“STOP WATCH" TOURISTS

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 497, 29 October 1928, Page 11

“STOP WATCH" TOURISTS

MARATHON OF OLD MASTERS ART GALLERY VISITED If ever you wish to fiud a tourist of the “stop-watch*' variety who is lost ou the travel lanes of Europe, writes Sir Percival Phillips in the “Daily Mail.” take up your stand in a certain remote upper room in the Rijks Museum (.the National Gallery of Amsterdam) and wait for him to come to you. Sooner or later he will hove in sight, wearily plodding after the guide who will usher him into your presence with something like this: “And here we have the most famous of Rembrandt’s masterpieces, the ‘Night Watch.' ”

Amsterdam is an essential .unit of ; the most condensed itinerary, if its j particular slave is determined to pay j his hurried devotions to art. Rembrandt is the patron saint, and his “Night Watch” the innermost shrine. I have stood on three occasions outside the doors of the Rijks Museum, fascinated by the ceaseless inrush of j tourists of all nations. 1 have gone ; through the long corridors and the ; labyrinth of rooms on as many days j at the tail of one breathless procession after another. Watch in hand I have timed them from the turnstile, where the waiting queue frequently overflows into the street, despite the swift service of skilled attendants —past one collection after another and out again. I have left them, filled with silent admiration for their rapidity and endurance. and I have returned to admire again. m Olympic Games Spirit There was something of the Olympic I Games spirit pervading these particular excursions. Undoubtedly many of the events in the Stadium kept coming to mind as I watched successive parties follow each other over a winding track marked with 16th and 17th century paintings. At times the spectacle was like the heats of a flat race. At others there was no doubt whatever of it being a Marathon run over a course of Old Masters. On the last occasion five motorcoaches were just discharging their occupants at the entrance to the museum as I arrived. The three first parties plunged straight for the main gallery upstairs. I found myself wedged between the first two. The vanguard, led by a brisk little time-keeper who was also guide, kept getting away from me. It marched through the first nine rooms without a halt. This guide knew his business and intended to strike only at the high lights. In the tenth room he paused, named four large paintings with a wave of the hand, said “Beautiful work,” and went on in 15 seconds. The next three rooms were given half a minute each. As he remarked for the fourth time, “This way, please,” the second party closed up behind him, very fresh, and evidently good for a spurt down the last stretch to the “Night Watch.” “Rembrandt’s • mother, painted by himself,” said Guide No. 1. “Notice the wrinkles on the hands. Charming atmosphere.” Several old ladies lingered to examine the wrinkles closely. One observed that they “looked very real.” This delay caused her to be nearly swal- ; lowed up by the party behind.

“Rembrandt’s Mother,” said Guide No. 2, who wore pince-nez and a hard felt hat and was an adept in rounding up stragglers. “An unusual picture.

Beautiful atmosphere. Notice taa wrinkles on the hands. ’ The “Night Watch'’ at last. Three Lectures At One* There were two conducted parties (participants in an earlier heat) tM' readv contemplating it when the n#et competitors in the contest I describe entered the room. We heard the conflicting murmurs of three distinct lectures as the listeners pressed forward in a semi-circle. . They regarded the picture with interest,' many with reverence. The most hardened disbeliever in art ce-i'-not stand in front of the ‘ Ntg)n Watch” entirely unmoved. For son*-, it was of interest merely because tt was famous. For a few. merely because of its commercial value. Official time in contemplating the “Night Watch": Party N’o. 1. > minutes. Party No. 2. 7 minutes (three spent at a distance, tour close up, listening to the expert explanation of the guide). Party No. 3, minutes. And then —on their way. During one half-hour l spent in company of the “Night Watch persons passed through the room. I cannot end this account of my ! adventures of the “Stop Watch Tour-, j ists” without repeating the remark i made by a very tired woman at the i end of a long and exciting day spent iti t seeing the stock sights of Amsterdam. She was one of a party of five middle-aged women sitting in the lobby of a local hotel. They were discussing the day's adventures and their plans for next day. One of them said to another: ‘a think the Rijks Museum was the mcjsjt interesting place I’ve visited thts week.” Said the .other: “Yes, but it’s all so mixed up. I can never remember all the stuff. I only ! hope it comes back to me.” j Which is the farewell prayer of | many a lightning sightseer as he puts away- the stop-watch and boards boat for home.