Waiting for the Train.

Stratford Evening Post, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 55, 6 March 1914, Page 5

Waiting for the Train.

STRATFORD'S HINTERLAND

ON THE ROUTE OF THE STRAT-FORD-OKAHUKURA RAILWAY.

A SPLENDID TOURIST TRIP.

THROUGH THE TAHGARAKAU GORGE TO OH UR A.

It is a far cry from a vote on the Estimates to tiie whistle o’ a train! Aiid the settlers in the hinterland of Taranaki know this only too well, some indeed to their sorrow'. The connecting link between the Main Trunk railway and the West Coast of the North Island was commenced in 1901, the Hon. Hall-Jones turning the first sod at Stratford on 28tJi March, so that with nearly thirteen years left behind, the lino has as its present terminus the township of Whangamoraona (better known, however, in tlie abbreviated form of Whanga), wnich is distant from the junction witii the Wanganui-New Plymouth at Stratford some forty miles. At the past rate of progress, then, the reader wall conclude that the remaining sixty miles to the Main Trunk will not be finished much inside a quarter of a century, but herein ho reckons without his host—that is, the man out on the land in the Ohura, who welcomes one with the glad eye and is loth to let go his firm grip of the hand when the time for leave-taking comes round. There will he found plucky men and women, who have carved out homes for themselves and their families out of the very heart of the bush, already discussing the merits of the respective routes for the produce of their land: whether their best n\arket will be in Auckland, or, when the deep-sea liner berths at the Breakwater at New Plymouth, whether Taranaki will be most popular. Such discussion is outside the province of this article, of course, and is mentioned merely to point out bow near is the time when the two lines will be linked up, and when tin; way-back settler will come into his own. In this connection, with an eye to the main chance, Taranaki organised two parties of business men, who have gone out and spoken with the settlers there, and have eaten with them and partaken of hospitality, and have spied out the land for themselves. The New Plymouth and Stratford Chambers of Commerce recently organised the trips, the latter’s representatives having gone out a I'ovtv.ig'd ago, and of wiiom the writer was fortunate enough to he a member. Making a Start. Leaving Stratford on Thursday even - ing by the train, Whanga was reached just after ten o’clock. Although the whole distance is travelled by train, die last stage of the journey, from Pohokura to Whanga, a distance of five miles, lias not yet been handed over to tiie Railway Department, being still under the management of the Public Works Department, and “change trains” was ordered at Pohokura. There is now nothing to complain of in the accommodation provided for passengers on this stage, as a clean, well-lighted and comfortable carriage is attached to (he P.W.I). engine. Whanga! Dear Old Whanga! Or, as hundreds of the hard, wea-ther-beaten navvies on the old construction works must sometimes deeply sigh—Old Dear Whanga 1 In its youth Whanga was a terror to the countryside, if the pub could speak, what eerie tales it could tell of orgies by night and blind gropings for day." upon the spree, when Tragedy stalked close upon their heels. It was counted as nothing worth making a fus about that four fights were in progress on the street in front of the pub on Sunday afternoon, the combatants being stripped to the huff. There was no giving up until one side was hors do combat ; and the hackers of the winner went inside to “wet it” all round and then look for the wnshtub. It was a bloody sight at times! In cob 1 blood the visitor now hears of No. .13, a room into which the indiscriminate drunk was tossed until he came through the “dingbats” to a state ol comparative rationality. There was no No. 13 room, by the way ; it was so designated from the fact that it was not full until thirteen had piled themselves one upon another! To sink comfortably down into a sea of mud on the main street after being tossed out as, a nuisance at the so-called closing time, and to rise with the dawn and reach out for the handle of the bar door was a common occurrence. It is said that an ox-publican on leaving for fresh pastures aml now navvies

green sold tlse stork of -empty bottles winch lie had stroked up behind the nub for £l5O. Seems a bit of a tall yarn, but the old hands give it out for gospel. With bated breath the newcomer listens to the story of the burning of the pub, and is relieved to hear

no lives were lost—at least the versatile chronicler believes so! To-day Wbanga is grown up, and is much serious with herself; but she still clings with both bands to the glory that has departed from her. A story is related of the cemetery which shows up in. a lurid light the dear dead days. !t was a real boast that no one who bad been buried there bad died other than a violent death, ugh! But there were kind hearts beneath the rough exterior of this cosmopolitan crowd, and fine headstones'mark the last resting places of sonic of those who wont, down in 'the grim battle of life Seen in the bright sunshine of Friday morning, with the pub rebuilt and conducted in modern the new Tost Office and dwelling house to which the Postmaster, Mr D L. Hatton brought Ids wife and family from Dunedin—with a handsome structure opposite as the Bank of Australasia—splendidly accoutred tennis courts—big level, .dompin grounds—a

