Crochet Edging for Towels and Pillow Slips

Southland Times, Issue 21853, 2 November 1932, Page 5

Crochet Edging for Towels and Pillow Slips

Among the most satisfactory household linens for decoration with crocheted edgings and insertions are towels and pillow cases. Lace No. 1 makes a very attractive towel end and is easily done. Ch. 9, Ist row: 1 tr. in 4th st. from hook, 1 tr. each in next 2sts., ch. 2. tr. each in last 3sts. 2nd row: ch. 3, 3 tr. into ch.2 of last row, ch.2, 3 tr. into same loop. 3rd row: ch.s, 3 tr., ch.2, 3 tr. in ch.2 loop of last row, skip 3 tr., 1 tr. in last st. 4th row: ch. 3. 3 tr., ch.2. 3 tr. in ch.2 loop at, ch. 3, 1 tr. in end loop of row below, repeat from * 4 times in same loop, sl.st. into end st. of Ist row. sth row: into each sp. (space; open mesh) just made work 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 1 tr., 1 d.c., 1 s.c., then ch. 3, 3 tr., ch. 3, 3 tr. in center ch.2 of last row, 1 tr. on end. Continue from 2nd row.

For a narrow insertion to match this, but not illustrated here, ch. 10, in ch. first made make 1 d.c., ch. 2, 1 d.c. Second row: turn, ch. 5, 3 d.c. over ch. 2, ch. 1, 3 d.c. in same ch., 1 d.c. in 2nd ch. after d.c. Third row: turn, ch 6, in center of shell make 1 d.c. 2 ch., 1 d.c. Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows for desired length. Then fasten thread in lower edge of first shell, * ch. 5, s. c. into edge of next shell, repeat from * to end. For the lace in Fig. 2, ch. 7. Ist row: 3 tr. in sth st. from hook, and in next 2 sts., ch. 5, 1 d.c. in first ch. st. 2nd row: ch. 5, si. st., into 3rd st of ch, for picot (pt.), 3 d.c., 1 pt., 3 d.c., 1 pt., 3 d.c. in ch. 5 loop of last row; ch. 1, 1 d.c. in first tr., * ch. 1, 1 d.c. in next st. * repeat once, ch. 5, 1 d.c. in last tr. 3rd row: ch. 4, 9 tr. over ch. 5 of last row, ch. 5, d.c. into 3rd st. on last row. Repeat these two rows the desired length. Tubing is recommended for pillow cases and the best quality is a wise purchase. Tubing is woven round and round so there is no lengthwise seam in the slip, and when it begins to show wear in one place, the seam at the end can be ripped out and the case stitched up again so the worn places come at the folds. This brings the best parts to the middle and makes pillow cases wear about twice as long as those made of sheeting and stitched along one edge by the old-fashioned method. Pillows 20 inches wide and 28 long require tubing known as 42-inch. and the cases should be 38J or 40J inches long if they are to approximate standard size. A 22-by-28-inch pillow requires the 45-inch width of tubing. For extra-size pillows, the standard 24- and 26-inch width, slips should be made of the 50- or 54-inch width of tubing.

The open end of the -ase is shaped according to the edge one intends to put on it. For the application of a straight edge, the material is torn, then it is hemstitched about an inch from the edge and parellel thereto, and the material is cut away close to the hemstitching so the first row of crocheting can go into the holes. Or the edge is hemmed, either by hand or with hemstitching at the head. Attractive pillow slips are made with scalloped or pointed edges, an equal number of scallops or points being cut in each end of the case. To make a pattern, cut a strip of paper as long as the pillow tubing is wide and about 4 inches deep. Fold it end to end until the sections are about the width desired for the scallops. Trim one edge of the paper to the desired shape, then open it full length and use it as a pattern. See that the torn edges of the tubing lie perfectly even, then pin on the paper so the scallops come about half an inch from the edge of the material, and trace around them with a pencil. If carbon paper is placed under the edge, both sides of the pillow slip will be marked at the same time. Lacking this, a tracing wheel may be used, then the perforations followed with the pencil. After the case has been hemstitched along the line indicating the scallops trim away excess material and crochet directly into the holes. A pretty and simple edge for such B scalloped slip may be made as follows: First row: 1 single crochet in each hole of hemstitching. 2nd row: chain 5, 1 double crochet in Ist stitch, * 1 d.c. in 4th st. (2sts. between,, ch. 3, 1 d.c. in same st., repeat from •. 3r drew: start in ch. 3 with 1 s.c., * 3 d.c. in next ch. 3, 3 d.c. in same ch., 1 slip stitch in next ch. 3, repeat from *. At comers, make sl.st. in each of 3 chs., instead of the scallop in the center ch. For the edge (Fig. 3) chain 16. Ist row: 4 d.c. in 6th st. from hook, 3 spaces. To form a space, make 1 d.c. ch. 2, skip 2 sts. of previous row, make another d.c. 2nd row: turn, ch. 5, 4sps. * making last d.c. in Ist d.c. of last row, 3 d.c. in sp., ch. 2, 1 d.c. in same sp. to make increase at top edge *. Repeat between *s to increase on this end of 4th and 6th row. 3rd row: ch. 5, 3 d.c. in increased sp. of last row, 1 d.c. in Ist d.c., 1 sp., 3 blocks—work d.c. in top of as many sts. of previous row as required for size of block —1 sp. 4th row; ch. 5, 1 sp., 3 bls., 2 sp., increase as for 2nd row. sth row: ch. 5, 3 d.c’. into sp, 1 d.c. in Ist d.c., 3 sps., 3 bls, 1 sp. 6th row: ch. 5, 8 sps.. increase as for 2nd row. Continue scallop desired length. Edge, attach thread at end of Ist row. * 2 s.c. in sp., in next sp. 1 s.c., 1 picot, 1 s.c., * repeat between *s twice and in center sp. work 2 more pts. with s.c. between, work thus around edge omitting picot in comer between scallops. For these picots, chain 3 and fasten in the first stitch of the chain.

Insertion (Fig. 4) makes a handsome pillow case if the added hem is well proportioned. To make this, ch. 30. Ist row: 1 d.c. in 4th st. from hook, sp., bl., sp., 3 d.c. in next 3 sts., * space, reverse from * ending 2 d.c. 2nd row: ch. 3, d.c. in 2nd d.c., ch. 5, skip sp. and 3 d.c. of last row, 2 bls., sp. over sp., 2 bls., ch. 5, skip 3 d.c. and sp., end 2 d.c. 3rd row: ch. 3, 1 d.c. in 2nd d.c., ch. 3, skip 3,2 d.c. in ch. 5 of last row, 2 bls. 1 sp. 2 bls., 2 d.c. in ch. 5, ch. 3, skip 3, end 2 d.c. 4th row: ch. 3, 1 d.c. in 2nd d.c.. sp.. 2 d.c. in sp. of last row, 2 bls., * 2 sp. reverse from *, and 2 d.c. sth row: ch. 3, 1 d.c. in 2nd d.c., sp. 2 bls., 1 sp. 1 d.c., * 1 d.c. over d.c., reverse from ♦, end 2 d.c. Repeat from beginning of pattern.