The Judgment of Paris

Sun (Auckland), Volume 1, Issue 86, 2 July 1927, Page 21

The Judgment of Paris

Decrees From the Salons

Written for THE SUN THE clarion call o:f Spring has resounded throughout the luxurious ateliers of France, and quick in response to its imperious demands came a host of wonderful Paris openings when all the foremost designers showed their individual interpretations of the mode for Spring, 1927. Madame and Mademoiselle would seem this season to have been served with a wealth of chic apparel such as never was seen before.

JN the collection of Worth there are attractive details and ornamentaItion not seen at other houses ... distinctive shades of fashionable 'WORTH colours particularly Worth blue and the beautiful fabrics of Spring. The silhouette based on the tightly swathed hip-line, and an up-in-the-front movement, gives an impression of sophistication to both day and evening dresses from Worth. TO LACK is a Paquin favourite, mostly for day gowns. The smartest models appeared to be those of marocain, with added specially PAQUIN designed gold jewellery. The Paquin display of evening gowns distinguished itself by restraint, and a laudable absence of spangles and the more discreet use of dazzling tubes and rhinestones. White was also used for many beautiful Paquin spring models.

rpHE Patou collection was divided X into two sections, sports clothes on’ the one hand, town and evening dresses on the other. The PATOU sports clothes look as if designed for Teal use, their novel features being merely matters of detail, a scarf well tied and a suitable hat. Sweaters of chiffon and lawn, worn over dark satfcn skirts, are a delightful original feature.

INTERESTING is PoireZ-’s interpreta--1 tion of modern sports .clothes. A white sweater, for example, made of a dull spangled material, is emPOIHET broidered in black, while a suit of a. metallic texture ! resembling tweed h/ts large calf-skin pockets on each side.. Fringes are used by Poiret in great profusion on dresses | for every possible occasion, and are made particularly /chic.

LELONG showed black as the outstanding feature of his collection of evening gowns. It appeared transparent and unadornLELONG ed and again it was relieved with crystal beads and silver . . . with here a striking combination with a glistening white. Other colours may appear. . . warm our hearts . . . match our ayes. . . but they disappear . . . black remains . . . always becoming, always distinguished when used as Lelong suggests. G A . Y . and variegated colours give a bright touch of fantasy to Chantars clothes, which are, as usual, simplicity itself. .Contrasts CHANTAL are the basis of this collection . . . contrasts in colours . . . contrasts in fabrics. Like something out of the world of Peter Pan or Pierrot are a series of diaphonous capes composed of layer upon layer of georgette each in a different shade. JN her spring collection Madeleine Vionnet, again proved to the world how aloof she stands from any outward influence. It is difficult VIONNET to call the silhouette she originates a straight one for it is so supple. Tiers, new variations of the rounded petal, sashes and scarfs are incorporated into her citations with a cunning that is all her own.

with her delightful creative imagination, has perhaps a greater appreciation of the picturesque in whatever age, country or LANVIN clime this charming quality is to he found. This season her flair for the exquisite and the fanciful is expressed in bouffant Robes cle Style, frocks of taffeta, rich brocades and airy organdies that one might wear to fairies’ garden parties. 'J'HE tendency of all ensembles at Chanel’s is to have them harmonize, more so than the accentuating of the discordant note. CHANEL Colouring here comprised all nuances of red, a lovely Madonna blue, and an unexpected note produced by one or two vivid green gowns. Black is of course a fundamental feature, and so is beige, the colour Mademoiselle Chanel invented. r £'HE Premet solhouette is one that we have had through the winter tranposed into terms of spring with added and novel details eonPREMET dueive to Parisian chic. Mastic and "beige and a good deal of gray are used in Premet tailleurs, which invariably, have a bit of coloured grosgrain ribbon passed through the buttonhole of the left coat lapel. New are - his batiked skins in different colours, smartly used for collars and trimmings.

Drecoll's were shown surprising

ensembles in delicate shades we have already known combined with others w’o had scarcely DRECOLL dreamed of. In all the Drecoll news we scanned we read ol coats that differed from the gowns that accompanied them, in novel treatments of colour that must have required infinite tact and a flue judgment of values to assemble, but that when completed made hitherto smart-seeming ensembles appear quite demode. BOULANGER has made an important story of the sports; clothes that are essentially feminine,! and most of her , BOULANGER skirts show innova-; tions. Some are shorter in front . . . slightly lifted, scalloped or have groups of peculiar pleats. In every case, however, they showed a carefully studied, slender hipline. A novelty among her collection was a striking knee-length cape of silver and gold brocaded beige kasha. —HUIA MASE. ‘