■/'boo! at. whirh over SO pupils attend daily—and brand-new station buildings waiting for the finishing touches on tbe permanent way—under such conditions, surely, there is nothing Wlianga will want for when the train arrives—except good roads. But as the whole countryside curses the P.W.T). in accents neither low nor light over the mess they made of the roads through not putting down tramlines mi commencing the construction works, Wlianga is content to suffer in unison witli her neighbours,

On the Sox Seat of the Coach. This matter of tramlines is a prominent feature of the journey for miles along the road after leaving Wlianga. Two or three bridges are in course of construction—in fact are nearly completed—within the four miles separating the next station, Koburatahi, from the engine, and in about twelve months through communication should ha available for the residents of this district. The station buildings are

rapidly assuming definite shape, and the yards are so far advanced as to show that a large amount of accommodation will he set made for the traffic here. Four miles further on the tramline' ends at Hurimoana, and the Tahora tunnel works are to he seen away down in the valley. Hurimoana .8 famous as an old Maori stronghold luring the war, and is named after the historic hill of the same name near ay. It is like the wave of a rolling sea, and, was so-called by reason of the Maoris likening their forces to the onward, rolling, irresistible march of a strong billow. Thus the name;. Huri, to turn over; mo-ana, a rolling wave of the sea. From the hill a good ■dew is obtained of Tongariro and Ruapehu Mountains away to the eastward. Proceeding for seven miles past Tahora and the Mangapapa Saddle, The Tangarakau Gorge is Reached. This big beauty spot is one which is bound to become more valuable as a tourist drive iu each succeeding yeaiv It is somewhat alarming to the* traveller, after viewing the. glory of the Gorge to heat that the original survey for the railway was through the Jorge. How in all that’s beautiful anyone could have had tile heart tz\ destroy, or even allow to be soiled, this gem of Nature’s handiwork passeth the mind of this scriuodo understand. And this, too, apart troitt the sngineering difficulties to be contended with through the whole length of the Gorge. Imagine eight miles of forestclad hills hundreds of feet in height, a track just wide enough for the coach, sheer bluffs rising perpendicularly, and away down in.places fifty feet beiow, the Tangarakau river wending its nrtuous way to join forces with the V angauui. Shakespeare has truly said “Beauty blemished once, for ever’s lost.” Such rimu, such pikitea, such wealth of fern and foliage is a.-feast of beauty %hiclv it is* tb will remain as a joy for ever.’ The call of the bush does not come to everyone, hut even the most materialistic of .neii must admit the grandeur and in•piring sentiment associated with the Gorge. Wild pigeons coo from tree to tree and noiselessly wing their fight, ay in ;olic of the bird life of the jusn. Wild pigs scamper through tiie underwood and cross the track or rush along in front of the coach, •squealing and alarmed until forded to dash aside into the fern. The perpeetive h cinematographic; constanfy changing, and at the end of the sigh I -mile drive one could wish the ai.rney was only commencing. Forti.lately, it will be admitted, a deviajon of the route of the railway has men arranged for, which will also

ojel the difficulties and dangers of the

forge, and will further open out splendid pastoral country in the Eaecohau Valley, at the head of which is rokarimu, one of the best in the sheep rind district.

