THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 20446, 26 March 1928, Page 5

THE GARDEN

WORK FOR THE WEEK (By J. A. McPherson.) THE GREENHOUSE. Continue to pay attention to begonias by feeding and removing female flowers from double varieties. Should there be any sign of greenfly fumigate the house on a dull evening or early morning before the sun becomes too strong. Calceolarias are plants which are constantly attacked by this insect. If not checked in the early stages it is difficult to keep the plant clean. Hydrangeas which have finished blooming may be set outside in a sheltered position to ripen off the plants before cutting them back. Freesias may now be planted in six inch pots for early blooming in the spring. Make the comfort of good turfy loam with the addition of some sand and fine cow manure. Fill the pots half full of this mixture, firm it, and place ten to twelve good big Freesia bulbs into the mixture; fill up the pot to within half an inch of the top firming the soil as you proceed. Place the pots in a cool frame and allow them to come slowly away, at the same time being very sparing on the watering until the leaves appear above the soil. Do not be in too big a hurry to bring the pots into the greenhouse, it only results in long and sickly foliage.

THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue to pay attention to the herbaceous border, staking plants where required and removing spent annuals and flower stalks. Autumn flowering chrysanthemums should now be coming into bloom. Autumn sown sweet peas may now be planted. One of the secrets of success with this favourit eflower is proper preparation of the ground. Thoroughly trench the ground adding well rotted manure to the second spit. Sow the seeds thinly. At this time of the year sweet peas are not so liable to attacks of slugs as in the spring time. If the ground caunot be prepared in time sow the seeds in boxes or three inch pots and plant out in early spring. Tulips, Narcissi, Crocus, Anemones, Ranunculus, Snowdrops and Scillas may now be planted in well prepared ground. Tulips like a rich moist soil and should be planted in a warm situation. Where possible plant Narcissus in grass; but not in a situation where the grass requires early cutting, this only weakens the bulbs for next season. Rain is badly needed for all parts of the garden, especially to carry out the work of wrenching trees, shrubs, and wallflowers. It would be unwise to attempt it while the soil is so dry. Finish the trimming of hedges and burn all clippings, the wood ash and chacoal obtained may be stored dry for sprinkling in the potting soil, or it may be beneficially spread over and dug into heavy soils. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Take advantage of the continued dry weather and hoe out all weeds. Should rhubarb be required for forcing lift a few good crowns and place them in a cool dry shed for a few days. This acts as a check before starting them again. Place a few crowns under the benches in a warm greenhouse from time to time. They may also be grown in sheds by placing them on top of a heap of soil, placing small barrels over them and covering the crowns with a sprinkling of soil. Water well and cover over with bags and sacks. When forced out of doors, it will be necessary to place straw over them inside the barrels, and pile manure round the outside of the barrels. Celery may now have its first earthing up; but see that the plants have plenty of water before doing so. As soon as potato tops commence to turn yellow it will be necessary to dig them, especially after such a dry spell as we have experienced. Should the weather break and continue cold and wet for several days, the potatoes are inclined to sprout. This does them harm. Potatoes required for exhibition purposes, should be wrapped in paper as soon as they are dug, and placed in a cool dry place. A few days before the show they may be washed in tepid water to which a little soap has been added. At this stage the final selection can be made. Dry each tuber with a soft cloth and again wrap in paper till placed on the show benches. When storing the tubers care must be taken not to include diseased ones. Potatoe blight has taken very light toll of crops this season compared with last season, due mainly to the continued dry weather. A full account of the potatoe blight will be given when dealing with the selection of tubers for seed.

