THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 19461, 28 January 1925, Page 11

THE GARDEN

NOTES FOR THE AMATEUR

WORK FOR THE WEEK. •i ——. (By *“ Horticola.”) The routine work in the vegetable garden just now now may be summed up into a few words —keep down weeds by the frequent use of the hoe and rake; prevent the accumulation of garden rubbish. Plant out late-sown celery to come in for a second crop, and see that it is kept moist at the roots. A sowing of turnips for late autumn use should be made now. To hasten on the growth give a dusting of artificial manure along the drills. Brompton or tree stocks should be sown. They make a very fine show, growing as high as sft. or over, with magnificent heads. It is somewhat risky to sow the seed in the open. Better and safer to sow it in boxes. Wallflowers should be sown if not already in. Sow in beds and thin out to secure sturdy plants. Seed of polyanthus, primrose, pansies and violas sown now will flower next spring. These may be sown in a well-prepared border outside. Give them rich and wellprepared soil. Gather seeds of all choice plants as they ripen. Get in pipings of pinks and carnations, and continue layering the latter. Carry on the work of budding roses. Cut down old flowering spikes of herbaceous plants without clipping off the green leaves. Take cuttings of bedding plants, hard wood, and other flowering shrubs. For many of the latter it will be necessary to procure bell glasses or hand lights to be successful in rooting them. Turn up every piece of ground as each plot becomes vacant. No better place can be got for spent crops and garden rubbish than at the bottom of a dug trench as such work proceeds. No matter what vegetable matter, it is all of great value dug in as manure. Humus is indispensable to ground, particularly sandy or gravelly soils. Ground that has been worked up early will give far better returns than that left until just before it is required for use.

Mow and roll lawns regularly. Unless quantities of daisy, cape weed, or other such are in flower, it will be well not to use the grass box or carry off the clippings, because continued mowing and carrying of the grass tends to weaken it. In other words, if the grass is clean and free from weeds it will, if not left too long, dry up and act as a manure to the roots ,thus really returning to the ground what is taken from it; consequently the lawn will keep in good heart to a much longer period. But this must not be thought of where the grass is long and weedy, otherwise it would lay in nasty patches, look untidy, and do more harm than good. Clip grass verges and all kinds of hedges, including box edgings.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. i Keep asparagus bed clean, and give support to the tops to prevent them being I broken off by wind, as the tops are very necessary for the building up of strong growers for next season. Thin out springsown asparagus seedlings to 12in. apart in the rows. When onions are about half-advanced 1 towards tubering, bend over the tops and give them a dusting of artificial manure along the drills to finish them off. The tomatotes are in full fruit, and they J should not be let to suffer for want of ; water, although from now on they should ’ not get so much. So long as they do not flag or droop for want of it they will be ! quite all right. Give some air; in fact, unless in wet and cold spells the top vents j may be left on day and night. Keep all side shoots removed as they appear.

j Very often patches of woolly aphis (Am- ■' erican blight) appear about the grafted J joints of apple trees. In such case, paint • over the affected parts with castor oil or some of the aphis washes with a soft paint brush. • Cut runners of strawberries as they ap- ; pear except where they are required for planting new beds, in which case cut off the points of the runners beyond the first • or, at most, the second.

Keep down weeds and suckers on the raspberry border. Every advantage should be taken of the present condition of the soil for planting out cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, leeks and celery, while a further sowing should be made of cabbage and other colworts for i later planting. French and butter beans i can be sown to keep up a succession, while another sowing of runners may be made for late cropping. Another sowing of peas, i too, is always worth the risk, for although , not good dry weather subjects, if favour- ! able conditions prevail a good crop may be

' obtained. Where potatoes have ripened their foliage it will be wise to lift them, and if the ground is not needed for present cropping, sow mustard, rye or oats and when . tall enough dig this crop in and thus re- : furnish the ground with humus, which is essential to the vitality of the soil. Such a ; practice will take the place of stable manure and help to solve the difficulty of the short supply of plant food.

! THE FLOWER GARDEN. Bulbous plants which have ripened off their tops should be lifted, and when the offsets are separated they should be put away in a dry place to dry and ripen off ready for planting out later. The offsets should be lined out in another part of the garden to mature for the next geason or two till they reach maturity. Order and neatness should now reign in the beds and borders. Weeds should be rooted out as they appear. Beds and borders not covered with plante should be neatly raked to form a neat and tidy surface, Ground where tulips are to be planted, if at all inclined to be stiff, should be ridged up for exposure to the sun ready for plant* ing time. Young seedling ranunculus should be taken from the seed boxes. As they are Aery small a good plan to separate them is to tipple soil and all into a fine wire sieve, and hold it under a water tap. The water will wash out all the soil and leave the small roots clean. Then dry them on brown paper, after which they may be stored away until planting time. But they must not be placed in the sun, even for an hour.

