HER LADYSHIP

Southland Times, Issue 19658, 7 October 1922, Page 14 (Supplement)

HER LADYSHIP

PARIS FASHION NOTES. NEW DRESSES DRAPED PARIS. Augwt 19. Nearhr all the new dresses are draped, especially afternoon and evening models; for wearing in the morning, while shopping and walking, our cloches are to remain straight and rather plain. I am told. I am very much impressed by these draped models which look best on slender women. The draperies are arranged so that the hips seem immense, while the ankles remain skmder. Indeed the important Paris dressmakers are creating afternoon frocks which have a distinctly pegtop outline. Chiffon velvet in all the brown and grey shades is to be much seen this autumn. It is successfully combined with bands of fur dyed to the exact shade of the velvet; rabbit, squirrel, or a new kind of pelt, resembling plush of the finest quality. Otoe of the most popular colours of the coming autumn will he a lovely blue-grey, which is almost hydrangea in a strong light. I have seen this colour in velvet, duvetyn, kasha, and camels hair cloth. I have also seen it in the form of silky fek in the best millinery showrooms. Hip-length coatees are ven- popular; they are made of the same material as that used for the dress, or of an entirely different fabric. There is a distinct tendency towards a revival of one-piece frocks and hip-coatees in duvetyn, velours de laine, and velvet. \ ery few of the new walking skirts show an uneven hem. Tais is excellent news, because drooping points and panels in heavy materials look ridiculous. THE RETURN OF FRILLS Frills are fast returning to fashion. All the newest frocks and jabots that are being shown for wear with even the severely tailored spring coats and skins show pretty cascade effects achieved by pin-tucked and plesse nets, that are bordered with real Valenciennes or fine Flemish lace. A hint that may be worth while remembering is the fact that the new shade of ecru can be imparted to any lace or muslin front that is washed and then dipped in ecru starch. Care should, however, be taken not to use too much of the starch, otherwise a ix> stiff appearance is achieved, for the front of to-day must be soft and limp-looking if it is to be counted ■ really smart. The only exception to this rule is in the case of those crisp-looking organdie fronts, made with the new semi-Medici throw-back collars. A bright yellow front of this description that has a scalloped border worked in white button-hole stitch gives a touch of smartness to the most ordinary blue serge costume; while a novelty a la mode are fronts and collars made of black organdie, which have been introduced as a finish to white cloth costumes, and those of the new pale silver grey cloth or crepe moracain. A quite new kind of front takes the form of brightly striped organdie, brocaded crepe, or please net, which, arranged in a long, straight band, is fixed inside the ' loose-fronted coatees of to-day. giving th? • effect of a very bright lining; similar bands : for slipping inside the wide-cuffed sleeves being made to match. DOWDY BERLIN. FRAUS AND FRENCH MODEI3. An observant Englishwoman just back from a visit to Germany pays scant tribute to the- mondames of the capital. Berl.n sales are now going on in some of the big shops here, but they are very different affairs from the London sales. There are no struggling masses of bargain hunters, and the available ‘ bargains” are not at all striking. The shops which display ■ really pretty clothes do not seem to go in i for sales. They show pretty French models | in their window.