THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 19658, 7 October 1922, Page 11 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN

(By

Horticola.)

There are other means of assisting crops other than watering. Mulchings of halfrotted manure and the constant use of the hoe, both of which are of immense calue as aids to conserving soil moisture. In many cases a light dressing of nitrate of soda immediately after a heavy shower, or a thorough watering, will lie highly beneficial to crops that have received a check from excessive dryness of the soil. This fertiliser requires care in its use, for in excess it will do more harm than good, but a top dressing of between half an ounce and one ounce per square yard will give impetus to the crop that may make all the difference betwen an indifferent and satisfactory yield. It has been found that a larger proportion of white flowers are fragrant than those of any other colour; yellow comes next, then red, and lastly blue, after which, and in the same order, may be reckoned, violet, orange, brown, and black. Millipedes are somewhat similar to and are frequently mistaken foK. wireworms. They may be distinguished by their greater number of legs, by their brown colour (wireworms being black), and by the presence of two horns on the head. The larvae feed on the roots of potatoes, onions, carrots, turnips, cabbages, etc. The best remedy is frequent hoeing and the strewing of lime and soot on the ground. Avoid the use of rank manure where are present. ANNUALS. The majority of hardy annuals are seen at their best where a border can be devoted to them exclusively, but, sown in clumps in the herbaceous border, or among low-growing shrubs, they are not out of place. Although these annuals are endowed with a good constitution, it is not in every garden they are admired. Various reasons are offered to account for this, and, in many cases it may be traced to the fact that their value is underrated, and as a consequence they do not always re-; ceive fair treatment. This does not alter the fact that they possess qualities which the average garden is in need of in summer, but, at the same time some interest must be taken in their cultivation. The soil ought to be well prepared, and where it is heavy and of afretentive nature it should be lightened with road grit or old potting soil if |>ossible’. Overcrowding is often the cause of failure. It is surprising the amount of space the more vigorous kinds will fill if given the opportunity. The plants should be thinned out, when large enough to handle, to about a foot apart, and, later on alternative plants should be removed according to their habit. Besides being useful for the flower garden, some of these annuals are almost indispensible for cutting. These are best grown where they can serve their purpose without any consideration for appearances. The newly-made rock garden is another site for which many hardy annuals of a dwarf nature are fitted, some are as showy as the perennial alpines, and resemble them in habit of growth. The prettiest alpines are among those bearing single flowers, and annuals to associate with them should be of a similar type. Excepting where the rock-work is on an extensive scale, varities about a foot high look out of place, and should be avoided. This, briefly outlines the adaptability of annuals, but ir does not end there, as some make excellent pot plants, that are invaluable for conservatory decoration in early summer. Clarkias are a fine example of this class, and the best results follow where cool treatment is strictly adhered to. SUCCESS WITH POTATOES. “The great secret in potato growing,” said a famous English farmer, “is to get ihe proper seed, and the system adopted in Jersey could be followed with advantage. The potato growers there secure all their seed from their own stocks. The greenest and most vigorous plants are dug up for seed when the potatoes have reached about three-quarter growth. These potatoes are put in boxes, and left in the sun until they get thoroughly green in a shed, where they will be secure from frost for the winter, i They should be examined about every ten days to see that they are not sprouting too much, and this is prevented by giving them more air, or moving them into a cooler position. It is advisable not to let them grow sprouts more than a quarter of an inch in length. Through getting these potatoes green and hard in the sun, when planted wire worm and other pests will not interfere with them, and should the land be wet, they will not rot as other potatoes do. Also when they are growing they are much stronger to resist frost. There is no comparison between seed saved in this manner and that saved from potatoes that have been allowed to ripen. Potatoes for this purjiose must be lifted while they are in vigorous growth, and before any sign of blight appears, as once this disease has shown itself in the haulm, the potatoes would not keep if dug green, as the spores from the leaves and the spores on the land immediately affect the tuber that is dug in an immature state. I have no hesitation in saying that the grower who carries out these instructions will increase his crop by at least 40 per cent. DAHLIAS. Planting out in the open is best done when (he ground is fairly dry and is readily pulverised. It is then warm, aerated, and favourable to quick root action. When full of moisture the ground is cold, and root action slow. In placing a number of plants in a given piece of ground, some growers plant a little wider than others. Some cultivators have their rows of dahliahs six feet apart, and the plants five feet from each other; another will give a foot more in both cases. When the ground is restricted, it is sometimes necessary to plant closer, but light and air circulating ireely among the plants is an important condition. Our leading varieties are now generally of dwarfer and more compact growth than the popular sorts of fifteen and twenty years ago.

It can be assumed that the ground was deeply dug and manured in the autumn. It was an old practice with some to dig a hole at the time of planting about two feet in depth and the same in width, and then put into each a spadeful or two of potting soil mixed with manure, the object being

to give the roots a start, and plant on this, returning the soil taken out, after well pulverising it, and then treading it down rather lightly. Growth soon sets in, and then the use of stakes is required. At the time of planting a stout stake four to five feet in height, or taller, according to the growth of the variety, should be placed against the main shoots, and the latter tied a little loosely to it, so as not to retard its upward growth. The main stem will soon throw out side branches, and according to the number so produced smaller stakes should be put- in the ground to secure the smaller branches to, as the succulent wood of the dahlia is very brittle, and soon snapped off by the wind. The tying out of the laterals also encures light and air circulating among the branches. The need for tying increases as the plants gain in size, and some raffia grass, which is the best material, should be kept in hand for the purpose. The greatest insect pest the dahlia grower has to contend with is the earwig; and though it is most injurious to the buds, it is well to prepare for trapping them before the buds develop. The old methotf’*of a flower-pot, with a little moss or soft hay inside, has survived all the patent earwig traps which have appeared from time to time; and it is as efficacious as ever. The pots should be examined night and morning as earwigs take up their residence in them, and can he caught and destroyed. One amateur cultivator that I know is also a lover of fox-gloves, and he utilises portions of the dried flower-stalks as earwig traps. H° takes out the pith by means of a piece of wire after he has cut the stem into certain lengths, and they are placed among the branches of the plants, and prove of great service, as th.e earwigs get inside them as a place of refuge.