THE SOUTHERN RUNS

Southland Times, Issue 23182, 24 April 1937, Page 15

THE SOUTHERN RUNS

Scott’s Gap, Birchwood and Dipton

(Specially Written for The Southland Times).

(BY

H. BEATTIE)

(No. 25.)

The 142nd application at the Dun- ' edin Waste Lands Office for a depasturing license was made by Matthew Scott in the first half of 1856, the locality being roughly stated as Jacob's River and the name of the applicant being advertised as “Matthew” Scott. In the list prepared for the Otago Provincial Council in December 1856, it is noted that the application for Run 142 was for 20,000 acres and that the area required 718 sheep on it before a licence could be granted. This stipulation was apparently met and a licence was issued in August 1857. The official entry runs:—“No 142. Matthew Scott of Jacob’s River District. The boundaries are—north, run 143, east, run 133, south, run 128 or Mound Creek, west, run 156 and Longwood range; the whole as per office map. The yearly fee to be £5 10/- for 14 years from August 4, 1857. P. Proud-

foot, Commissioner.” The run occupied a strategic position on the route to the west, a route so convenient that it came to be known as Scott’s Gap and is so known to this day, and it had many callers. Mr W. H. S. Roberts came back from the Waiau via that route and under date December 8, 1857, he wrote: —“I started for Riverton, leaving the packhorse and swag, except a pair of blankets and overcoat, which I strapped in front of me on the saddle. After leaving the flat the ridges were low but broken and poorly grassed at first, but improved greatly as I approached the Orawia, which I forded about 11 milessoutheast fromm Lonneker’s hut. Two miles in a north-east direction up a spur brought me to Scott’s Gap, a saddle in the Woodlaw range, which was low but very rough travelling.” WW-enot,rstbßdbgutam m m cmfwyp Scott’s Run Mr Roberts continues: —“Scott’s Gap had the advantage of being open land, hence called a ‘gap,’ although there was a forest on both hands. Four miles of the same sort of country, and I rode up to Mr Scott’s tent. As he was living by himself, he was quite pleased to have my company for a night. He had built a comfortable hut, but unfortunately it had been consumed by fire with all its contents a short time previously. His loss was considerable as there was no insurance on it. The run was a small but good one, being only 10,000 acres, situated between the Otautau river and the Woodlaw range, the shed water of which was the boundary, giving all the land the advantage of an easterly aspect and shelter from the south-west storms. He .had only 750 sheep and some mares on the run. December 9—Scott walked three miles with me to show me the road, which crossed the spurs between the Woodlaw range and the Otautau river. I then rode along the east of the Longwood forest, an extensive bush stretching over the range to the Waiau and to the sea coast, and after travelling 15 miles I reached Mount Pleasant, Howell’s run, No. 128.” The collector has a peculiar note to the effect that Scott leased (?) the Waicola run in 1863 and that in the same year Robinson leased Scott’s Gap. This together with a statement that Scott retired from his run in 1872, leasing it to Aitken, requires verification before acceptance. Another noteworthy point is that application No. 155 for 80,000 acres, Jacob’s River West, was made by H. C. Robison m 1856. The licence had not been granted by December 1856, as he had not uut the required 2234 sheep on it, and .ater the verdict is written across it, “Cancelled as same land as No. 142.” The only sheep returns for No. 142 the collector has are September 1859, when there were 1115 sheep on it and September 1860, when Scott had 1260 and Francis 1000 sheep on this run. A meeting of pastoralists was held at this station on March 30, 1859. “In July

1904 news was received of the death of Matthew Scott. He had arrived in Invercargill in 1856 and pitched his tent in the scrub about the spot later occupied by the Albion Hotel, prior to taking up pastoral property at Scott’s Gap. Fruitless endeavours were made to induce him to join the Provincial Council. Mr Scott went north many years ago, but almost invariably visited Southland during the summer months. He never married.” The remaining note the collector has about this run is that in September 1872, its area was only 2500 acres and that it was then owned by'R. W. Williams. The Old Birchwood Run We now come to Run No. 143, which s scarcely recognizable under this lesignation, but is a household word mder its common name of Birchwood. Phis famous property was first applied for by Freeman Rayney Jackson, who arrived at Lyttleton in the ship Sir George Pollock in 1851. In 1854 he travelled overland to the south and explored as far west as Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri, being one of the first white men to see these lovely sheets of water in their mountain setting. So impressed was this early “tourist” with the pastoral possibilities

