THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 25358, 9 May 1944, Page 6

THE GARDEN

TREES IN THE GARDEN By RIWHI Readers of this column have frequently been advised against the planting of large trees within restricted areas. Most of our town sections are quite unequal to the task of accommodating even one large tree, and if the tree is planted and does grow to maturity it is most unfair to the neighbour on the south side. Nevertheless, wherever really adequate space is available trees should be grown in every garden, and according to its extent kinds may be selected that will not overgrow any given space. In country districts every garden should be well furnished with trees, both evergreen and deciduous. It must be remembered in coastal areas, however, that most deciduous trees require complete shelter from sea winds with their salt content.

Where the area is somewhat restricted, or where it is desired not to throw too wide a shade, rowan, laburnum, maple, alder and silver birch can. be planted. These will grow to a height of 20 to 30 feet; they are all beautiful trees, each with its own special characteristics. The first three should be grown on well-drained, sunny sites. The alder needs ampfe moisture, and the birch is tolerant of a wide range of conditions. Suitable conifers would include juniper, yews and retinosporas. Where there is ample space golden ash, scarlet oak, beech, lime, poplar, cedars, and larch can be grown. All are most attractive large trees; the lime is at its best when in flower at the New Year; the scarlet oak, the beech and the larch when tinted with autumn; the golden ash when bare at mid-winter There remain, of course, the English oak, the elm, the ash, the sycamore and numbers of conifers such as Wellingtonia and Cupressus lawsoniana. There is a niche in every large garden where any of these and indeed many others can be planted.

PLANTING TREES The planting season for putting in the trees mentioned is at hand and nothing but the very best is good enough for plants that will remain in the one site for maybe hundreds of years. So many young trees badly planted remain dwarfed and poor; often they have been put into holes which hold water every time heavy rain falls, or perhaps cold clay has been brought up to the surface—a most discouraging medium for the development of tender young roots. When preparing for planting dig out a large hole and go deep, but see that provision is made so that the hole will never act as a container for water. Then return sub-soil mixed well with old rotted material; enrich well the area below where the roots will lie and keep an admixture of old mild compost for the outer circumference of the hole on a level with the roots. Always obtain good mellow soil for placing around ,the roots themselves unless the soil on the site itself is kindly and warm. The actual planting itself should be carried out when the soil is reasonably dry. Put in the plant at the same depth to which it was planted in the nursery, placing the strongest roots towards the direction of the prevailing wind. See that the soil is really firm over the whole rooting surface and the plant is erect and firmly staked if this seems necessary. The stake should be driven in before the tree is planted. Given such care casualties should be rare indeed and all kinds should make rapid growth even during the first season. The trees as they come from the nursery are young and vigorous; if they receive a severe setback they take a long time to recover. It is therefore imperative that they should have skilful and careful handling.