WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24138, 29 May 1940, Page 12

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD,

F. Inst. P.A.

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE

Cyclamen are now beginning to flower freely; therefore great care must be exercised when watering to prevent too much moisture getting into the crown of the plant, which would cause the buds to decay. The pots in which cyclamen are growing will be full of roots; the plants will benefit by watering with either weak liquid manure or soot water, with an occasional dusting of some good plant food . Inspect cyclamen frequently and pull out all leaves that are decaying and all old flower stems. Space the plants out and give each one as much room as possible so that they may remain sturdy and develop into strong specimens. Watch for the appearance of green fly or thrips, and take steps to destroy these pests at once either by fumigating or dipping in some reliable insecticide.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

Cuttings of semi-hardy bedding plants rooted in frames in early autumn should now be well rooted and will require air on all possible occasions. Pentstemons, violas and pansies are among the plants thus treated. Hardy ornamental trees and shrubs are readily increased by means of cuttings of well ripened wood inserted in the open ground now. Take pieces 10 to 15 inches in length, strip off the lower leaves, make a clean sharp cut beneath a node or joint and then place the cuttings in the ground to a depth equivalent tv four-fifths of their total length. Tread firmly or frosts will cause them to be lifted out.

In cold districts subject to prolonged periods of heavy frost, and especially where the soil is heavj and retentive, it is advisable to lift roots of border chrysanthemums and place them in deep boxes to over-winter. Corms of gladioli should be lifted by now, each variety being labelled, when they may be tied in bundles and hung in an open shed to dry, after which they can be cleaned and stored away for winter. Ordinary strong brown paper bags are quite satisfactory to store them in, but in all cases, make certain both the bags and corms are dry.

Where rose planting is contemplated initial preparations should be made. Autumn is unquestionably the best time for planting all kinds of roses, although where the soils are very wet or cold it may be well to delay planting until the spring. Another and very important point in autumn planting is that the purchaser has a much better choice of varieties. Strong well-grown plants with a good root system are absolutely essential to success. Those carrying pinched, thin, growth are not worth planting. Whether making new beds or replanting existing ones the ground should be thoroughly trenched or double-dug, adding some well rotted manure, cow manure for preference, unless the soil is of a very retentive nature; a sprinkling of bone meal will also prove beneficial for the plants later on. Early planted roses, given reasonably fair weather, will become semi-estab-lished before severe weather sets in. Where a rose garden is contemplated one variety in each bed is the most satisfactory method to employ.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Soil cultivation is now the chief concern and this should be pursued diligently whenever it is in a fit state. No opportunity should be lost in completing the digging of the various plots, leaving the surface as rough as possible so that the winds, frost and rain can do their part. It is very important that part of the vegetable garden should receive a good dressing of lime each year and this, if possible, should precede cabbage or other geen crops. The ground being vacant after lifting of potatoes, lime should be applied now and well worked into the first spit by digging the site with a fork.

Onions for early planting may be sown in boxes. Box grown plants over-wintered under control, and set out in well prepared firm ground in spring, produce the largest bulbs. Look over any vegetables in store, particularly potatoes and onions, removing any showing signs of decay or, if not too far gone, set aside for immediate use.

During the winter mustard and cress are most valuable for sandwiches. Seed sown in shallow boxes filled with sandy soil rapidly germinates and grows if placed on shelves in a cool glasshouse or an airy shed.

Winter greens will be in keen demand this season; keep them active by removing yellowed leaves and agitate the soil between the rows with a hoe. Light dustings with blood and bone or fish manure will prove beneficial. Parsnips and swedes, also celery and leeks, may be used as required, but are best left in the ground until after heavy frosts. Should the ground be required they may be lifted and stored. Young lettuce may be kept growing in raised borders with a northerly or easterly aspect. If a light framework be erected above them, over which scrim or similar material can be spread as protection during periods of frost, they will keep growing.

i 1 THE FRUIT GARDEN ) - To be able to prune a fruit tree correctly it is first necessary to know the I object of pruning. The first principle . is of course, to form the tree. ' I Bush trees have stems from 18 to J | 24 inches in height from the top of . i which the main branches radiate outward in goblet formation. This form of tree is very easily managed and it . has the further advantage that sunlight is admitted to all parts of the tree. , To form a bush the selected “maiden tree” is cut back during the first winter to three prominent growth buds at 1 about knee height. Tire following season these buds should produce good strong shoots. - | During the second winter these shoots should be shortened to about 12 inches from the main stem, care ' being taken to cut back to a bud pointing in the direction you wish the . i future growth to take. The pruning should be so carried out as to secure the requisite number of primary shoots to lay the foundation of the future tree and, in succeeding years, to ensure that lateral shoots are formed at regular intervals along the main branches.