MAIN TRENDS IN FASHION

Southland Times, Issue 23610, 10 September 1938, Page 16

MAIN TRENDS IN FASHION

Points From Paris Collections

PARIS, August 10.

In the past fortnight all the leading Paris dress designers have shown their collections for the autumn and winter, and, now that all the mannequin parades are over, it is possible to sum up the main trends from the mass of ideas revealed. Although no two collections resemble each other in the slightest degree, there are some points on which all the designers agree. Here is a summary of general tendencies: — Suits: Rather long, fitted jackets (not flared) worn over skirts with a slight flare. Or big swagger or box coats, cut very full, worn over pencil-slim skirts. The skirt length is still short, not below mid-calf, despite various attempts to lengthen it. Coats: They are cut on most generous lines, and mostly trimmed with a lot of fur. The full-length box coat is popular, giving a straight silhouette, or a slight swing from the shoulders. Yokes

of fur, fronts or waistcoats are more favoured than., ordinary collars or cuffs. There is a feeling for rough furs. Collars are up to the ears. Roll collars and shawl collars are back. Pockets are built right out from the coat and bring the waistline down on the hips. Cloaks: They have come to stay, though their present full lines may be modified for more practical wear. Many have a military cut. Day dresses: The great majority are sensibly cut, warm, well-fitting, and designed to suit all types. The neckline is high and usually fitted with a collar band or fold. Many frocks have high prim collars like those Edwardian governesses wore. Afternoon dresses: Severe in line, they fasten high at the throat, and often their only decoration is fine tucking of pleating or dainty trimming of ribbon velvet Dinner gowns: There are two distinct lines. First, ankle-length gowns, buttoned to the neck in the front, but low at the back, with full skirts and a variety of gaily puffed orj. hanging sleeves; second, dinner suits in velvet or lame, soft jersey, lace or satin. Evening dresses: They are either slender-fitting or have a full, flowing crinoline silhouette, going back to the late nineties and early Edwardian days for their inspiration. Formal evening gowns are excessively low cut, many having no shoulder straps. Hats: They go upward and forward. Though high, they are not necessarily high-crowned. Feathers and fur are used to achieve height Many hats are veiled, and often the veils have elaborate trimmings. Felt is the most usual material. Quite a number of hats are in antelope, and some are in a material called taupe, a kind of soft velour.

Waists: The waistline is falling. It now sits just above the hips. This rather difficult line is improved by clever draping in front to accentuate the bust.

Sleeves: On jackets, coats and dresses, sleeves are so tight that it will be a struggle to get into them. Shoulders are hardly padded at all in eithed dresses or suits.

Materials: Rich-looking, but not flashy. • There are soft velvets, with a surface looking like suede, slipper satins, moire, silk ruche, a lot of lace and tulle for the evening, lustrous soft crepes, and jerseys. A heavy lame brocade in dull tones is used for evening dresses and evening coats. Colour: They range from glowing purple and crimson to mole and a lovely caramel brown. Black, as always, is most important. Among new colours are: Florentine pink, guards’ red, and picasso blue. Violet appears in many shades. “HAREM” TROUSERS Now for some of the eccentricities of the Paris collections. “Trousers for dinner parties” is one of the more daring ideas. Pearl grey, baggy “harem” trousers, secured by jewelled anklets, are shown with a gold lame bodice. Kid evening boots, worn half-way up the calf, are another innovation. Green kid boots are worn with a dark velvet evening gown. An ingenious novelty is a little coloured fish, pinned on to a suit below the breast pocket, with a tiny electric lamp in its mouth, which gleams and sparkles when the wearer moves. Gilt statuettes are also shown, pinned to the lapels of suits. Then there are evening gloves with long gilt Chinese nails, and luggage locks as fastenings on dresses and suits. Eastern and barbaric jewellery is much in evidence. Massive gold necklaces and bracelets, some with three or four purses hanging from them, are seen.

Indian jewels and antique charms trim the slim afternoon frocks. A number of dresses have photographs on the material. The famous Winged Victory of Samothrace—one of the art treasures of the Louvre—appears on an evening dress across the bodice and down one side as far as the waist.

One of Paris’s bright ideas was an amusing summer dress with the word “Amour” (love) printed all over the material.