Half-way through the Gorge, the party were met by Mrs Moore (wife of Vlr Tom Moore, the genial proprietor )f the splendidly-equipped coach service which is every day adding :o ti;e popularity of the trip) who had prepared a substantial and tasty repast. The invigorating atmosphere of the Gorge is a wonderful appetiser, md Mrs Moore’s kindness was thornighly appreciated. Although on this iccasion special preparations had been made for the party, it is undersood that Mr Moore intends building a new half-way house, at which every attention will be paid to the wants of travellers. Indeed, some of the timber is •m the ground already, and it is only through a little nnforseen difficulty in connection with the matter of land transfer that the work has not been v put in hand before. The Coal Msasurcs. While at the meal table, the party were struck with the fact that the

range, in the room was throwing out great heat from a coal lire, and it was learned that not a hundred yards from the house on the hank of the Tanganikau at our feet a splendid seam of coal was in sight. This proved to bo quite correct and specimens were taken from the outcrop for display at home is additional evidence.of the valuable property tiie Gorge will he to the country. The coal is clean, bright, heavy and brittle, and when iho opportunity for development of the measures and easy carriage of the output becomes available it will mean much to a people who, although living in the hush and whose daily view is dotted with knarled wood stumps, complain that they have to pay increasingly for fuel for the house. This

phase of hush life was driven home to the writer when the party were out of the Gorge, and had arrived at Tatu, some'eight miles from the objective, viz, the Ohura. A lady who joined the coach here was the postmistress at Ohura—one who'should know the district’s wants if anyone does. Mrs Hay said they were looking forward to the day when the coal measures about the Ohura would he opened up, as they would be able to get a load for £2 115 s nor ton instead of having to pay £3 for what was very often not nearly a regulation cord of wood. These sentiments were heard very often during the visit to the district. They apply also in a more or less acute form to many of the towns on the main line on this side of the Island, ?.n-l to which the opening of a mine would prove of inestimable benefit.

A Grave by the Wayside. The most beautiful scene in the Gorge is at the confluence of the Manga pa pa and Taugarakau streams. The spot is more beautiful than any other, because it is sacred to the memory of a pioneer—one who laid down his life in the service of his young country when engaged in the work of shaping its future steps. “.John Morgan, Surveyor. Died fh-d March, There is no flourish on the simple wooden cross on which those words are east, and plain concrete posts support a railing of galvanised iron piping. It is only about two feet high, but a rose-tree, planted by the Stratford troop of Boy Scouts who have taken a loving interest in the spot, clings to the foot of Uncross, and thus is formed as fine a

monument as could bo found to mark the grave of any hero. The story of “John Morgan, surveyor,” briefly, is that ho was taken ill suddenly, owing, it is said, to having eaten unripe apples; that his comrade struck out through the hush to try and reach Waitara and obtain medicine for him, but that he got bushed and had to make his way back to the tent. Nothing could be done. Morgan was buried in his tracks on the site of his last camp, below' which the two streams join together and roll on under tho bridge. Round About the Ohura. Commencing at about Tatu, ‘ the land opens out; and the merits of the country as a sheep or dairy centre whre keenly discussed. The sheepman reckoned he had scored heavily as the coach hove in sight \of a heavily-laden waggon drawn by twelve bullocks, which had come from Tokarimu, the district that, it was learned, is yearly, sending an increasing amount of wopl to market. By the courtesy of the Ohura Association, the party were able to view a large clump of country on Saturday, the day following their arrival at tlio township of Ohura (formerly know'll as Mangaroa). - Leaving Ohura in the morning, in tw'o of Mr Moore’s coaches pvliich were placed at the disposal of the party, a most enjoyable drive resulted in the Xilio Xiho and Matiere districts being inspected. There is rather keen rivalry between the Ohura and Matiere people as to the prospective capital of the district, and the party were anxious to see one of the latest “mushroom” townships on the route of the railway. Eleven miles of really good road separate the twm places, and Xiho Xiho, which was inspected en route, is about hallway. A bullock waggon w r as stuck on the bridge just at the township and blocked the coaches, and the assistance of a “young” member of the party had to be given before the stubborn brutes would pull all together and clear the road. The trouble was that the bridge was too narrow in which to work such an erraticteam as a bullock waggon. This was found to be a common fault with a number of bridges hereabouts. On crossing the bridge, the Xiho Xiho dairy factory strikes the eye. It is a ‘‘white* elephant” in a smiling and progressive dairy district, which is rich in river flats" and ploughahlo ridges and Whose hilltops make ideal sheep country. The factory is nowclosed down. The history of the concern is a sorry one from the suppliers’ point of view', and is one of those unaccountable blunders which s p often hit a settlement in the eye in its infancy and help o blight its career. The settlors have to pack their cream to Matiere. It was no uncommon sight to see pack-horses with tins of cream slung on their backs and a man on horseback driving them to the factory. The prospects of the district appear so bright, however, that no doubt was left in the minds of the party but that very shortly this trouble will disappear. The place cannot stand still under the circumstances. Looking Forward!

