WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 23897, 16 August 1939, Page 16

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD, F. Inst. P.A.

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE

Hydrangeas for summer flowering should now be lifted and potted. Plants showing short well-ripened growths will give the best display. Soil for hydrangeas should consist of turfy loam, four parts; well-rotted cow manure, one part; decayed leaf mould, one part; with an admixture of charcoal and sand. Two ounces sulphate of iron may be added to each bushel of the mixture.

Tuberqus begonias to flower at Christmas or early in the New Year should be started now in boxes, potting on to small pots and gradually advancing them as growth demands. Plants are kept in flower longest by restricting water, keeping dead blooms removed and regularly turning them to permit an equal degree of light on all sides.

Calceolarias will be on the move. Advance them to the pots in which they are to flower, 6in or Bin, as size demands. A rich porous compost with an admixture of soot and bone meal is most beneficial. . THE FLOWER GARDEN There,is now ample evidence of advancing spring. Leaves of flowering plums are semi-developed and many plants such as flowering currants, June berry and silver birch are about to flower. It is time planting of ornamentals for the season was completed in order that the plants may become anchored and established before in full leaf, and drying winds begin. Any renovation, replanting or additions to the perennial border should now be made. Digging, sub-division of big plants and replanting must be completed without delay. 1 , Spring-flowering plants such as wallflowers, myosotis, polyanthus, sweet William, and so on, should be stimulated into activity by a gentle loosening of the surface soil, at the same time applying a very light dressing of sulphate of ammonia. At this stage wallflowers benefit from an application of lime, which is reflected in the development of flowers, and fragrance. Polyanthus should be top-dressed or surface mulched with leaf mould and decayed stable manure, mixed in equal proportions, and passed through a sieve of half-inch mesh. Proceed now with rose pruning. If you do not thoroughly understand what to do, engage someone -to do ,it. After pruning rose beds should be dug over and liberal quantities of animal manure added. The rose is really surface rooting and a gross feeder. Many of the best growers lift, root prune and replant each year. This is not always practicable but, excessive root development may be restricted by cutting down close to the plants with a sharp spade. Have the trench ready for the early planting of sweet peas, leaving it as rough as possible and open to the •influence of all weather. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN There is little to be gained by planting or sowing before conditions are such that growth may be encouraged. To sow seed when the ground is wet may cause it to rot and be lost, while planting under similar conditions will cause a severe check and retard subsequent development. Notwithstanding, the principal operations are digging, trenching and manuring of all vacant ground. The old-time “good practice” method suggests that one should not work the ground if the soil is in a sticky state. To wait for ideal conditions would mean a very late garden and one must advance the work as opportunity permits. Look over potatoes sprouting in boxes at regular intervals, removing any tubers which are inferior or ‘‘blind. They should be ready for planting towards the end of this, or early next month. Cliff’s Kidney, Sutton’s Perfection and Jersey Bennes are the varieties recommended, while Epicure, Catriona and Snowflake Kidney are also popular. , A raised border facing north or east is helpful where early vegetables are desired. Lettuce, radishes, spring onions, carrots, white stone turnips, broad beans, peas and prickly spinach may all be sown, under s.uch conditions. Kohl Rabi is a vegetable which is little grown. Plants raised from seed now produce material to use in October. Parsley may be sown on the edges of flower or vegetable borders. It is slow to germinate and may not appear for six weeks. . . Now that there is evidence of activity keep the soil stirred around vegetables sown or planted in the autumn. Very light dustings of sulphate of ammonia worked in at the same time will prove beneficial. When conditions are suitable prepare the bed for main crop onions by forking it over, pointing in old manure or decomposed vegetable matter if available. The soil must be deeply wotked and heavily manured before sowing THE FRUIT GARDEN If pruning and spraying are not yet completed there is no time to lose. Buds are now well advanced and in some instances colour is showing. Lime sulphur with salt or soda is an effective wash for general purposes and is specially recommended in the control of San Jose scale. In the vinery rods scraped and cleaned should now be tied back in position and as growth begins lose no time in suppressing those shoots which will not be required. It is very easy to produce early tomatoes subject to conditions being favourable, but most difficult once the plants turn “blue.” If growth is so checked it is better to remove the plants and put in fresh ones. Ever, if the original plants got away they would be stunted and the crop xestricted in consequence. Digging over and manuring of fruit borders should now be completed and planting not performed by the end of next week is best deferred until next season. WHAT TO SEE IN GARDENS Among the first of the early flowering spring shrubs to develop its blossom is the white tree heather, Erica pyramadalis, many fine specimens of which are to be seen in the borders which flank the Rose Gardens at Queen’s Park. Associated with the Ericas, heaths or heathers and what might be styled

