FOR THE COOK

Southland Times, Issue 22915, 13 June 1936, Page 16

FOR THE COOK

The Pastry Family Every cook likes to feel that she has a light touch with pastries, and for this reason the first aim of the beginner is to acquire a certain degree of skill. In spite of the traditional respect with which this branch of cookery is esteemed, there should be no reason why the veriest novice should not achieve success from the start, provided she is prepared to pay due attention to fundamentals, and commence with the humbler members. The pastry family can be said to cover the main branches of cookery, figuring as it does from cocktails to coffee, but the scope of this article is intended for assistance in the preparation of the crisper crusts. All these pastries are assembled from a foundation of fat and household flour, but the proportion and type of shortening should be noted carefully from the recipe in each case. Coolness is an essential for all pastry work, and to ensure this, stand in a cool position, use cool utensils, and really cold, fresh drawn water for mixing; these small points tell in the end. A marble slab is excellent for this job. All working of the dough must be sparing and light, from the fingertips, as overhandling and rolling can soon cause toughness in the paste. The aim is to enclose cold air in the mixing, which will expand with the oven heat, producing a light, well-risen crust. This brings us to the question of oven temperature. All pastries require a hot oven, to “set” the crust without softening the fat. A moderately hot oven, 350 F. (Regulo mark 7), is best for an average short crust pastry at first, gradually reducing the heat as the crust sets and begins to brown. Richer pastries need a hotter oven, according to their fat content, usually from 400450 F. (Regulo marks 8 and 9, to start, with a gradual reduction as cooking progresses. Now for a few members of the family. The inexperienced cook would be wise to commence her pastry activities with the basic working member, the unassuming short crust, so that she gains confidence in handling doughs, and rolling with light, even pressure. This last accomplishment will ensure progress with the more frivolous sisters—the puff varieties. Short Crust. Short crust is the mainstay of all culinary effort, and it is equally suitable for sweet or savoury purposes. Working on the basis of fat proportion to flour, it will be found that half the weight of flour taken in fat is a very satisfactory rule. Hence—half a pound of flour would need four ounces of shortening. (If less fat is used, a little baking powder should be included to lighten the dough.) The fat can be in the form of butter, margarine, lard or clarified dripping. Excellent results are obtained from using a mixture of lard and margarine, in equal quantities. Salt can be added in the degree of one teaspoon for every pound of flour.

In general method, the fat is cut up in the flour with a knife, then rubbed quickly with the finger-tips until the mixture appears like sieved breadcrumbs. Then it is mixed with cold water, stirred evenly with the knife, until the whole binds to a firm paste. After folding out the cracks on a lightly floured board, it should be rolled out to the required size. More than one rolling of the dough should be avoided, to enjoy the best results. Once the art of producing short crust has become second nature, there are some near relations to meet—Biscuit Crust and Cheese Crust. The first is useful for sweet and savoury tartlets of Continental type, flan tarts, etc. while the second is a working base for straws and biscuits, and the myriad variations of savouries arising therefrom.

For biscuit pastry it is best to use butter, or a good margarine, on account of the flavour. It is used in half proportion as before, the yolk of an egg being included for enrichment, in the mixing liquid. For sweet purposes, a little castor sugar, mixed with the flour, produces a crisper crust. Cheese Pastry is made with short

crust method, using equal weight of fat to flour, the fat being half in soft fat, butter or margarine, and half in grated cheese. To increase the shortening, a little yolk of egg can be added in mixing. Good seasoning is an important factor here, and dry mustard and cayenne pepper are useful additions to the flour, with the ever essential salt. Rather moderate ovens are best for cheese crusts, as well as careful timing of the cooking. They should be a golden straw shade when fully fired. There comes a time in culinary experience when the flaked varieties make greater appeal. This is when more decorative pies and patties are required. The two most popular “puft” sisters are Flaky and Rough Puff. The proportion of fat taken for these can be about three-quarters to the weight of flour, for good results, using mixed fats (margarine and lard) for the flaky type, and all butter for the rough puff. With the larger fat content, the addition of a little lemon juice to the mixing water will counteract the richness. Though the ingredients are so similar, the method of mixing differs considerably. In the case of flaky crust, the fat is divided into four parts, and one of these rubbed into the flour as in short pastry. Then the dough is mixed with lemon juice and water to an elastic consistency, and rolled out to a straight strip, three times longer by width. . , „ , , One portion of the fat is then flaked on to the surface of the pastry, two thirds of the area from the top edge, so that one third of the strip remains clear of fat. This bottom portion is folded back on the fat, and the remaining third folded down, exactly dividing the strip into thirds. The edges are sealed by pressure from the rolling pin, and the pastry given a half turn to the left, ready for the next rolling. This process is repeated twice more, with the remaining portions of fat, and after the last folding, the paste can be set aside in a cool place ready for use. „ In all there should be five rollings to produce the requisite number of fine flakes in the crust. Rough Puff. Rough puff pastry is slightly quicker to make, but some practice in pastry work is needed for successful manipulation. The butter is cut up roughly in the flour, to the size of a walnut, and then all mixed to an elastic consistency as before. After binding together on the board, the dough is rolled out in the same way as for flaky crust, with five rolll " g ® and turns in all. At the fifth rolling out, Hie dough should be cut for baking. This pastry is very uselul lor little patty cases, comets, mince-pies, and many elaborations on the party th lSter on the enthusiastic cook will want to try her hand with the more sophisticated Puff Pastry. e J e > tice in manipulation is bound to tell and after seasoned experience with the simpler varieties, she will find that flour and fat, in equal proportion, can be cajoled into the most exciting combinations under skilled handling and ultra cool conditions. I need not add how useful a refrigerator can be for storage between rollings—seven in all. With this little family group quite a varied repertoire becomes possible, and thdugh life is not sustained by pastry alone, it can supply much interest and lightness in our menus.