of Murihiku, as well as its scenic charms, that he took up two runs, one at Birchwood (which he apparently named) and one at Manapouri. It is sometimes stated in print that he applied for the former in 1854, but its

numbering dispels that contention for it could not have been earlier than the end of 1855 or the beginning of 1856. The application was for 40,000 acres and as the requisite 1000 sheep were not on the country before December 1856, a licence was delayed until they were, this being in July 1857. The Lands Office record runs:—“No. 143 Freeman Jackson. Boundaries: North, Wairaki Downs, East, Runs No. 187 and No. 153, south, Run No. 133, west, Run No. 156 and Crown Lands as shown on office maps. Dunedin, July 9, 1857. P. Proudfoot, Commissioner. Yearly fee £8 17/- for 14 years, increased to £lO 4/- on May 5, 1860. This run was divided into three, viz Nos. 143, 143 A, 1438 and the original licence was thereby cancelled on December 17, 1863.” Substituted for it were three further applications. No. 143 (new application by Francis S. B. Holt of Birchwood). Boundaries: North the Morley Creek, east, the Wairio Creek or the west boundary of Run No. 153, south, Runs Nos. 133 and 156, west, Run 156A2. Term, 14 years from July 9, 1857. Dated at Invercargill, November 13, 1863. Yearly fee £lO 4/-.”

The collector cannot give the subsequent history of the three portions into which the old run was divided, but he has a note that Captain Gardner was in Birchwood in 1868-9 and following years. Under the captain’s sway, Birchwood was famous for its house parties—racing, hunting, shooting, dancing, amateur theatricals and music. Here the Birchwood Hounds originated in May 1886 and have since made history. Captain Gardner’s connection with Birchwood terminated in 1904.

One Run Divided Into Three The second application for a portion of the old Birchwood run proceeds:— “No. 143 A. Messrs Jackson and Reincker of Beaumont. Boundaries: North, Run No. 187 extension; east, Run No. 187; south, Morley Creek or Run No. 143; west, Run 1438. Term, 14 years from July 9, 1857. Yearly fee £lO 4/-. Dated at Invercargill, October 24, 1863. “Transferred from Jackson and Reincker to Bernard Reincker, April 22, 1864. “Transferred from B. Reincker to James Harvey, April 22, 1864. “Transferred from J. Harvey to B. Reincker and Walter Hunter on January 29, 1866.” The third application may also be conveniently inserted here. It runs as follows:—“No. 1438. Bernard Reincker of Beaumont. Boundaries: North, Run No. 187 extension; east, 143 A; south, Morley Creek or Run No. 143; west, Run No. 156A1. Term, 14 years from July 9, 1857. Yearly fee £lO 4/-. Dated at Invercargill, October 24, 1863. This license is issued on the distinct understanding that it gives no claim for the pre-emptive rights under the Land Regulations of 1856, as per resolution of the Waste Lands Board. W. H. Pearson, Chief Commissioner. “Transferred from B. Reincker to James Harvey, April 22, 1864. “Transferred from J. Harvey to B. Reincker and Walter Hunter, January 29, 1866.”

The collector has no description of these three runs, nor can he say what area they were, what buildings were on them, nor what name each portion went by. Perhaps some old-timer may be able to supply these details and any other relevant particulars. The only employee on Birchwood that the collector has a note of is Robert Cuppies, who landed at the Bluff in 1863 and worked on Birchwood about the end of the sixties. In regard to sheep, F. R. Jackson had 2184 in the year 1859, and 3005 in September 1860, but further than this the collector’s figures do not go, except for an item in the seventies. A map of March 1857 gives “Orawia” as the name of Run 143 and “143 extension” as the run north of it. There was evidently some uncertainty over the early boundaries because at the meeting of the Waste Land Board on October 30, 1858, W. Cameron (Waicola) was requested not to trespass on Jackson’s run (Birchwood). In 1871 Calder and Blacklock and Co., of Birchwood Station, owned 14,254 sheep on the run, whose area is given as 20,394 acres. In 1872 Mr Clark Campbell, of Mararoa, owned both 143 A and 1438 runs. A Visit To Birchwood