“good companion plants are the Chilian Flame Tree, Emothrium coccineum, any of the magnolias (but Soulangeana or Stellata for preference) the Calico Bush, Galmia latifolia, Pemettias, Azaleas, Pieris and dwarf rhododendrons, all of which resent lime, applications of which must be avoided. 11 is interesting to watch these borders from now on as many interesting and unusual plants are contained therin, including a choice Eucryphia and the Ghost Tree, Davidia involucrata. NATIVE PLANTS There are very few private gardens, even among those which boast a collection of indigenous plants, in which the Rangiora is to be found flourishing. I have not yet seen a good specimen in the south, though I am acquainted with a big group of the purple-leaved Rangiora on a hill in the Botanic Gardens at Dunedin. This plant occurs naturally from the North Cape to Greymouth and there is no reason why it should not thrive in sheltered places in private bush or under the shade of big trees in a corner of the garden or shrubbery. For appearance and handsome features it ranks in the first six of our plants. The branches are stout, spreading, densely clothed with white tomentum, as are also the leaves. The leaves themselves are big and irregularly shaped. It is a plant which grows from six to 18 feet in height and one which might well be more commonly found. The leaves, it is recorded, were used by the Maoris for application to wounds and old sores, it being assumed the poisonous principle found in them is antiseptic, thus cleansing the wound. A warning, however, is issued against permitting horses or cattle access to the plants lest they be poisoned through eating the leaves. It must not be imagined that this plant is hardy, though I would claim it is on the borderland of hardiness and where adequate protection is afforded by top cover should stand out unharmed, even in our most severe weather. For the information of those who would be exacting its correct name is Brachyglottis rangiora, while a companion species is named B. repanda. There is much similarity between the two and the opinion of authorities differ on the difference in characteristic features. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM

When chrysanthemums were taken west, they possessed an Eastern humility, that was, rightly or wrongly, ascribed as a characteristic of the mass of the people in China and Japan. The flower of the people, the national flower, the flower that figured on plate and bowl, in pictures and dress patterns and as decorative aids to the coiffures of Japanese maidens. Any gardener interested in floral antiquities should cultivate the chrysanthemum, which was recorded in the writings of the famous philosopher, Confucious, about 500 B.C. Another Chinese cultivator grew it with such outstanding success in A.D. 365, that the city in which he lived was called Chu-hsien—meaning Chrysanthemum City. Now Japan has captured this flower of tradition and honoured it for centuries past by incorporating it in the crest and official seal of the Mikado. And so this flower of ancient lineage has come down to us through the ages ,and to-day has the prestige given to Australia through the hybridizations of Thomas Pockett, the doyen of raisers, by the production of types and varieties, the equal of any in the world. In our weather the plants are hardy and healthy, increase rapidly, and new varieties are reasonably enough priced, to be within the reach of even tightened purse strings. The production of suckers is one means of propagation, but instead of being left year after year to crowd themselves out and deteriorate in bloom, only one plant should be used; the old roots should be discarded and suckers retained for next year’s output. Many culturists prefer striking plants from cuttings; they strike readily, and are definitely healthier and sturdier than those plants grown from suckers. There is less likelihood of perpetuating any latent or apparent disease by resorting to this method, and in the case of certain varieties that do not sucker readily, propagation is the only way to ensure an increase in stock.—The Garden Lover, Australia . SEED SOWING Get out the seed-boxes and fill them with finely-prepared soil which is not inclined to form a hard crust on the • surface after watering. Add sand or peat-moss to correct that disposition on the part of some soils. Bore plenty of big holes in the bottom of the boxes; and, if tins are used, punch holes from inside —not outside —because if you punch them inwards, the burrs will obstruct the quick, getaway of water. Put holes in the sides as well as in the bottoms. Now some rough pebbles, charcoal, or broken pots must be put in the bottom, and a layer of peatmoss, dry grass, manure, or straw put over it, to prevent the soil penetrating the loose material. Next fill the box with fine, free soil which need not be particularly rich, and press it down firmly. The soil must not be dry, and it must not be wet, but just moist and free. More seeds fail through being sown on loose soil, than from any other cause; so be sure to press the soil down firmly before sowing, and also afterwards, to assure the fine seeds coming firmly in contact with the earth—otherwise they, perish as soon as germination starts, because the tiny rootlets cannot obtain a hold. Now. having pressed the seeds in firmly, cover them to just twice their own diameter with the finest soil you can find. Deep sowing causes disaster. The only seeds that need much covering at all are those as Dig as lupins or sweet peas. Careful watering and attention soon bring well-sown seeds to the transplanting stage.