulbs of the Christmas lily which, unlike most kinds, must be planted early in order that

it may root and make top growth before winter sets in. As this lily does not form stem roots, plant the bulbs deeper than an inch or so below the surface. A dusting of lime over the ground after the bulbs are planted will do much good. Give bulbs attention now. The early flowering sorts crocuses, daffodils, Spanish and English irises, hyacinths, tulips, snowdrops, erythroniums, and chionodoxa should be planted first. Sow seeds of antirrhinums now so that they will flower early next season. Flame, Golden Monarch, Vesuvius, and Orange King are popular •sorts.

Dahlias should be kept well cultivated. If show flowers are needed, dis-budding must be done. Canterbury bells should be planted now, and will be in flower by December. Sweet william should be planted now if a show is needed next season. Chrysanthemums grown in pots should now be well established after their final potting. It is not wise to give too much liquid manure from now on. It should be the aim of the growers to encourage the plants to develop well-ripened wood. Soft, pithy growth does not produce the best flowers. Liquid manure may be given at intervals, but if the wood shows signs of becoming sappy give a small application of sulphate of potash and superphosphate. This will harden both growth and foliage, which will then be less liable to attacks of mildew or rust. Should mildew be noticed dust with sulphur.

March is the time to sow sweet peas for a display early next season. Those who wish to have these early should prepare the ground now. Remember that well-rotted manure placed well deep down in the bottom of the trenches will keep the plants flowering until late in the season. A little bonedust or lime dusted through the soil at the time of preparation will also be helpful.