In regard to the old Birchwood run, Mr W. H. S. Roberts visited it on December 2, 1857, and describes his impressions thus:—“We started westward over the spurs from the Wairaki Downs, and just as we got on to Run 143, belonging to Freeman R. Jackson, his cousin, Mr Hodge, rode up. He had been told by Mr Taylor when we might be expected and had come to meet us and to show us the best way to take the cattle, a kindness I appreciated very highly. He had been guided to us by our grass fires. Four miles brought us to one of the sources of the Orawia, a tributary of the Waiau north of Twinlaw Hill. We left the cattle there and, following the creek up about a mile, arrived at Birchwood station, where I was welcomed by F. Jackson and Henry McCulloch, his partner. The dwelling was a goodsized slab hut, neatly clayed inside, with glass windows and roomy fireplace. There was also a wool shed and the indispensable futter. A bush of birch trees and Twinlaw Hill, which rose in well-grassed though steep spurs to an altitude of 1819 feet, sheltered

the house from the south-west gales which were very prevalent here.” Mr R. F. Cuthbertson many years ago told an interviewer much station lore, a little of which may be quoted here. “The only dwelling near Otautau, and a mile and a-half from the ford, was the residence of Matthew Scott, who had a small run. His abode in 1861 was a two-roomed hut, thatched and lined with bark and there was also a small wool shed and sheep yard near at hand. Paddocks there were none and if a beast strayed there were no fences to stop it. After crossing the Otautau ford near the present main road, the track diverged, one route following up the Jacob’s River to Wrey’s Bush and the other taking the direction of the present railway line through the Waicola run till nearly opposite the ‘white ranges,’ when it turned sharp to the nor’-west and followed up the valley between these ridges on the north and Twinlaw on the south, till the mouth of the valley was reached, at the head of which stood the old Birchwood station. Although most travellers made the Birchwood homestead, yet the main track up country did not pass within a couple of miles of it.”

So much for the situation of the station, but what of the men who occupied it? That human nature was the same then can be demonstrated, so the collector will leave the stern track of the dull historian and tread awhile the rosy pathway of romance as pictured to us by Mr W. H. S. Roberts.

Love’s Young Dream

“The Shea Lawlors had to come to Riverton from Nelson with Mr and Mrs J. P. Taylor. They were of a good Irish family and well educated. Miss Lawlor was ‘fair, with golden hair,’ her two sisters brunettes and very goodlooking, Anna particularly so. She was a great favourite. They were all pleasant, unaffected, merry and full of fun and wit, as only Irish girls can be. They all, after a while (for they would not give up their valued freedom too quickly) married well, Miss Lawlor to Henry Rogers of Riverton, Mary to Henry McCulloch, who was afterwards resident magistrate and Anna to Freeman Jackson on February 19, 1859. His attachment was love at first sight, for I had the pleasure of introducing him to her on November 11, 1857, and if ever a man showed admiration in his face Jackson did so on that occasion. Shortly afterwards J. C. McKay wrote the following parody on ‘Annie Laurie,’ wording it as if Mr Jackson had written it himself:—

By Omut banks sae bonnie We met, and I did woo The lovely Anna Lawlor, Who gave her promise true. Gave me her promise true, She pledged it unto me, And for bonnie Anna Lawlor I’d dare the surging sea.

Her cloudless brow was bonnie, Her bosom stainless white, And showed her true heart beating, ’Twas beating with delight. ’Twas beating with delight, That heart did beat for me. And for bonnie Anna Lawlor I’d dare the raging sea.

Her form the fairest effort Of Nature’s works of clay, Her coral lips inviting With smiles forever play. Her smiles forever play, But her sweetest smiles for me, And for bonnie Anna Lawlor I’d dare the surging sea.” And so, my young ladies and young gentlemen, you will observe that human nature is the same in all generations and can conclude how the first two owners of Birchwood secured brides for themselves. Love’s journeys end in lovers’ meetings and we can picture Messrs Rogers, McCulloch and Jackson leaving their flocks and herds and hieing away for Riverton on every possible chance and we can also picture Cupid drawing his bow and twanging an arrow into each heart. In The Southern News and Foveaux Straits Herald of March 9, 1861, there was this birth announcement: —“On the 24th ult. at Riverton, the wife of Freeman R. Jackson, Esq., of a son.” In 1866 Mr and Mrs F. R. Jackson left Southland and went to Wanganui where they became leading citizens and where some of their descendants reside. In regard to some of the other owners of Birchwood and its offshoots the present writer has no particulars.

