DOUBTFUL SOUND

Southland Times, Issue 21658, 21 March 1932, Page 8

DOUBTFUL SOUND

BEACHED IN ONE DAY LAUNCH TRIP UP LOVELY MANAPOURI OVERLAND TO THE COAST Breakfast in Invercargill and tea in Doubtful Sound! Most people would imagine that this could be accomplished only by an aviator. The ordinary man when he hears a holiday in the Sounds mentioned conjures up visions of a week’s walking and a bill of £2O. Yet it is not only possible to leave Invercargill by car in the morning and reach Doubtful Sound in the evening, but even moderate walkers can do this without undue exertion or great cost. - Doubtful Sound in addition to being one of the most beautiful of the West Coast sounds is also the most accessible, and it is surprising that more people do not visit it. If a departure is made from Invercargill at 6 a.m. the accommodation house at Manapouri can comfortably be reached by 9 a.m., the road being in very goal order. From 9.15 to 11.30 is occupied by the launch trip up the lake. Half an hour is allowed for lunch and the walk of eleven miles begins. At 3 p.m. the hut on the pass is reached, allowance being made for several spells. Half an hour is devoted to afternoon tea and another three hours and a half easy brings one to the Sound. A whole day is devoted to seeing the Sound and the return trip is made to Invercargill on the third day. The cost, excluding transport from Invercargill to Manapouri, range.-, from £2 15/- to £4 according to the time of the year and the number of the party. Up the Lake. The trip up the lake in the launch is full of interest, be the day wet or fine. On wet days there are beautiful waterfalls in all directions, and the mist and drifting clouds lend an air of mystery and enchantment not always existing on a sunny day. The temperature is much above that of Invercargill and the air is remarkably pure and exhilarating. Yet the heat is never oppressive. One has travelled almost across New Zealand and the difference in climate between closely contiguous districts makes one realize how narrow' the Dominion really is. Manapouri, admittedly the most beautiful of all New Zealand lakes, is full of islands and promontories. The launch winds in and out of these, sometimes a few feet from .a sheer precipice hundreds of feet high, at other times cruising between beautiful wooded islets surrounded by dazzling white beaches. The mountains on either side, towering in majesty to 6000 ft, are clothed from the base to 3000 ft with soft green bush, principally beech, but relieved with the yellow-green rimus and intermedium pine. After a little over two hours journey the head of the lake is reached, the South Arm and North Arm, both considerable fiords, having been passed en route. Through the Forest. The billy is soon boiling in the hut at the end of the lake and a picnic meal partaken of. Then comes the exhilarating walk to the Sound. For a few miles the track follows the Spey River, a brawling mountain stream .which affords many beautiful vistas. The track is several feet wide, with a firmer track in the middle worn down by the tramping of many feet. After forty minutes’ walking the Mica Burn is crossed by a suspension bridge. Single log bridges span all the other creeks. The first four miles of comparatively easy walking having been accomplished, the track takes a steeper gradient, leaving the Spey Valley and entering that of the Dashwood. The roar of the Spey gradually disappears and a spell at the old Public Works camp gives one renewed energy for the climb up the Dashwood Valley to the mid-camp hut.

The silence of the primeval forest is again disturbed by the noise of rushing waters, this time it being the Dashwood whose roar is heard. In addition 'to the beautiful crepe fems clumps of ourisias (the New Zealand foxglove) are found, these lending a touch of bright colour. The rainfall in this region is fairly high and the track is liable to be muddy in places, but logs laid down at convenient intervals afford dry walking. After some pretty vertical rock faces have been skirted, mid-camp hut is reached. This is an iron structure situated more than 2000 ft. above sea level. There is a welcome spell while the billy is boiled and afternoon tea served. This halting place is just under the bushline and in January and February thousands of ribbonwoods with theif cherry-like, snowy masses of bloom scent the air. There are also the New Zealand holly and other flowering shrubs, while mountain daisies and occasional mountain lilies show that the altitude is high. . Shortly after the walk is resumed the top of the pass is reached. It is considerably lower than the McKinnon Pass on the Milford Track and there is no danger in crossing it and little chance of snow being on it. A splendid view of the Sound is obtained from here; then the descent begins. The change in the vegetation is striking. Tall tree ferns and mixed coastal forest, with a great many more sorts of shrubs and, lower down, the stately mamakau tree fern with its huge leaves, demonstrate the mildness of the climate. The cabbage tree seen is the beautiful broad leafed indivisa. These last two plants cannnot be grown in many places in Southland because they do not tolerate cold conditions. The track runs alongside the Pass creek, a noisy stream which runs into the Livia. After the head of the flat is reached the path winds along the bank of the Livia through hundreds of beautiful tree ferns, some 30ft high. The easy walking is appreciated, and tired, hungry, but happy, the tourist reaches his destination while the sun is still high in the heavens. A wash in hot water, a change of footgear and he is ready for the substantial and appetising meal for which mine host, who is also the cook, is famous. His batch of newly baked scones melt like snow in summer. At the Sound. One of the first things noticed on arrival is the dull boom of the Helena Falls, which are 800 ft in height and which are clearly visible from the hut. If a heavy fall of rain has proceeded one’s visit, the falls are indeed magnificent. Sandflies may annoy one if rain is imminent; but on line days they are scarcely noticeable. In any case they do not invade the hut, nor are they encountered on the boat on the Sound. The launch is-kept in a sheltered pool in the Levia River and as soon as the tide permits in the morning a start is made on an exploration of the Sound. If one is lucky one gets marvellous reflections on the water which is often like a mirror. The 35ft launch is fast and it does not take long to traverse the distance between Deep Cove and the entrance to Hall’s Ann. At the entrance there is a beautiful little round, bush-cov-ered island called Rolla, and almost immediately there leaps into view a picture which those competent to judge say is not a whit inferior to Milford Sound. This is the famous Hall’s Arm, where in former years when the U.S.S. Company’s excursions were run regattas used to be held. Davidson’s Head is a most extraordinary mountain 4000 ft high with an enormous vertical face guarding the entrance to Hall’s Arm. The Arm- has at intervals short beaches where mountain streams come in. The deltas of these streams are practically the only fishing grounds. The launch goes right on to the end of Hall’s Arm which really is a sound in itself. At the end a wonderful collection of snowy peaks comes into view. After the launch has swept round the full extent of the end of the Arm it is usual for it to be stopped at the'first shallow ground so that the party may have an opportunity to

fish. All sorts of fishes are liable to be caught, including pretty but bony ,“Jock Stewarts,” groper ranging from 25Jb .to 50 lb, blue cod up to lj)lb, terahaki and an occasional sft or 6ft shark. Porpoises are regular visitors to the Sound and sometimes the water is red in places with whale feed.

Occasionally at night the rather rare phenomenon of phosphorescence causes every drop of water to sparkle. After all films are exhausted and an aching void has become manifest, the boat’s nose is turned for home, the hut being reached at about 6 p.m. Then early to bed in comfortable bunks, with plenty of blankets and, in spite of the remoteness, clean, white sheets. Those who are not good sleepers will hear during the night the whistle of the kiwi, and in season the dull boom of the kakapo and the shriek of the longtailed cuckoo. Wekas are very common several round the hut coming to be fed at meal time.

Unless those in the party are experienced walkers, it -is usual to make an early start next morning. The trip back provides views not seen on the way up, and never for 1 a moment does the walking seem monotonous. The Manapouri accommodation house is reached before'6 p.m., a good dinner is eagerly devoured and The lights of Invercargill began to flash by before 10 p.m. In three days one has gone from almost the east coast to the west coast of New Zealand and back; and one has seen Nature in her full glory. ,