MUSHROOMS. The cultivation of this edible fungus (Agaricus campestris) is often undertaken with profitable results to the grower. Mushrooms as we see them sold in the shops, are mostly collected in the fields during Autumn. But a continual supply may be obtained by growing them in a corner of the garden, on properly prepared beds. Manure for preparing the bottom heat must come from horses only and most growers are careful that it is obtained from healthy animals only. Collect a fair quantity of short manure but spread it out so that it does not become heated while the required quantity is being gathered together. Choose a warm dry sheltered spot in the garden and so build the manure into a mound 3ft wide at the base and curving upwards on two sides until a height of three feet is reached. The manure must now be carefully worked. When moulding it up the first time, see that it is thoroughly damped. As soon as the bulk becomes heated turn it over being careful to place Ihe outside of the heap into the centre. In a few more days again turn it so that the heap has a uniform temperature throughout. This turning which may even be required three times, saves the heap from over heating. When the temperature begins to fall the bed may be said to be ready for spawning. Mushroom bricks or blocks may be obtained ! from the seedsman for two shillings each. Break the brick in pieces, the size of a walnut, and force them into the manure six inches apart. In four days time cover the heap with a layer inches in thickness of heavy soil obtained, if possible, from land which has been in grass for several years. Damp with hike warm water and pat down with the back of a spade. Next cover the heap with a good layer of straw, and, should the weather become very frosty or wet, a cover of scrim can be thrown over on top of the straw. Moisten occasionally with warm water and mushrooms may be expected to appear in about six to seven weeks and continue bearing for about seven to eight weeks. When gathering the crop each day do not cut the stems, but give them a gentle twist. The cutting of stems leaves a porton to rot and injure the living mycelium of the fungus. The indoor cultivation of mushrooms in dark cellars and sheds, is less difficult. Recently many of the disued cellars of large breweries in America, have been used for this purpose. The housewife may detect poisonous fungi much resembling mushrooms when they are being cooked. When a silver spoon or coin is placed in the pot and not discoloured, the preparation may be regarded as safe but if discoloured there is ground for suspicion. PREPARING AND RENOVATING LAWNS. Dry weather has hindered the proper working of the soil this season and unless conditions are favourable within the next two weeks, it would be advisable to leave the sowing down of lawns until the early spring. Provided there is proper drainage it is not necessary to trench ground before laying a lawn. In fact it is better to retain every portion of the surface, since it has been properly weathered and sweetened by

air and sunshine. New ground is often used for an early potato crop before being sown down finally in lawn grasses. When levelling see that all hollows are properly filled in and firmed, for this purpose it will be necessary to tramp it f evenly as raking proceeds. Too much i tramping cannot be given it this dry i weather. Tramping is a longer process 1 than rolling; but on small lawns it is more i effective than when the roller is used. 3 Should the soil still appear acid after being - weathered, a topdressing of lime as the t final surface is being prepared will prove . beneficial. In the spring it can then be . given a topdressing of some suitable arti- . ficial manure. r The quantity of seed used for ordinary lawns is 1 lb to 17 square yards; but if a l fine close turf is required, 1 lb to every > 12 square yards will be necessary. Seeds- > men will supply good lawn grass which usually contains a little clover; but where special lawns are being laid down special t mixtures are required, especially for croquet , greens, bowling greens and putting greens. , These special lawns will not be dealt with in these notes, since many factors, such as situation, condition of local soils, previous grass covering, etc., must all be taken' into ’ consideration, and the grasses required are not usually contained in ordinary lawn grass seed. It will be noted that the clover does not come away well in autumn sown lawns. In nine cases out of ten, as soon as the grass has become high enough it is cut with the lawnmower. This is entirely