Matiere is sixteen miles from the Main Trunk lino, and the junction is to he at Okaluikura, the route travelled having been in a north-

easterly direction. The country is rather more open than that immediately adjacent to Olnira. and gives the appearance of being heavier in the soil, though on the whole there is not a great deal of difference in their prospects. The. great hope of the residents here is that the construction of the Okahuknra tunnel will he through in the course of twelve months for the carriage of material and goods. Indeed, this state of affairs has been promised, it is said, by the authorities. The tunnel is not far from the junction, but is a big undertaking. it will he 90 chains in length, and to expedite the work, the contractor has sunk a shaft about half way over the hill and is working, four faces at once. Construction work on the permanent wav on each side of the tunnel is being pushed on, and little time will he lost in connecting up once the tunnel has been pierced. Tn consideration of the fact that big contracts bad just been let for burning papa, one at Matiere and the other near the tunnel. Matiere is beginning to prick up its ears and call itscli ■tames. Tt is n settlement of small farmers, with farms of 100 to lot) acres, all occupied and most ol the settlers engaged in the dairying industry. The factory has over 00 suppliers and has an output of four tons a week. Two sawmills are going in the district, and are full up with orders. The progress of the place is remarkable. Tt lias been 'settled only for ten or eleven years, while there was nothing of a township four years ago. A moving iaetor in this connection was Mr (■. Phillips, whose progressive spirit has simply lifted the district along. He has erected a row of shops and built an up-to-date hotel-—“the Arcadia” no loss—which is equal to anything of its kind to he found in the bigger cities. 'Die bouse has .twenty-nine rooms, and is fitted with all modern conveniences, hut even now Is too small for the requirements of the district, and a number of the hoarders are accommodated in tents. The route of the railway lies along the main street o f the township for some distance, and then sweeps round up the valley before reaching Hie hotel. * The land about this district runs in /to anything from £S or €!) to fl'l or Cll per acre. An instance was mentioned of a man who “squckH” about being asked to pay Clot) for I Til acres in the dnvs of the early settlement of the district, and now !he is asking up to £2O an acre. This Jis, of course, an exception, but it

shows how valuable some of the country has become in the space of a lew years only. Nearing tha Tonne!. The road leaving Matiero anti on to the tunnel is a good one, being partly constructed of burnt papa, parly of' shell-rock, and partly of pumice. Pumice, unlike most other material used in road construction, improves, with the wet, so that it will he understood this class of load is much in favor with the settlers. The scenery is also very beautiful through here. To provide bricks for lining the tunnel, the Government have established a brickworks, and

they are now in full swing. It was unofficially stated that at least 400 men are employed on the tunnel, and the impression conveyed is that the work is being pushed on more rapidly than was anticipated at the other end of the line. Among those employed on these consu action-. works are said to he quite a number of old '■Vaihi miners, who, with their famifieSj are living on the line of route. Then- style of tent is somewhat different from the usual squat-on-tiie-ground of the average bushman or navvy. Tents are built three or four feet from the ground and are higher, giving more room, and, altogether, they appear to bo much more comfortable. Wiih Ohura’s Compliments.

On Saturday evening at Mr H. 1* Aves’ boarding house in Ohara

complimentary dinner was given to the members of the party, after which a number of toasts were honored. There - was a gathering of over thirty, and the proceedings were presided over by Mr W. Sandison, chairman of the Ohura County Council, who extended a hearty welcome to the visitors. Mr J. B. Richards, president of the’ Chamber of Commerce. replied to the toast of “The Visitors,” making special reference to the necessity for hotter means of communication as well as for a better understanding between Ohura and the Taranaki end of the line, and promising to assist in every way possible in urging that the construction of the line he pushed on not only from the Stratford end hut also from Okalmknra. “Value received,” said Mr Richards, “is the basis of all business, and I am quite sure that if vou caii deal suitably with Taranaki you will do so; if not. you will go somewhere else.” Mr rtf chords extended an invitation to the Ohura settlers to make a return trip to Taranaki. and they would endeavor to repay them for the great hospitality shown to the visitors that day. It is understood that this trip will shortly ho an accomplished fact. Mr A. Hewitt, secretary of the Chamber, who is not a* stranger to ihe district, referred with pleasure lo the advancement that had been made hv the settlors since his last visit, and to the bright prospects of the country which he had had the pleasure of driving through. Mr W. V. Kirkwood, Mayor ol Stratford, in referring to railways, said there should he no dog-in-the-manger spirit about them; he had always" maintained that the railway should he pushed on to completion at file earliest opportunity. He also referred to the community of interest winch existed between the settlers of the Ohura and Taranaki.

