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THE GARDEN

HEDGES

By

RIWHI.

The present is a good time for both the renovation and the planting of hedges. Few amateurs seem to realize the necessity for care and attention to hedges apart from keeping them neatly trimmed. Most hedge plants take a great deal from the soil, which in the course of years becomes poor. As a result bare and dead patches appear and the hedge becomes uneven. To -put matters right it is necessary to enrich and cultivate the soil on either side and to remove tufts of cocksfoot, catsear and browntop which will prevent moisture from reaching the rooting systems. It is quite possible to go further with such hedges and rejuvenate them altogether by cutting away half their height or by splitting them. Do not do both at once and do neither in winter. Autumn and spring are the times to do such work. Where a hedge is too impoverished it may pay to root it out altogether and replace with young plants. In planting a new hedge the cultivation should be deep and thorough and the soil should be well settled before the actual planting is carried out. Enrich the soil, especially in the lower spits, and wherever possible allow it to weather well. Plants should be put in with the greatest of care, each one having its roots well spread and being made really firm in the soil. Always plant to the same depth as in the nursery. After planting cut back to half the height of the plants as they came from the nursery. Subsequent care, such as hoeing and topdressing with compost, is as important as care in the original planting. Small growing hedge plants may be planted a foot apart; others may be spaced at anything from 15 to 24 inches. VARIETIES TO GROW Gardeners ordering now will get the best quality nursery stock. Varieties suggested for use in Southland are: — For General Purposes—White Escallonia, Red Escallonia (do not plant these further inland than Dipton), Olearia Forsterii, Privet (inland), Holly and Laurel. Where there is ample space Cupressus macrocarpa and C. lawsoniana are suitable. The last-named, however, is slow growing and should not be planted too near the sea coast. Lombardy poplars are also useful. Decorative Hedges.—Berberis and Cotoneaster varieties, Laurestina, flowering currant, golden privet (most attractive), Eurybia stellata and Olearia traversii, red Manuka and Ramarama bullata). Small Hedges.—Lonicera nitida (away from the sea), veronicas and berberis. Native plants not often used but making splendid hedges include Olearia traversii (excellent on sea coast areas, being the Chatham Island akeake), Olearia macrodonta (similar to native holly but having broader leaves), ribbonwoods (not including the mountain ribbonwood) and rata (growth is slow). Nearly all of the above can be grown ‘easily from cuttings, which should be

put in now in a well-rdrained light soil. Plant in lengths nine inches to 12 inches, two-thirds of the cutting being below the surface. See that every cutting is really firm in the soil. Cuttings should be made of well-ripened wood of the present season’s growth. AUTUMN RUBBISH As digging proceeds in areas vacated by potatoes and summer crops use all’ the disease-free rubbish for building up further compost heaps. You cannot have too many in these days when even some of the organic artificials are in short supply. Always remember that if animal manures can be laid down in thin layers in the compost heap along with the soil and vegetable material the value of the compost is enhanced. Further, seaweed should always be utilized where it is available.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ST19440411.2.70

Bibliographic details

Southland Times, Issue 25335, 11 April 1944, Page 6

Word Count
594

THE GARDEN Southland Times, Issue 25335, 11 April 1944, Page 6

THE GARDEN Southland Times, Issue 25335, 11 April 1944, Page 6