-, but these never have their prices marked, only they always look j expensive. These windows are almost the only place : where one ever sees a dainty frock. As i soon as they arc worn they lock dreadful, i for Berlin women have a most extraordin- • ary taste in dress. They may look ex- i pensively dressed, but there is always a ' mistake somewhere. lather in the style the woman chooses—for the fatter she is , the more she inclines to models suitable j for the slimmest figures—or else in the I shoes she wears. I saw a woman in the ! Adion rcstauarnt, which corresponds to the ■ Carlton in London, wearing a charming ■ navy blue and white foulard, with heavy I brown button boots. She was accompanied ' by another woman in a dainty black crepe i de chine, and well-worn coarse black lacing ' boots, suitable for the wilds of Pomerania. ■ MODELS AND WEARERS. In spite of their anti-French feeling, those who can afford it choose copies of Paris models, quite ignoring the fact that what is designed for a dainty little Frenchwoman can never look well on a strapping Valkyrie-like creature. Also, a French hat usually looks ridiculous on a German head. The typical German woman has masses of hair, straight and thick, iike a horse’s tail. It is generally dragged off a very prominent forehead, into a huge bun. Those who cannot afford copies of French models, and must be content with the fashions of their own country, look just, as strange. They adopt hard outlines, and the mannish sailor hat, tilted well forward, showing great coils of hair behind, is a common sight. They love many colours, and the woman who in England would be wearing a simple dark costume, suitable for al! occasions, hat to match, is seen here decked out in a bright purple or scarlet hat, pink dress, bright blue or green knitted coat and brown boots. Shoes, except the most expensive kind, seem to be made without any idea of shape I bought a pair of tennis shoes the other day, and when I did at last find a wearable pair, they reminded me of the line in the song which says, ‘Herring boxes without topses, sandals were for Clementine.'’ Clementine could most certainly be filled in any Berlin shoe shop. SUMMER GOWNS. The wise girl, who delights in a pretty summer wardrobe, for both city and holiday wear, will now begin to prepare for the coming months. The new materials Cre so numerous and so attractive that it » hard to say which will have the greatest run. A soft woollen material, such as kasha, is popular for three-piece frocks for the cooler days, whilst wool broche in every sort of colour is much used for wraps. The wonderful possibilities of ginghams wall certainly be made manifest this reason, and the check variety is much in demand. Luvisca, that soft, silky malerial, is so reliable for washing frocks, and a striped one, blended with a plain, makes a tharming street frock. The crepe jersey cloth and crepe georgette bold their own for afternoon and evening wear. Spotted organdie has a charming effect for a garden-party frock, especially if it is brightly finished with silver and a contrasting shade. Sponge cloth is something more durable, and with beaded and embroidered touches is exceedingly smart. Embroidery, carried on any material, is still to be met with, and scallops nad flounces will be returning to favour, to say nothing of fine pleats and tucks. The skirts are to be much longer, and flatheeled shoes, rather than the high-heeled, will be much favoured. Tiny goffered frills, running lengthwise from the hem of the skirt to the waist line, are to be seen in several new models. The wide-brimmed hat, made of light material in keeping with the gown, and the leghorn hat are to come more to the front this summer than for many a long dav. For summer gowns double-width ginghams and zephyrs can be had for 1/6 a yard, and 4J yards will make the averagesled woman a smart, simple and serviceable frock.

