HANDLING AND BREAKING FARM HORSES

Southland Times, Issue 23182, 24 April 1937, Page 14

HANDLING AND BREAKING FARM HORSES

Something Every Farmer Should Know

With the advent of motor-cars, the rising generation, even farmers’ sons, are often remarkably ignorant of the breaking, training, and handling of horses. It is doubtful if the place the horse has so honestly filled on the farm in the past will ever be taken entirely by mechanical power. The farm team of horses, by reason of the fact that its units can be simultaheously used separately for many types of work, has advantages which are impossible with the tractor, says a writer in The New Zealand Farmer. In any case, even where tractors are used in preference to regular plough teams, it will always be found necessary to keep one or more horses of the draught type to do casual haulage. If this assumption is correct, it should still be an important part of the training of every farm hand and wouldbe farmer, to teach him not only how to harness, groom, feed, and work the well-broken farm horse or team, but how to handle, break to work, and train young draught horses. • The usual course pursued today is to send any young horse which may have been bred on the farm to a professional horsebreaker who, often enough, returns a broken-spirited, sullen brute, ready to kick, bolt or jib when opportunity offers, and compact of every vice which a horse can acquire. There are exceptions, of course, but even the best men who “break” horses for a fee have less interest in the outcome than the man who is going to work them day after day on the farm. Practical Horse-breaking When all is said and done, there is not much in horse-breaking beyond patience, kindness, common sense, and a knowledge of the work the horse will be called on to do. I have broken in a number of horses, both hacks and draughts, in years gone by, and although my methods may not be those employed by professionals, I do not remember ever having turned out a jibber or a kicker, and that justifies me in claiming that my procedue was not far wrong. Most men, when they take the education of young horses in hand, start with the assumption that all animals at birth possess hereditary vice, and that this vice must be thrashed out of them before they will become docile and dependable. No greater mistake can be made. The youngsters, when ready to handle, are certainly usually full of life and spirit, but it is only fear of the unknown that induces them to use their heels or teeth in defence of their liberty. No animal, unless it be a dog, is more sensitive to the emotions of its trainer and master than is the horse, and for this reason it is essential for the man who proposes to break-in his own animal to take the greatest care that under no circumstances does he lose his temper, become flurried or frightened, or act hastily. Confidence and patience are the mental attributes necessary. Yarding and Handling If the young horse has never been handled or taught to lead, the first business is to get him into a strong yard from which he cannot escape by jumping, nor damage himself on wire. A cattle yard, such as can be found on most farms and stations, is ideal. If a yard is not available and the horse is unapproachable in the open paddock, he may have to be roped and thrown to get him haltered, but this should be avoided if at all possible. A quiet old horse is the best decoy with which to yard the youngster, and the less fuss and noise employed in getting them into the yard the better. Once they are in, the old horse should be removed, and the trainer, with a light stick about six or seven feet long, should commence his job. Some breakers use a stock-whip in place of the stick, hut I have found the latter serve every purpose, at least during the first day. First of all walk quietly about the yard until the horse gets used to your being there. Stop any rushes past you which the youngster may attempt by holding out the stick, or, if necessary, rapping him on the nose with it. When he has quietened down, in the course of half an hour or so, approach his head confidently, but quietly, holding out

your stick toward him. Talk to him all the time, and on no account take your eyes off his, for this is a great factor in inspiring confidence in the animal. If at this stage the horse breaks away before you can rub him with the stick, give him a light rap over the nose as he makes the break, and start your approaches over again. If he should turn his heels, however, give him a sharp rap over the rump and use every endeavour to have him always facing you. Getting the Halter On

Once you have got your stick on the horse, rub him with it down the neck and shoulder, all the while approaching his head until you are standing close beside him. On no account lift your left hand up until you are close enough to pat and rub the horse. It may be necessary to repeat this approach several times before the horse has gained enough confidence in you to allow you to rub his head behind the ears, and from there work the left hand down until you have it resting on his nose just above his nostrls. Just before this stage is reached the stick should have been quietly dropped, and the right hand be employed securing the end of the 12-foot light rope previously tucked under your belt. If the handling so far has been good, the horse will now allow you, while still keeping your left hand on his nose where it can be closed firmly if he makes an attempt to get away, to pass a double thickness of rope over his neck, round the stalk, and slip the loop over his nose. This will serve as a satisfactory temporary halter. From now on spend the rest of the first day’s training in rubbing the horse all over with a body brush, being careful to make no abrupt movements; also try picking up the horse’s front feet, though it is doubtful if he will allow this the first day. Leave a headstall on him, and feed him well when the day’s handling has finished, and when you approach him next morning you will find he has lost most of his fear of your handling. Teaching to Lead The business for the second day is to teach the horse to lead. If he does not follow you easily and naturally with the halter only, pass your long light rope through the bit-ring on the headstall round under his tail, and back through, the bit-ring on the other Side. Connect the ropes over his back with a loose loop of cord to prevent them dangling down his sides, or, better still, pass them through the rings of a surcingle if you have one. A slight pull on the rope—or on one end of it if he is stubborn—will make him follow you anywhere on a slack rein in a very short time, and at the same time get him used to the feel of a crupper. When he is thoroughly easy to lead, put a heavy bit in his mouth, and tie this back lightly and evenly to the rope which passes round under his tail. Do not tie him back too hard; just enough to make him feel the bit; and be sure that the pull on each side of the bit is even. While he is getting, used to the bit,- grooming and foot-lifting may be continued. When the horse is thoroughly used to the restraining influence of the bit, take him out into a flat paddock and run him round you for an hour or so, first with the rope on one side of the bit and then on the other. This is the first occasion in his training when a whip may be necessary to make him trot round and round, but it must be used very lightly. Teaching Him to Pull Driving round for an hour or two with both reins, collar and hames, saddle and britchen if possible on also, is the next proceeding, and when the youngster is quite happy in this environment and answers well to the reins, supplemented by the usual words of command, it is permissable to hitch his traces —leather preferred—to a light swingle-tree which is securely fastened to a light log. An hour or two in this will teach him the feel of the collar and harness, and give him the idea of pulling. He can then be transferred to a light sledge, which, as he progresses can be loaded, and so on to his ultimate place in the plough team or dray.