The auricula is not nearly grown as it should be. A point to be considered is that a worthless strain takes as much care as a good one. As the seed is not the- best to keep, the sooner it is sown after it is saved the better, though early spring is considered the best time. Whichever time be chosen, prepare rich, sandy soil, with old manure; give good drainage; press the soil down firm and smooth; then water the soil; then sow the seed thinly and regularly. Just cover the seed with fine soil. Put a square of glass on to retain moisture; then place the pot in a cold frame. When they show four leaves, prick them off, but never let them get dry. Among annuals Phlox grandiflora is one of the freeest flowering, showiest and best, especially for the production of a mass of colours; the plants should be placed about 6in apart. At this distance they branch out and completely cover the ground. They

are greatly benefited before they starti flowering by a light surface application of sulphate of ammonia; this has a magical effect in the promotion of strong, healthy, green growth, which gives the plants a good start, and enables them to produce the largest and finest flowers. Phlox is a good, dry weather annual, the flowers come in useful for cutting in late autumn, and early winter successional plantings should be arranged for. At no season of the year is the greenhouse and conservatory more interesting and attractive than during the present and the succeeding month. At this time many of the most beautiful flowering and strikingly handsome foliage plants and ferns are seen at their best, and make a magnificent display. Tuberous begonias, both of double and single variety, with their wide range of colouring and delicate shades are specially attractive. Many of the varieties of both single and double produce enormous flowers of various shades. The cristala (or crested) varieties are a very interesting species, a unique crest being formed on each flower. There are few flowering plants of equal decorative value or more easily grown than the tuberous varieties of begonias. Parmula obconia and other hardy summer flowering varieties are of the easi-est culture, free of flowering, and invaluable for keeping up a display. Gloxinias, too, are among the most beautiful of early summer flowering plants, their large bell-shaped flowers and large velvet-like foliage making a very attractive display. Achimones is another free flowering tuberous plant and when grown in hanging baskets, are invaluable decorative plants. In addition to the above there are a host of other flowering plants that, when well grown and tastefully interspersed with fine foliage plants, ferns, etc., present a wealth of variety and colour that cannot fail to delight all lovers of plants. Hydrangea Domotoi is a new hydrangea which is attracting a good deal of attention in American and European horticultural circles. The plant became known in 1915 at San Francisco, where it was brought by a Japanese firm on the occasion of the Pan-American Exhibition. A JapaneseAmerican firm, the Domoto Bros., of Oakland, California, were struck by the showiness of the introduction, and secured the stock, giving it afterwards the name of H. Domotoi. In 1920 Dreer, the important and enterprising firm of Philadelphia, began to propagate it immensely, and put it on the American market. Of late the plant has penetrated Europe, and is now offered by a few nurseries—Barbier and Co., of Orleans, and. Lamoine, of Nancy. The new hydrangea is really a fine and attractive variety. It bears double flowers profusely, that last a very long time on the plant, far more than in the case of single varieties; they are large and of a beautiful soft pink. Although well adapted for pot culture, it is even more to be recommended as a hardy shrub. It has a very vigorous constitution ; the cold does not affect it, and it is of very easy culture. In spite of the fact that a number of so-called double forms of hydrangea have never so far attracted much attention, it seems that .H. Domotoi is bound to force its way into European gardens owing to its peculiar distinct appearance and special merits as a decorative plant. CHRYSANTHEMUM RAISING The Gardeners’ Chronicle (England), dated November 15, publishes a portrait and brief account of the life work of Mr T. W. Pockett, who was for many years curator of the Malvern parks and gardens in Australia, and is well-known throughout the world as one of the most successful raisers of chrysanthemums of the present day (states the Australasian). Mr Pockett prepared the plans for the public gardens at Malvern in 1888, and carried out all the work in connection with the parks, gardens and street planning controlled by the Malvern City Council. This work he continued until about six years ago, when he decided to retire and devote his attention almost exclusively to the raising of new chrysanthemums, a work he had previously carried out in his own private garden. Mr Pockett was born at Sheltenham, England, and spent his early years at market gardening. At the age of 16 he went to Mr Parker’s nursery at Tooting, afterwards foreman in the gardens of Mr J. H. Elwes at Colesborne Park. He came to Victoria after his marriage in 1878, from which time his career as a horticulturist is wellknown to all gardening enthusiasts. Mr Pockett visited England in 1901, and in 1913, and is again there, this time devoting his attention especially to the chrysanthemum, having visited the leading shows in England and France. At the National Chrysanthemum Society’s Show, held in the Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent square, London, on November 6, two varieties raised by Mr Pockett were awarded the first-class certificate. One of these, Thomas Pockett, named after the raiser, is a very large exhibition Japanese variety. The long, broad florets curl and recurve. The general colour is pale mauve, with a silvery reverse, but the centre of the bloom is of brighter tint. The other variety sent out here as a novelty in 1921 is Mr T. Slack, an exceedingly handsome large Japanese variety of the best exhibition type. The long, broad florets twist, and the golden reverse alternates in the bright redddish chestnut surface colour. Both of these were shown by Messrs Keith Luxford and Co., the English firm renowned for the production of many excellent varieties of chrysanthemums, which is distributing the new varieties raised by Mr Pockett. BEAUTIFUL CARNATIONS. SOME HINTS ON GROWING. The American perpetual carnations are more suitable for indoor growing, and are usually treated in this manner, They are perpetual flowering in that they will produce blooms at any season of the year by proper treatment, but as a rule the quantity of blood produced by each plant is limited. For general purposes and outdoor growing the border carnations are most cultivated. These produce quantities of bloom over a fairly long period, and plants which are two or three years old will throw up from 20 to 30 flower heads. When properly planted and liberally treated, they grow with good long stiff stems, and the blooms are a fair size. As with roses, all are not equally robust, neither do all possess the qualities which are essential in a good carnation for cutting. This is equally true of all classes of carnations. Some are weak in the stalk, and refuse to stand up, others are naturally weak in the calyx, and unless banded, invariably burst, completely spoiling an otherwise perfect bloom. There is another class of carnation which was recently introduced, known as the ‘ Perpetual Border” carnation. This race is undoubtedly the best of all to <row for cut blooms, possessing as most of the varieties do the good qualities of the perpetual varieties, together with the hardiness and floriferousness of their other parent—the border carnation. The following are the best of their colour, according to a prominent , grower:—“Sussex Pink,” “Sussex Red,” “Sussex Crimson,” “Sussex Scarlet,” “Sussex Maroon,” “Sussex Beauty” (heliotrope) and “Rosalind,” a yellow striped with light red. The best of the whites is the perpetual “Wiversfield White.” Perpetual border carnations are not in general use in New Zealand yet, but the

