PRUNING GRAPE VINES

Sun (Auckland), Volume III, Issue 672, 25 May 1929, Page 28

PRUNING GRAPE VINES

i All grape vines, and especially those j that are to be forced for early crops, j need to be winter-pruned as soon ; after the leaves have fallen as pos- [ sible. If the pruning is long delayed, | the wounds made by the cutting-back of the growths will not have healed | over by the time the sap commences !to rise again, “bleeding”—which j means the loss of sap—will ensue, | growth will he retarded and the rods j weakened.

The usual method of .training established vines is to restrict them to single rods, all side-shoots being cut

back annually and the leading shoot of each rod slightly shortened. Another system of training Is sometimes practised, however—-the “extension” system. This permits of several main stems being formed, these being trained evenly over the roof-trellis and replaced with fresh growths as occasion demands. Although this latter is probably the most natural method, it is not always convenient when space is limited, and the single-rod method of growing is usually the better. Whichever method be adopted, the main rods of established vines should be pruned as follows: Cut back every side, or lateral shoot, made the previous summer, to two plump basal buds and shorten the leading young shoot of each rod to 18 Inches or slightly more or less, according to the space available at the top of the house. Care should be taken to make a clean cut-—using a very sharp knife, for the wood is tough—close to, and sloping slightly away from a plump bud. It simplifies the pruning operation if the rods are loosened from the wire trellis and allowed to hang low, so that the primer can work with ease from the ground, the rods being refastened to the wires when pruning and the subsequent cleaning is completed.