WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 23945, 11 October 1939, Page 12

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD,

F. Inst. P.A.

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE

Sow seed of greenhouse annuals such as browallias, celosias, balsams and coleus.

Feed schizanthus with weak cow manure, to which a little soot has been added. Pay regular attention to staking and tying. Geraniums and pelargoniums should be kept growing vigorously, advanced to larger pots as necessary or fed when the pots in which they are to flower are filled with roots.

Tuberous begonias and gloxinias should be kept growing freely. . They prefer a compost of which leaf mould is a principal ingredient. The days becoming longer, brighter and warmer, closer attention must be paid to' shading, ventilation, control of heat and watering.

THE FLOWER GARDEN

Evergreen ornamental shrubs may still be planted but make sure, at time of planting that the ball of soil is thoroughly wet. If planting iate, plant firmly. It is observed in some gardens that ornamental and hedge plants planted in late autumn, winter or early this spring have become loose in the ground through soil subsidence of the action of the wind, and air is getting down to the roots from a space around the “collar” of the stem. In such instances the plants must be securely tightened. It is yet much too early to set seasonal bedding plants in permanent flowering quarters, though seed of hardy annuals may be. sown. Early planting of sweet peas is advised and at time of planting always provide for aid and \ support of subsequent growth with bushy manuka. Gladioli or primulinus and largeflowered types should be set out now in their permanent quarters. In the hardy flower border complete planting of new perennials and be ready to afford support by staking and tying to those about to commence active growth. Subject to ground having been thoroughly prepared sowing of lawns should be performed immediately and at the rate of two ounces to the square yard. A good mixture will comprise •Chewing’s fescue, 4 parts; crested dogstail, 2 parts; browntop, 2 parts; poa pratensis, 1 part. Every day is hoeing day. Get the’ habit of using the hoe regularly to provide for soil aeration and suppression of weeds. If beds in which spring flowers are growing are thoroughly hoed now, a better and more lasting display, will result.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Proceed with the planting of potatoes. Allow ample space between the rows, riot less than two and a-half feet and 14 inches between the “seed” tubers. If the tubers selected as seed are large they may be cut, _ the cut portions being dipped, in lime. Ensure always seed tubers are clean, not spotted or diseased, medium to small in size and of an even grade. Plant brown Spanish and giant roepa onions on firm ground. The soil can scarcely be too rich for onions. Soot is most beneficial. A small sowing of White Lisbon will be most useful for salading. Green peas and broad beans require to be sown at regular intervals. Leave as much room--as possible between the rows and thin the plants to two inches apart. The early staking of peas with bushy scrub as an aid in support is Ground dug in autumn recently forked over will now be ready for sowing if raked down and rough lumps removed. It should be very apparent that ground dug or trenched and manured in autumn is in much better condition than that which has only recently been turned over. Subject to soil conditions sowings may be made without delay of carrots, parsnips, beet, turnips and spinach. Small regular sowings of salading plants—lettuces, radish, mustard, cress, and so on—should be made at regular intervals. A deeply-dug, well-nour-ished soil ensures rapid growth and this is essential if the best material for salads is to be produced. Salsify, commonly called the vegetable oyster, may be sown in rows one foot apart and the plants, later, thinned to 10 inches apart. \ deep, rich soil is necessary, the main object in cultivation being to obtain long, strong roots. • When fully developed the roots are lifted and stored in a manner similar to other root crops.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

In the vinery remove superfluous growth, pinch back over-vigorous shoots and loop to under-surface of wires. Keep a sharp look-out for curled or blistered leaves on peaches and nectarines—burn them. Apply a drenching spray of Bordeaux mixture. Early planted tomatoes should be growing vigorously. Keep all latera. growths removed and admit plenty of Air and light. Prevent draughts, do not over-water or permit the house to become over-heated. Check over all fruits’planted early in the season to ensure that they are securely entered in the ground. Where ties are strained more attention to staking and tying will be necessary.

WHAT TO SEE IN GARDENS

In the Main Gardens, Block 11, near Conon street, two fine specimens of Prunus serrulata attract considerable attention at this period each year. Considerable doubt. exists as to the real native home of this strain, but it is known to have been cultivated for ages by the Japanese by whom its blossoming is made the occasion of a national festival. It is, however, probably a native of North China. There are many fine Japanese cherries, each of which has numerous forms of which a great variety has been introduced in recent years either under the native name or other names and, in many instances, differing only in degree. In this district they are seen to advantage only in positions where adequate shelter is provided, for they flower at a period when severe winds usually occur and the flowers, being delicate, soon get badly thrashed. Never under any circumstances should flowering cherries be planted in open or exposed situations or in other than a deep, rich soil. Where soil conditions are not naturally good a hole four feet wide and four feet deep should be opened out, the bottom foot being filled with turfy loam and manure and the remainder with prepared compost. Under these conditions good specimen trees can rapidly be developed.