The Dipton Run

This was No. 149 on the register and was first applied for by W. N. Milton in the first half of 1856, his application being for 40,000 acres “New River West.” He was told that 1000 sheep were required ere a licence could be granted and the records state that no licence had been issued by December 1856. The next man who got liis eye on the Taringatura country was Thomas Lee, and he took up the abandoned claim in 1858. The concise official record proceeds:—“Run No. 149 applied for by Thomas Lee of Murihiku—boundaries—north, Nos. 159 and 154, east, Oreti, south, the land set aside for sale under the Lands Sales and Leases Ordinance, 1856, west, Run No. 135—a1l as per office map. Term, 14 years from January 17, 1859, yearly fee £5 10/-.” Further official information runs:—“Thomas Lee transferred half the run to James McClymont on May 22, 1860, and Lee and McClymont transferred the run to Philip Lloyd Francis on August 11, 1863, and he transferred it on July 26, 1865, to Thomas Denniston and William Jamieson, who transferred it on the same date to George Morison J. L. Morison. H. Lav/ and J. Squires, and these four owners transferred it on September 27, 1865, to the Bank of New South Wales.”

Of the first owner of the run, Thomas Lee, the present writer knows practically nothing, possessing only two meagre references. One of these refers to that well-known Waikaia pioneer Alex Christie and says:—“ln the year 1859 Mr Christie came south to Heddon Bush, where he worked for a Mr Lee for a short time and he also spent a yet shorter period at Dipton.” The other reference runs:—“ln 1860 J. P. Young erected a dwelling for W. Hopcraft at Gummie’s Bush. The dimensions of the chimney were 14 feet by 8 feet and 11 men slept in it, among these being Mr H. Rogers, S.M., .Mr Fielder, scab inspector, Mr Gillon, Bates Brothers, and Mr Thomas Lee.” Of all the early owners of Dipton the Morisons seemed to be more identified with the place than any of the others. A newspaper clipping of March 1868, reads: —“We had lately the pleasure of inspecting a flock of American Merino rams imported from the United States. They are owned by John Morison, Esq., of Dipton.” A Retiring Run The Dipton run does not seem to have come into the limelight and apparently attracted few visitors. A wagoner of the seventies said to the writer: —“Leaving Winton and going north the first station was Dipton, owned by Morison, and the next was Castlerock, which I reached in two days. I did not stay overnight at the Dipton station as I slept under the tilt of my wagon. The tilt was simply hoops with a tarpaulin over them. The track ran up the east side of the valley and crossed the Oreti river at Dipton and then kept on up the west side. The Dipton station was a bit off the route and lay to the west of the track. I could see the buildings and the trees in the distance but I never went to see them closer.” In a Sheep Return of the year 1871, “Morison and Company, Dipton” are given as being the owners of 30,000 sheep. As for any of the early owners, the collector was unable to come across any statistics relating to their occupancy of this run. The remaining one of the very few items the writer had about Dipton 's as follows:—“Mr Campbell, one of the fast vanishing band of pioneers, passed away at his home in West Dipton in June 1927. Bom in Ayrshire he came to the Bluff in 1863 and walked up to

the Mararoa Station. After remaining there a year or so, he got a position as head stockman and general overseer for the Morison Brothers of Dipton. He was the first man to turn a furrow at Dipton, the plough being drawn by four bullocks. He held his position on the run until he acquired a portion as a farm when the run was being cut up about 1885, and this portion he and his sons very successfully farmed.”

This newspaper clipping indicates the end of the old run as 1885. The first man who applied for it was a seacaptain, W. N. Millton, who did not go on with the project but went up to North Canterbury and took up the Okuku run. When Captain Millton died in 1889, his various stations were divided among his sons. P. L. Francis, who owned Dipton from 1863 to 1865, was also identified with Canterbury, where with his partner, Captain Muter, he owned several runs in the fifties. Muter rejoined his regiment in India and Francis came to Southland and became interested in several runs here. The careers of the other owners are unknown to the writer.