detrimental to its growth. Do not be in any hurry to mow; but when the grass is four inches high cut it with a scythe. Rolling of young lawns for the first year is essential; but do not roll when the ground is wet, as this packs the soil too hard and crack# appear in the summer time. Us% a light roller in preference to a heavy one, even though it entails a little more work. Refiling when the ground is moderately dry is best, because the particles of soil crumble into the hollows and the lawn retains a healthy aerated state. Be particularly careful to remove all weeds the first season, this will save a lot of labour during the next few years. Be particularly careful that daisies, even the smallest rootlets are cut out. If they flower and the flowers miss being caught in the grass box, the seeds, though not mature, have the power of growing and the plant will spread rapidly. An old stiff | pronged table fork is useful for digging out ' weeds. Now let us turn to old dawns and see how they can be renovated. In hollow places where the turf has sunk, it is advisable to lift the turf and, pack underneath with fine soil. Many weeds can be killed by the application of lawn sand. This is easily made at home and is less expensive than bought preparations. Procure half a pound of sulphate of iron, one and a half pounds of sulphate of ammonia and 10 to 12 pounds of fine dry sand. Grind into a very fine powder and mix thoroughly. Spread the preparation evenly over the lawn at the rate of two to four ounces to the square yard. This will not only enrich the ground, but kill daisies and other weeds. Often the edges of lawns become worn and bare. In such a case cut out the turf in twelve inch squares and replace them after turning the good side to the outer edge. Bare patches in the lawn may be returfed; but never in dry weather as the cut turf shrinks and the grasses suffer. The chief cause of moss on lawns is bad drainage. Attend to the drainage first, then rake out with an iron rake as much of the moss as possible. Next water the lawn with a 5 per cent, solution of sulphate of iron, following in a few days with a 3 per cent, solution of nitrate of soda. When topderssing lawns on sandy soil make the compost of old dung or good rich soil. Soil from the bottom of an old watercourse, if thoroughly sweetened, is very beneficial. Heavy soils on the other hand are better top-dressed with compost into which a fair percentage of sand has been mixed. Never use phosphate manures in the topdressing of very fine lawns, they only induce the growth of clover. LAWN PLANTS OTHER THAN GRASSES. Three other plants come to my mind, and are mostly used for special purposes in connection with lawns, namely Achilles Millejoluim (the common yarrow) and two New Zealand native plants, Hydricatyle and , Cotula dioica. The last two are extremely used on bowling greens while the common yarrow, a pest in private lawns, is very useful in parks where foot traffic tramps out the grass. It also stands drought very well. GARDEN DESIGN.

In a week or two the heavy work connected with gardens will commence. Old gardens may require a thorough overhaul, while new gardens will require to be laid off to give the outside furnishings the finishing touch to newly erected residences. Where space permits, portion may be entirely devoted to one special class of plant; for example, the rose enthusiast will undoubtly make his biggest showing with his favourite flower; but there is no reason why other portions of his garden may not be attractive. In fact, the setting provided for the rose garden is an essential point to remember, forwithout a suitable setting much of the richness of the rose garden is lost. The limiting factor in most gardens, especially in the towns, is space. However, by judicious planting of suitable subjects, it is really surprising the effects one can obtain in a restricted area. Let us consider for a moment a small piece of ground on which a comfortable modern bungalow of five to seven rooms has been erected. By modern, I do not refer to the inside finish of the house; but trust that its design has allowed for a eun porch or balcony leading off from a bedroom, both designed in such a manner as to receive the maximum amount of sunshine. From these we are better enabled to appreciate our garden and spend more of our time in the open air. It must naturally follow that, in many respects our house becomes part of the garden, and the garden, properly designed, part of the house. If this point can be thoroughly grasped, it is easily seen how the one becomes the complement of the other and leads to a really fine and comfortable home. No apology Is therefore necessary for laying stress on the design of the house, for it points out, that since the house makes a background for most small gardens, it is essential to take its appearance into consideration, since its appearance has a decided effect on the lay out of the grounds in the immediate vicinity. The flower garden will naturally be situated around the house, while the vegetable and fruit garden either separate or combined, placed a little further afield. Shelter from prevailing winds should be the first object in view when planting commences. Where space will permit macrocarpa serves this purpose well; but being such a greedy plant it is not admirable for very small gardens, and it may be found necessary to substitute Escallonia. Olearia or Holly for hedges. Very small sections may not eyen permit the planting of a hedge. If such is the case, there is no reason why dividing fences should be left bare and ugly. In the vegetable garden gooseberries and currants can be beneficially trained against them, while in the flower garden they can be quickly covered with hardy creepers and trailing shrubs, for example, variegated Ivy, Clematis in variety, Ampelopsis, Roses, etc. for creepers, while Cotoneasters in variety and Pyrus japonica may be cited as trailing shrubs. This is one instance of making the most of a given piece of ground. Small hedges of closely trimmed white Escallonia, and Lonicera nitida a plant too little seen in the gardens may be used to divide the garden into sec-

