WORK IN THE GARDEN
By
BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD,
F. Inst. P.A.
Having been summoned for National Service, I very much regret having to relinquish contact with the gardening public, in Southland, whom I have endeavoured to serve for some years. The interest shown by correspondents, and others whom I have met, has been encouraging and helpful. The cultivation of flowers, vegetables and fruit is no less essential in this district than it is overseas. God gave the flower to beautify the earth, And cheer man’s careful mood; He is happiest who has the power To gather wisdom from a flower, And wake his heart in every hour To pleasant gratitude. THE COOL GLASSHOUSE Draughts and cold biting winds are most injurious to plants; they must be checked. It is probable that Pelargoniums will require potting; and when potting, pot firmly. Do not advance plants to larger pots unless root-bound. Should it be necessary, and the ball of soil being moist at time of potting, water need not be applied for twenty-four hours. THE FLOWER GARDEN Lose no time now in selecting and planting ornamental trees and shrubs, hedge plants and roses. In planting ensure always that the site has been, properly prepared, and that the tree or shrub is planted firmly and afforded aid in support with a stout stake to prevent damage by persistent winds.
Trimming of hedges may still be performed, though it is unwise to reduce the weight of branches and natural cover for old wood when-the weather is severe.
Collect and burn all refuse; the ash is a useful and valuable fertilizer. Cleanliness is the first point in success in gardening operations and upon it hinges freedom from pests and diseases.
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
Again we urge a vigorous policy of ground preparation by trenching, or at least double digging. If the soil is prepared well in advance, and left exposed to the beneficial influences of weathering, then next season’s crops will be so much better and the actual working of the soil will be easier.
Pay attention at this period to manure and compost heaps; obtain all material available and turn the heaps regularly, for by this means they are greatly improved. Selected potato tubers, placed in shallow boxes in an open, cool, light, airy, shed or room, will begin to sprout, yielding suitable material for early planting. Choose medium to small-sized tubers as “seed” for best results. THE FRUIT GARDEN Dig in manure between old bushes which have been in full bearing. Check over all fruit in store, removing any showing evidence of decay, or that is speckled. Scrape loose bark off vine rods and paint the nodes or joins with methylated spirits. The pruning of all fruit trees may now be started, but unless you understand this operation leave it to someone who does. CANTERBURY BELLS The Canterbury Bell is, perhaps, the best-known member of the Campanula family, which is not surprising, when
one takes into consideration its enormous popularity among air sections of the gardening world. This extremely beautiful biennial may be had in the most delicate shades of colour, and whether it is the cupand saucer (calycanthema), double (flore pleno) or the single (C. medium) form, a grand display may be obtained for several months, provided the plants are given that little bit of extra attention they deserve. The herbaceous border may be very much improved by means of a bay of Canterbury Bells, as also may the shrubbery, but the best effect is secured when they are massed in beds or borders set apart for them, and in which they may be planted either formally or informally according -to the taste of the grower. As cut flowers Canterbury Bells are invaluable as they last well in water, and they produce a fine effect when properly arranged, but for this purpose a few should be planted in a separate part of the garden, so as to save those planted for the sole purpose of enriching the flower borders. It is not of the first importance that this plant should have elaborately prepared soil in which to grow, as it will thrive well in ground that has been well dug, with a sprinkling of lime or manure added according to its requirements. Its chief requirements are supplied by a piece of ground that is of medium texture, well drained, and fully open to the sun for the greater part of the day. Success in the cultivation of this flower depends largely on how the plants survive the winter, therefore it is of the utmost importance that they should be well established in their flowering quarters before the winter sets in. PEA SEED TREATMENT Good-quality garden pea seed germinates satisfactorily where soil conditions are warm and not too moist. Where the conditions are not the most favourable, germination is slow, and the germinating seed may be attacked by soil fungi. The damage in this respect may be reduced to a large extent if the seed is dusted with the organic mercurial dusts. The treatment is simple. Take a clean tin which can be made airtight. Put a small quantity of the dust in the tin,. and follow this with the quantity of pea seed that is to be sown. Shake the tin vigorously. A small quantity of the dust will adhtre to the seed and will remain on tM seed when taken from the tin and planted. The dust that has not been used may be left in the tin to treat future lots of seed.
These dusts are poisonous, and care should be taken in handling them. About l»oz is sufficient to treat 501 b of seed. A level teaspoonful will be adequate to place in a tin where only 11b to 21b of seed is to be treated at a time, and most of this quantity will be left in the tin when the seed is removed. SOIL FOR SEED BOXES The seed box mixture which will be required in the very near future should be prepared promptly. It should consist of equal parts of soil and leafmould (or other rotted farm manure) and A preparation of sharp sand where the soil to be used is heavy. These ingredients should be mixed thoroughly and passed through a Jin. mesh sieve. Thereafter, if protection from the weather is afforded and several turnings are made, the mixture should be in ideal condition for use. The inclusion of Jib of superphosphate to the cubic yard several days before sowing encourages a stronger root development of the seedlings.
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Bibliographic details
Southland Times, Issue 24161, 25 June 1940, Page 10
Word Count
1,093WORK IN THE GARDEN Southland Times, Issue 24161, 25 June 1940, Page 10
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