SEASONAL NOTES

Where young herbaceous arid biennial stock was raised last year and is still in the nursery quarters no time should be lost in transferring the plants to their flowering sites. Lift them with good balls of soil so that little disturbance takes place, and plant them very firmly. Such subjects as Geurris, Mrs Bradshaw and Lady Stratheden, Salvia turkestanicum, a fine addition to any mixed border, and

Cynoglossum amabile, require to be well settled in their new quarters before the hot summer weather arrives. Primulas, too, have most unfortunately a tendency to perish and must be raised almost annually if the display is to be maintained. Where beds of these have successfully come through the winter a top-dressing of leaf or vegetablemould will be of great assistance in retaining moisture and affording material for the new roots to penetrate round the collar of the plants, as many of them have a tendency to grow out of the ground.

SOWING SEEDS. OF ANNUALS

The recent rains have proved very welcome, and whenever the soil is in good .condition and dry enough to work on, a' number of annuals should be sown as soon as possible. In the cooler parts it is often found best to sow many of the better-class annuals under glass, and when germinated and large enough to handle, to prick them out into frames or boxes in order to have good, strong plants to plant out later. Verbenas, asters, stocks, petunias, larkspurs, phlox drummondii, nicotianas, marigolds and nemesias are subjects that may be treated in this manner. If this plan is adopted never leave the seedlings in a farm house for many days after germination, or they will quickly become drawn and weakly. Some annuals thrive best if sown where they are to flower, and of these godetias, clarkias, nigella, Shirley and other poppies, lavateras, nasturtiums (Tropaeolums), mignonette, ursinia anethoides, the annual chrysanthemums, Virginian stocks, zinnias and sweet sultans, usually give good results when so treated. Many annuals never have a chance to do well through being sown much too thickly and neglected in thinning. A golden rule in connection with seed sowing is to “sow thinly, and thin early.” There is absolutely no comparison between annuals grown on good ground, and which have been allowed sufficient room for development, and the weakly little plants one sometimes sees which have been left far too close together. If the thinning is done at the proper time the seedlings that are removed may ■ be utilized to furnish vacant spaces in the flower beds and borders.

THE PERUVIAN CARROT

John Smith’s “Dictionary of Economic Plants” contains the following reference to the Peruvian carrot:—“Arracacha esulenta, a perennial herb of the Umbel family; it attains a height of two or three feet. It has divided leaves like the carrot, and small umbels of purple flowers, and has large fleshy roots, which form an important article of food in the above and other countries of southern and central America. About 50 years ago a packet of its roots was received at Kew for the purpose of ascertaining whether it would be a plant capable of being cultivated in this country, but it did not succeed; the summer heat was not sufficient to bring it to maturity.” Nicholson, in his “Dictionary of Gardening,” wrote: “Arracacha (its Spanish name in South America). Ord. Umbelliferae. A half-hardy tuberous perennial, highly esteemed as an esculent in South America, where it yields a food, which is prepared in the same manner as potatoes, and is said to be grateful to the palate and extremely easy of digestion. It thrives best in rich loam; and is increased by di- ] vision of the roots.” The author gives Conium Arracacha as a synonym of Arracacha esculenta.

Unusual prominence is given to “Arracacia esculenta. Eatable Arracacha,” in the Botanical Magazine, t. 3092 (1831), where no fewer than six pages of text accompany the illustration of flowers, seeds, stem and leaves. The largest tuber of the “edible sort” _ is described as measuring “eight or nine inches long, by two, or two and a-half inches in diameter, and is nearly the same circumference throughout.” Reference is made to an account ,of the plant published by M. Vargas in “Annals of Botany,” about the year 1805, and this account is quoted extensively. Further, Dr Bancroft relates the hiethod of cultivating the plant at Bogota, which is, “after separating the upper tubers, or knobs from the root to detach from these the offsets, singly, each with its portion of the substance of the tuber, which is then to be pared smoothly all round at the bottom, the outer leaves being stripped or cut off, so as to leave a sprout from half to two or three inches at the most. If any germs or eyes be seen at the base of the offsets, these must be carefully cut out. Thus prepared, the shoots are planted in loose mould, in a slanting direction, at distances of 15 or 18 inches from each other, whether the ground be level or sloping. Afterwards, at intervals of about two months, the soil ought to be weeded; and when the plants have attained the height of 10 or 12 inches, or whenever they show a disposition to blossom, the budding tips should be taken off, as the process of flowering would hinder the root from coming to its greatest size, care being taken not to remove more than the budding extremities, lest the growth of the root should thereby also suffer . . . From time to time, and particularly after weeding the ground, fresh mould should be laid at the foot of each plant.” An interesting observation is that “in Bogota and Popayan, they obtain a succession of Arracachas through the whole year, by planting shoots at every decrease of the moon.”

TODAY’S PROGRAMMES