tions, failing these, lattice work and trellis fences properly covered with creepers will suffice and to some people be more pleasing. A picturesque garden does not permit of one standing near the house and seeing it all at a glance Paths, whether solid or in grass, should lead to some definite object, either to a doorway or garden seat or to the lawn. When they lead to a dead end, for example straight through the garden to an uglydividing fence, one instantly feels a sense of incompleteness of design. The unavoid-

able, yet valuable rubbish and compost heap may easily be hidden by a small narrow hedge or trellis and where space permits, by suitable shrubs. The planting of carefully selected small trees rand shrubs adds dignity and grace to the garden. Where space is limited flowering Prunus and thorns may be used while the shrubs can be selected from the following, Cotomeasters, Berberis, Spiraeas, Buddleias Tamarix etc. many of the Cotoneasters and Berberis supplying both autumn foliage and ornamental berries. Nothing is more restful in the flower garden than a well kept lawn. When breaking in new ground for this purpose it is advisable to take a crop of potatoes off the site for the first year. This greatly assists the ground besides getting rid of many weeds. It can then be sown down in early autumn. The space between the running tracks from the entrance gates to the garage has within the last few years been put to good advantage. Usually it is the custom to plant this long narrow border with crocus, violas and pansies; but may I suggest another method of planting. Why not fill it with dwarf alpines. Many alpine plants do not require a rockery to grow in, and would do quite well along such a border provided it is well drained and a few flat stones and screenings are used to keep the leaves of tender subjects off the wet ground. The following alpine plants will prove useful for this purpose: Dianthus alpinus, D. neglectus, I). superbus, Armeria caespitosa, Aubretia, Auricula, Campanula carpatica, Gypsophila repens, Lithospermum prostratum, Nertera, Primula farinosa, Saxifrages in variety, Tunica saxifraga, and the list could be still further lengthened. Much of the foregoing remarks apply to small gardens, where space permits much more can be accomplished. Furnishing under large groups of trees is often neglected and various effects may be obtained by planting Holly, Yew and Butcher’s Broom all of which stand the shade well. Dry parts of herbaceous borders overhung by large trees may be beneficially planted with Sedum spectable, Gazania, Hypericum calycinum, Agapanthus and Calandula, plants which thrive and flower under dry conditions. Where a moist corner occurs near the shade of deciduous trees, wonderful effects may be obtained by planting groups of the hardy Chinese and Himalayan primulas, such as Primula japonica, P. Sikkimensis, P. denticulata, P. cashmeriana, P. bulleyana, P. burnianica and Mimulus. Narcissus may also be planted in drifts beneath trees and where the grass is permanently short crocus will thrive very well. Pleasing effects are always obtained by taking advantage of any natural features of the ground. Room may be found on a gentle slope for an alpine garden through which a winding path leads to a terrace above. Such a setting is really delightful. When dealing with rockeries and alpine gardens, do not attempt to build a mound of unsightly stopes packed together with soil and call it a. rockery. Nothing is more hideous and unsightly. Should something be required to heighten any portion of the garden, try a bird bath on pedestal, or a sundial. Dwarf conifers too add dignity to the scene. Gardens, whether large or small must provide not only bright blooms of individual plants, that alone is not sufficient, but a sense of restfulness as one enters them. A brilliant display of bloom is not garden design. Try to attain by judicious planting, a restful quiet dignity in' the garden about the home. Such must be the aim before the garden can be termed a true delight. All seasons have their respective plants in bloom, so that continuity of bloom must be attained. It is safe to say that for ten months of the year blooms of some kind may be found in the garden. The kitchen garden too must be so regulated as to supply vegetables all the year round. It is difficult in so short a space to explain the many whys and wherefores of garden design. Sufficient has been hinted | at however to show that originality and careful thought in the selection of suitable subjects plays an important part. Do not try to grow impossible subjects. Grow plants which you know will suit the climate. Do not allow specimens of trees and shrubs to overgrow each other. Remember that the pruning knife when properly used is a great aid to success. Prepare all ground well from the start by trenching or draining if need be. So by careful planning and planting plus a fair amount of common sense we may attain the desired effect and as I stated at the commencement the house becomes part of the garden and the garden a part of the house.