THE HOME GARDEIN

Te Awamutu Courier, Volume 60, Issue 4235, 24 January 1940, Page 10

THE HOME GARDEIN

WORK FOR THE WEEK. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Beet may be grown practically the whole year round, and should find a place in every garden. Sow the seeds in drills in a good friable soil. Have the drills about 15 inches apart, and cover the seeds with half an inch of soil. Thinning of the seedlings should be done as soon as they can be handled easily, leaving about eight inches between each plant. Weeds grow rapidly at this time of the year and soon reach the seeding stage.. Hoeing is the most satisfactory method of ridding the beds of these pests. \ If the leaves of your tomato plants turn brown and wilt, followed by the plants withering and dying, the plants have been attacked by “potato disease.” If'the disease is noticed before the whole plant is affected it may be checked by spraying with lime sulphur wash or Bordeaux mixture. Hydrangeas soon show the effect of dry, hot days ~if water is not given regularly. Radishes must be given generous supplies of water. They must be kept growing without check from the time to germination of the seed to maturity. Rich soil is essential. Side growths which are not needed on tdmato plants must be removed. This should be done with a knife. Regular tying of the stems should not be neglected, but care must be taken to cross the tying material between the stem and the stake, and- to have itloose enough that it readily slides up as the growth advances. Plants that have set fruit may be given weekly applications of liquid manure. Celery plants will require plenty of water and occasional doses of liquid manure. FLOWERS. If they need it, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips and other spring flowering bulbs may be lifted and stored. Do not keep these out of the soil too long. A short rest is all they need. There is nothing like the earth to keep bulbs. Leaving them in boxes until they dry out is bad for them. Stake and disbud carnations if superior flowers are desired. There is still time to plant such tender annuals as heliotropes, salvias, ageratums, zinnias and mosmeas. Sow seeds of lupins, Canterbury bells, hollyhocks, aquilegias, pyrethrums and sweet williams. These will bloom next sum-

mer. Sow pansies, violas and wallflowers.

These will bloom early next spring. Unless seed is required, cut all the old flower spikes off lupins. Thin out the spindly growths of dahlias, and keep the soil well cultivated. Dahlias and chrysanthemums may still be planted. Flag iris may be lifted, divided and replanted when the clumps have grown too large. Top dress with well decayed manure roses growing on light soil.

Hollyhocks should be sprayed with colloidal sulphur to prevent the rust disease which attacks the back of the foliage. Paeony roses and lily of the valley would be improved if they were given a few' applications of liquid manure at intervals of a week. CANKER IN TREES. Canker disease is caused by a distinct fungoid growth which affects trhes of all ages under certain conditions. The chief cause pf this disease , is lack of some important element in the soil. Trees growing in cold, wet, undrained ground, which holds stagnant water, are -often affected, and where the ground is shallow and the roots penetrate unsuitable subsoil the trees are very subject to disease. In the early stages of the disease scraping the diseased parts with a knife and dressing with Stockholm tar should effectively check it. Rose plants are sometimes attacked by this disease. Ugly swellings appear on the bark at the junction of the rose with the stock, and also on old, strong shoots. Beginning well above the wound make an incision through the bark with a sharp knife, cutting through it and carrying the fncisToh "below. The bark will open widely and fresh bark will soon appear, and a channel is formed for the flow of sap to the upper parts of the plant.

Parsnip canker does not affect the whole root of the vegetable, but. it causes soft, decayed patches round the crowns and down the sides. After the removal of the diseased crop the germs of the fungus remain in the soil, and if parsnips again occupy the same ground the disease is likely to appear. The soil should be well limed after the removal of the diseased crop.

REMOVING SEED PODS. During the hot weather plants mature more quickly than in winter and seed pods soon form. By removing all seed pods and cuttings down oid flowering ste.ms tfie flowering period of the plants is considerably lengthened and the tidy appearance of rhe garden is maintained. Delphiniums will give a second flowering in late summer or early autumn if, when the present flowers fade, the stems are cut down. It must be remembered, particularly during summer, that careful cultivation alone will not bring the desired result in the growth of plants if the ground is allowed to bake hard and crack. The-hoe must, be in regular use among all plants. Where it is not possible to use a hoe to loosen the surface soil a hand fork may be used. By this loosening of the surface soil a powdery mulch is obtained, which prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture and also keeps the soil around the roots of the plants cooler. A mulch of old manure spread out as a dressing commencing a few inches from the stems of the plants is very effective during summer, especially- on soils that are apt to dry out quickly.

After planting out young seedlings at this time provide some shade for them until they become established, otherwise even the hardiest will wilt during the middle of the day. Insect pests and plant diseases increase and spread rapidly during

stfmfner. A sharp watch* for them, and means taken to check them as spon as their appearance is noted.

CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE. VALUE OF LIME. Chrysanthemums are making good growth now, but the successful production of blooms depends to a certain extent on the treatment they receive now and until the buds form. The principal aim of the grower is the production of firm wood and strong foliage. It will be found that lime will assist greatly. When the plants are well established lime water may be given. This, in moderation, given in the early stages of growth will make stiff stems and healthy foliage. When the plants are well established cultivate them and mulch with old well rotted manure, but do not allow it to touch the stems.

On no account use forcing manure or fertilisers at this time. It is only when the plants have formed their buds that extra nourishment is necessary. The time of budding is during late January and early February, and liquid manure may then be applied and continued at intervals until the buds show distinctive colour and are about the size of a shilling. The main work at present, and until the buds come is the removal of side shoots, tying and cultivation of the soil. There is no difference in the cultural requirements of the plants whether grown for the production of garden decorative blooms or blooms for exhibition. The difference lies in the number of buds allowed to each stem. In the case of plants for exhibition purposes one bud is allowed to a stem, but foi' garden decoration two, three or even more are retained on one stem In the latter case two or three buds retained are better than more, for they open practically together and are then better for cutting.

As soon as the buds are large enough to handle disbudding must be considered. The amount of disbudding depends on whether the growers desire to have a few very large blooms or a quantity for garden decoration, but avoid selecting a bud with a “claw.” Most buds with a claw have a tendency to be malformed. Remember at the present stage that forcing the growth of the plants by liquid manuring or excessive watering will cause sappy growth and plenty of leaf, but the flowers will be of poor quality. If the surface soil is frequently stirred and kept loose the plants will not require quantities of water, but the amount of water and manure needed by the plants is governed to a great extent by the quality and texture of the soil. Light and porous soils will require more water than those of a heavy nature.