Abouffhe Township. in spite of drawbacks, the Ohnra backblocker is a happy man—or woman. Ohnra boasts very fine tennis courts, and cricket is not forgotten. Sunday is the popular day for cricket contests, and on that day at M a tie re all rivalry was centred in a game. It is said that there is g debating society, but tjie only opportunity ot judging of the success of this institution was at an impromptu smoke concert, and now opinions are divided as "to whether the spirit of the society or sundry spirits moved to much eloquence! Looking round tin) township it was noticeable that a new church is being built for the Homan Catholics of the district, while it is stated that the Wesleyans are also speaking of building. A very line post office with ...dwelling attached should be large enough to. meet the requirements qf the district for years. There are a couple of banking: institutions represented. Another prominent business place is the beadquarters of the livery and bait stables of Mr Tom Moore, who some days has as many as twenty-nine horses on the road. The party are much indebted to Mr Moore for the splendid service provided, while the district is also quite cognisant of the value of his pioneering efforts. “What is home without a paper i” Ohmaitos have solved the question by having their own sheet. it is a double-demy styled “The Ohura Advocate,” and is produced under the joint management of* Messrs. Thompson and Wanklin. The “Advocate come off tlu* cylinder hot for i' i ida \. and sells around the district in ever increasing weekly numbers. M ith Olliers, Idle paper suffers from want of mail and road communication.

The Reading Problem. Speaking of roads, the great question of this district is bow to make roads. In other districts near the, main arterial roads the trouble is to make them so that they will endure the terrible strain „of the motor. Ohnra solves the problem of no metal by burning papa. Papa is a suit clayey formation, slatoy blue in color. which is strikingly prominent in cuttings on the road side. This is dug out and burnt: that is, layers 'of timber and papa are arranged alternately in heaps, and alter the burning the papa, is left in the form of hard rock' and of the color and nature of the ordinary brick. This j; broken up and spread on the roads. Though it is for a time very rough for traffic, it binds gradually and makes a very line surface. Some roads which had been down live years wore almost perfect for dm ing over, bet it is said the material will not stand very heavy traflic. The cost of burnt papa is rather heavy, as will be understood when it is mentioned that the very best rinm is required for the process, and the labor involved is long and laborious. However, no better method seems to have been found as yet, and the only real difficult v is, of ‘course, the expense.

Odds and Ends. Tlk> possibilities of the country tor fruit-growing wore continually being remarked upon. Orchards nestle pleifsantly in the sunny spots elose to almost every honic. Apples appeared to thrive well, and plums won' in abundance, and with an outlet for the produce there must be a good deal of business in this line in the future.

The Mayor of Stratford i« a keen camera-man, and he secured a number of plates showing points of in-

terest along tlu> route, w limb it is expected will shortly appear in the illustrated press in various parts oi the Dominion.

To sum up. it can he stated that there are miles of formation and heavy work to be done before Ohura is connected with fins end, and at the earliest possible there can be no hope of this within at least six years. Ohura will, of course, be connected with the Main Trunk quite easily, it is considered, in two years’ time, and with the distance decreasing each year between them and the railway at this end, the settlers there will not be badly off. Once the railway is in, there is no saying how rapidly the district will assert itsei! as a. dairy district and wool-producer. ruder the favorable conditions in which the country was viewed, it is quite safe to say that a motor ear could drive right through from Stratford while the roads are in the present condition; From the tourist

point of view the scenery is diversifying and interesting from the mo-

ment Stratford is left m the train until the Main Trunk is readied by coach, and as a tourist itinerary a visit to Mount, Egmout. the trio through to the Main Trunk and a voyage down the Wanganui River will take a lot of beating in the Dominion, while it is undoubted that no similar holiday could be selected anywhere. C’.fj.G.