WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24421, 29 April 1941, Page 10

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

RIWHI

OF TOPICAL INTEREST HEDGES As planting of hedges is best done during the. next four weeks preparations should be well in hand. Deep digging is absolutely essential and at least one bucketful of manure or compost should be incorporated with each yard run of digging. Dig to a width of three feet. The soil should be firm before planting is carried out. Put in each plant with the greatest of care to a depth not exceeding that to which it was planted in the nursery. See that roots are spread out naturally and that the plants are really firm when the operation is complete. Readers ordering now will get the pick of nursery stocks. Varieties suggested for use in Southland include the following: For general purpose: White Escallonia, Red Escallonia, Olearia Forsterii, Privet, holly and laurel. Where there is ample space Cupressus Macrocarpa and Cupressus Lawsoniana are suitable. The last-named, however, is slow growing and should not be planted too near the sea coast. Lombardy poplars will also be found useful. Decorative hedges: Berberis and cotoneastee varieties, Laurestina, flowering currant, golden privet, Eurybia Stellata and Olearia Traversii, Red manuka and Ramarama (Myrtus Bullata). Small hedges: Lonicera nitida, veronicas and berberis.

Native plants not often used, but making splendid hedges, include Olearia Traversii (excellent on sea coast areas, being the Chatham Island Akeake), Olearia Macrodonta (similar to native holly, but having broader leaves), ribbon woods (not including the mountain ribbon wood) and rata (growth is slow). Small-growing hedges may be planted as close as one foot apart while larger types will be spaced at from 18 inches to two feet apart. Subsequent care is quite as important as proper planting. Surface cultivation is always advisable, as are periodical additions of compost. The plants should be cut hard back after planting.

PLANTING LILIES Late autumn is a good time for planting lilies, such as Lilium Regale, L. candidum, L. auratum and L. Henryii. In a mild winter the bulbs will slowly but surely form roots and then in early spring they are established and ready to grow strongly into good flowering specimens. Besides, if planting is deferred, the bulbs lose much of their vitality. All of the lilies mentioned will do well in a good garden loam. None of them will tolerate a heavy retentive clay. While they enjoy ample supplies of moisture they also demand perfect drainage. Leaf mould, gritty sand and wood ash are all appreciated. Lilium Regale likes lime, some of the others are indifferent, but L. Auratum will not thrive where the soil has been limed. It prefers conditions similar to those that suit rhododendrons. AUTUMN RUBBISH During autumn the garden yields up a superabundance of rubbish until disposal becomes a problem. All leaves that are not too fibrous and hard should be used to form leaf mould. They should be packed into a firm heap in some out of the way corner. Wire netting is useful as a surround to prevent them from blowing about. All plants pulled from flower beds and all clean refuse from the vegetable garden should be composted. Layers of rubbish intermixed with layers o£ gritty sand and garden soil will gradually break down into a most valuable compost. All disease and pest ridden rubbish as well as all woody material should be burned. If there is a preponderance of sappy material there may be difficulty in getting the fire going. In such cases it is better to burn in a drum starting a fire with kindling and then adding inflammable material, such as some old sacks soaked in old car oil. Once this is well alight it will dry out and burn any rubbish at all. The ash should be kept dry and used as a garden fertilizer. Its fertilizing contents may be as high as 7 per cent, potash, 2.5 per cent, phosphoric acid and 25 per cent. lime. LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY Many people have the idea that lily-of-the-valley does best in shade. This is far from being the truth. It is only the stubborn hardiness of the plant which enables it to send up flowers where other plants fail from lack of sunlight or starvation. Provided the soil is good a partiallyshaded site will serve, but to see lily-of-the-valley at its best with thick clustered spikes of large glistening bells an open situation is needed. In good soil the underground roots are eager travellers'! so that it is necessary to set up the bed where it will not readily encroach on other plants. A somewhat heavy soil with a good admixture of gritty sand and leaf mould, deeply dug to ensure efficient drainage will give the best results. The soil must be kept moist throughout the season. Do not use manure as it will produce leaf without flower. Plant the roots in rows four inches apart and four inches deep, keeping the crowns just below the surface. A good soaking of water will help to settle the soil about the roots and a topdressing of leaf mould will complete the task of planting. Established beds should be remade every five years and topdressed with leaf mould or compost every winter. Non flowering is usually due to shade, overcrowding or consolidation of a heavy soil. In the last case a fork should be inserted here and there in the bed and levered up to loosen the hard packed soil. In cases of overcrowding beds should be replanted although it is sometimes possible to thin out the chizomes with a garden trowel. The best artificial fertilizer for use with lily-of-the-valley is blood and bone applied at the rate of one ounce to the square yard. Soot water is valuable if I applied as the flowers are developing. RASPBERRIES Raspberries love a deep rich soil, and preparatory woi;k for planting should include double digging and the addition of liberal quantities of welldecayed manure, especially in the second spit. A surface dressing of bonemeal at the rate of two ounces to the square yard will be most beneficial. Rows should be kept five feet apart and the plants at least 2ft 6in in the rows. The canes may be tied to wires or may be grown independently. As soon as they are planted they should be cut back to within four or five inches of the ground. This will ensure proper establishment and good growth during-the first season. Recommended varieties are Lloyd George, Superlative and Fillbasket. A FRAME FOR WINTER Where possible a cold frame should be used for vegetable culture during winter. Lettuce may be matured here during winter months. Young plants of cabbage, cauliflower, onions and lettuce can be brought on ready for early spring planting in the open. The soil should be a fibrous loam and should be well supplied with lime. Sashes should always be open, except during very stormy weather or when frosts are I heavy. I