THE NEW BLOUSE

MAKES'FOR SIMILAR FIGURES. The latest American blouses are said to be very special features of dress this coming s-*ason. From its New York correspondent, the Sunday Times has received the following description of them: — "The new blouse is verily a blouse and not in any sense a waist. Its loose Lines are very becoming, too. Any woman looks slimmer in a loose blouse than she does in a tight-fitting one. the softer and easier the fall of the blouse fabric on the figure, the , slimmer seems the figure. These loose blouses fall over the skirt at a low waistline, and this adds to the slenderness of the silhouette. ‘*The straight skirt has a very loose belt so that it slips well down on the figure eliminating curves. Sometimes a sash of the blouse material, passed around the top of the skirt, continues the length of line and increases the effect of slimness. "Soft, heavy linen is being used for these blouses, crepe de chine is favoured also, and Shantung goes great when it comes to sports blouses. "One’s blouse must be odd picturesque and “different.”—that is to say, individual, to have style. You can be very ladylike and neat in a white voile waist trimmed with filet insertion; or in a white batiste waist embroidered by hand—but you will not be especially smart. The smart blouse just now is dashing rather than neat and dainty. What is called the peasant style is back again. It has a round neck finished with a flat casing through which a ribbon draw-string is run. The long sleeves are gathered at the wrists into similar casings below which escape little trills. This blouse is sometimes of handkerchief linen in faint apricot tint and is cross-stitched in nasturtion and' canna reds, the cross stitch erabroideiy, done with wool, accentuating the peasant succession. "The sleeves have a Raglan cut and the front of the blouse is very full—gathered into a narrow band that makes the neckfinish. The edges of the sleeves are finished in a pretty way; a narrow hem. rolled between thumb and finger is whipped with the coloured wool. This finish is a new touch much in evidence on imported blouses. "Another blouse that promises to be exceedingly popular dates back about 20 years. it, too, has the Raglan sleeve, and is amazingly full in front. This full front and the back, almost as full, are gathered to a small circular yoke, and the yoke is attached Jo a high stock collar. ! Collar and yoke are covered with coloured i embroidery in deep blue, black and orange. The blouse is of solft, heavy white linen These full blouses with full Raglan sleeves giving a smooth line over the shoulder and a bishop frill at the wrist promise to be the rage. "Very good-looking sports blouses are of natural coloured Shantung. These blouses look well with sport skirts of brown or tan wool and with Shantung skirts to match the blouse. They are practical since the tar. pongee looks clean longer than a white silk waist would, yet may be laundered as easily as white linen or batiste. •‘These sport blouses are in slip-on style, with long sleeves ending in link cuffs, or j with cibow sleeves finished with tumedI back cuffs. There is a slash down Jhe i centre front making a neck opening, large enough tn go over the head. This slash :s pip'd and fastened with buttons and loops, and a turnover collar finishes the neck. WOMEN AND WALKING. HELPFUL HINTS FOR FAIR PEDESTRIANS. What deters nmny of these would-be walkers? Probably the thought that fatigue will make enjoyment impossible, i Many women make their first and worst : mistake in the choice of their shoes. "Pretty” shoes are no good unless they 3 ’ beUer arC ODiy j My advice to the pedestrian holidayi maker is that she should throw pride to the wind and purchase a pair of good j walking shoes one size larger than she is accustomed to wear, and, if time permits, to use them once or twice before the holiday. The larger size will permit the addiLtion of a thick wool sock being worn. The heat caused by the sock may be unpleasant, but it is to be preferred to blisters which • are often caused by tightly-fitting footwear. Where shall one walk A good plan for i the novice who has a fortnight to spare is to select a destination situated 150 miles j from home, to walk there and travel back by train. If there is time the would-be pedestrian should harden her feet by bathing them in a sohition of common salt and water- in | the proportion of one part of salt to ten parts of water. Should there be no opportunity to give this attention, prior to setting cut (and each morning after) the feet should be plunged into cold water for a second or two and while they are wet a lather of yellow soap should be rubbed between and over each toe, under the ball of the big toe and at the back of both heels to prevent chafing. Twenty miles a day is within reach of a healthy woman walker if ten are walked before lunch and two hours’ rest be taken. IN JAPAN. NO WHITE -HAIRED WOMEN. If there is one thing the Japanese woman cordially didikes it is white hair. This is because she wears no hat, and woman’s crowning glory is more in evidence; also ior the reason that her hair is jet black and glosiy, the signs of age showing more plainly by way of contrast. But the chief reason why the Japanese woman carefully avoids white hair is that it means retirement as an antiquated member of the family. Given a youthful head, no matter what her face may tell, the old lady of Japan allows herself many kinds of pleasures, from attending the tlieatre regularly each month, to excursions to temples and shrines, kinema shows, and flower gardens. Let her once allow white hair to get the best of her. and she is automatically relegated to the domestic background. V» bite hair is in such disfavour at present that it is difficult to find it even among the very old, for a woman of sixty go longer considers it fashionable to appear with a white "crown.” At garden parties, any large assemblage of women, or even the theatre, nothing will meet the eye but blark-as-mk coiffeurs, neatly arranged. The surprised observer may wonder what becomes ot white hair in Japan, and comet' to the conclusion there must exist some .Asiatic magician who waves a wand that instantly removes all the tell-tale evidences of the hand of time. The secret, however, is nothing more than a persistent use of hair dyes, of which there arc a great number, imported and home-made, some of them highly injurious. This transformation of the decayin" strands is generally done at home, and the nrst white hairs that make their appearance are lovingly plucked out by a maid or young daughter. Nowadays women find it easier to resort to beauty parlours where face massage, manicuring, elaborate arrangement of the tresses of ceremonial occasions, such as marriages, and the touching up and dyeing of the head are carefully performed by busy, matter-of-fact attendants. Here are "flappers” having their locks done up so as to cover their ears, western fashion, and matrons patient under hand? that comb and oil, make pads and puffs, and adorn with coral beads, gold lacquered combs, bright silk, silver or tortoiseshell ornaments—testifying to the fact that the vanity of females is much the same in all Lands under the sun. It is easy to predict that he who discover how to counteract the mysterious mischief- air bubbles in the hair will reap a golden, harvest in Japan.