name and address of a local grower can be supplied upon application. CARNATION CULTURE. As the season for layering carnations, as most generally employed by growers, is approaching it may be as well to give a short account of the methods to be employed in this operation with a few notes on the general cultivation of these popular flowers. The correct time for layering is just before or immediately after the plants have done flowering. As the season of blooming varies with the different varieand the locality, so the time for layering will vary, but either January or February will be found the best time round Invercargill, except in very dry parts where the operation may more successfully be done before the plants flower, via., late in the spring. All old growth which has produced flowers should be removed from the plants, and young growths springing from the base of the plants—growths which have not flowered, and are not showing flower buds—should be selected. The ground around the plants should be well worked up, making it thoroughly loose and free from lumps, and, if dry, given a good watering. Two or three inches of good sharp sand should then be spread over the surface of the soil. Having selected the shoot to be layered a clean cut with a very sharp knife should be made upwards, commencing just below a joint, and splitting up the stem right through the joint, and almost up to the next joint. It is necessary that the cut should be kept open, and to insure this a small stone or a grain of wheat or oafs may be inserted; but if the layer is properly placed, and the joint raised, this will not be necessary. Having prepared the shoot, the open cut should be fixed into the soil with a peg or a hair-pin. Cover the joint with an inch or so of soil, and make quite firm, finally watering to settle the soil or sand round it. To raise really good carnations it is necessary that the ground be thoroughly prepared by trenching or deep digging. The incorporation of lime and grit or old mortar rubbish should not be neglected, as lime is one of the essentials to successful carnation growing. The ground should be moderately rich, thoroughly decayed cow manure being the best manure to use, but this should be dug into the lower spit, so that the roots have to go down to it. On no account must new manure of any kind come in contact with the roots. If animal manures are not obtainable bonedust is the best substitute, and this should be used moderately and thoroughly mixed with the soil. Don’t have the ground too rich, as more ailments of carnations are caused by the indiscriminate use of artificial manures than from any other cause. When planting be sure the ground is made thoroughly firm around the plants, and do not set the plants too deep. The lower leaves should never be below the surface.

Carnations abhor shade and will not tolerate undrained soil. It is to be borne in mind, therefore, that they require all the sun available, and that they can stand a fair amount of drought. It is a good plan to make the beds a little higher than the path level, which will assist drainage. If properly staked as soon as they commence throwing up their flowering stems, the plants will not suffer from wind to any great extent. DISEASES OF CARNATIONS. Wireworms are very destructive to car nations if present in the soil in any quantity. It is advisable, therefore, to be sure that the ground is free from these pests before planting, as they are difficult to eradicate once the carnations are in the ground. The worst diseases of carnations are mildew, which may be kept in check by syringing with liver of sulphur at a strength of one ounce to two gallons of water. The trouble is not likely to appear if the plants are cultivated in the open and attention is paid to drainage, and not allowing the plants to become too dry. Rust and purple spot are more difficult to get rid of. For rust the following simple method is adopted by some American growers: Mix one ounce of common salt in 5 pints of water and spray the plants with this. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture is a good preventative, but not a cure. Purple spot makes its appearance in the winter, and is very difficult to deal with. The best method of dealing with this trouble is to go carefully over the affected plants, removing and burning all dead or diseased leaves, as this trouble quickly spreads. Constant and regular overhead dustings with lime should be given, and occasional sprayings with a rose pink solution of permanganate of potash. Green fly or aphis must be dealt with whenever it appears by spraying with “black leaf 40.”