BEN LOMOND

Southland Times, Issue 17473, 13 October 1913, Page 2

BEN LOMOND

A MOUNTAIN EXCURSION. (Specially written for the Southland , Times).' The guide book tells us that the height of Ben Lomond is 5717 feet. Lake Wakatipu is 1069 feet'above sea level, so that when you start to climb Ben Lomond, yon have before you a height of 4676 feet, or 004 less than a perpendicular mile. Measured from sea level, however, you are standing one mile 467 feet above the Pacific when your foot presses the top of Queenstown's mountainette. Estimates of the actual distance from the town of QueenstoWn to the summit of Ben Lomond, and the time occupied in making the ascent differ in a remarkable, and even amusing degree. The personal equation enters into mountain climbing with both feet. You will be solemnly assured by one person- that you cannot make the ascent in less than 5% hours, and then you will meet a modest individual who swears that he went to the top and back again in 2% hours. It may be taken for granted, I think, that the walk to the summit and back again involves a tramp approximating ten miles, and it follows that anyone who Intends to do the climb on shanks’ pony sliould.be in fair physical condition. At the present time it is by no means an easy climb, as Die ordinary track is in places under a considerable depth of snow, and in the last stages of the ascent is completely lost. In view of the conflicting estimates of the time required the writer took particular note of the progress of the journey, and as a result is able to assure intending and possible climbers that the return journey may be done comfortably in six hours, which includes, one hour as allowance for rest and refreshment purposes. I may add that the actual time occupied by the party to which I belonged was 5% hours, including the hour for rest. We travelled at a fair but not forced pace, but still probably faster than the average party of mountain excursionists. Our party numbered three, and included one lady, who was quite a good pedestrian.

A word as to equipment and commissariat might be useful to those who may be doing the Lakes district, and incidentally "climbing Ben Lomond, during the coming holiday season. As to equipment, you would.be just as wise to wear strong but not heavy boots. You should be neither too heavily nor- too lightly clad, as some astonishing changes in temperature are encountered. In sheltered stretches you will be uncomfortably warm and perspiring, but the open spaces are sometimes swept by winds of biting keenness. Personally I found that my everyday attire was quite suitable. with a muffler for the neck to be used when in the colder temperatures, A serviceable walking stick is also an exceedingly useful and almost essential part of the climber’s turnout. Overcoats and extra clothes should hot be taken unless the weather is unpropitious—and then the climb should be postponed. The commissariat is not less important than the equipment, and a few hints on the subject may also be acceptable. Remember that the mountain air and the walking exercise sharpens the appetite, and that on the mountain you will eat without shame a dinner that would send a boarding-house bankrupt in a week. See that the hamper is well supplied with, plain and wholesome fare. Bread and butter and sandwiches should take up the most space in the lunch basket.' We found that chocolate made •an excellent refresher by the wayside, and I would "recommend parties to take a fair supply of this delicacy with them. If you are not teetotal, and must take alcoholic refreshments with you, do not load yourself up with heavy bottled stuff. A pocket flask is accordingly recommended, with the advice that its contents should not be broached on- the upward journey. A quart bottle of milk is worth its place in the basket. The height, distance, equipment, and refreshments having been satisfactorily disposed of, we will commence our ascent. Wo bid an unobtrusive farewell to Queenstown, and strike the track <is soon as we are outside the'town proper. The track is well defined, and though it has been scoured out by the winter rains it is in very fair order. The most trouble is caused by small stones which lie loose on the surface.' and cause some Insecurity underfoot. This can generally bo avoided, however, by keeping to the side of, the track, where in-places there Is a nice springy turf. The track leads upwards in rough zig-zag fashion, on a fairly easy grade. The mountain sides reveal little in the way of vegatation or bush to charm the eye, hut occasional glimpses of Lake Wakatipi/as we gradually ascend provide some compensation. Indeed, the lake seems to increase in beauty when viewed from (lie higher altitudes. By. the winding-of the path it is occasionally hidden from view, and then suddenly revealed again as some ridge or minor eminence is surmounted. With the Kemarkahles for a background, their serrated tops glittering in snow, the lake is invested with a peculiar charm and serene beauty. The few minutes taken up at these vantage points are pleasantly occupied. The eye is enchanted, and the body is rested.

On the left hand side of the .trade is a deep wooded ravine, from which rises tit o subdued roar of a concealed torrent. Above the stream there real's sharply the range of hills which ends abruptly with Ben Lomond. The bridge across the ravine from the track to Ben Lomond is the Saddle, which our party reached after two hours walking from Queenstown. On the Saddle is situated the hut, which. deserves a little description. It is a corrugated iron shed, slightly larger than the ordinary washhouse. The interior is devoid of furniture. and —on the occasion of our visit — shockingly dirty. We were told that there used to be seats, but that they had been broken up for firewood by conscienceless mountaineers of the past. There are window openings in the hut, but they are innocent of glass or frames. The exterior appearance need not be described —it is like every other iron hut In the world, with the exception that the iron is decorated with the signatures of hundreds or thousands of people who in the past have at least climbed to the Saddle. Anyone rending the names will probably find scores which are familiar to him. Though Otago and Southland names predominate, there are dozens from the northern towns, and not a few from Australia and ISngland. The hut is supposed to bo used as a shelter shed in bad weather,” but ,tho weather would have to be particularly unkind to induce even slightly fastidious people to take advantage of its uninviting hospitality. On the lloor we discovered what one of our party described as the Visitor’s Book. It was beaded; ‘'.Names and descriptions of persons received into H.AI. Prison.” As it contained the names of many ladies and gentlemen who are people of unimpeachable propriety and probity, I gathered that it was not a missing official record, even though the book Itself had been printed for use in one of the country’s houses of detention. Our party dined and rested in the vicinity of the but, and then set out for the summit. We could see that there was a good deal of snow between us and the top, and in fact the hut itself was the centre of a, huge snow drift —of which more hereafter. Wo made our way round to the hack of the mountain, and for a few minules followed the track comfortably enough. We crossed a number of smaller snow glaciers, beyond which the track could be discerned, but eventually we come to a full stop before a broad expanse of snow, which completely bid the path. The summit, in the clear mountain air, looked tantalisingly near, and wo decided to make a bee-line (as nearly as possible) for it. The mountain side was excessively rough and slippery, and for half an hour wo toiled upwards under conditions which were too like real mountaineering to entirely appeal to amateur climbers. Near the- top we again came across' vestiges of the track, but this was not of much use to us, and we found that in places the track had been carried away by stone or.snow slides. We were ail relieved when the peak was achieved, and the lady member of our party led us to the highest point—which, by the’ way. was snow covered, the actual top of the mountain being a few' fee't beneath us. It would need a more facile and eloquent pen than mine to describe the richness of tire reward that awaits those who achieve the modest conquest of Ben Lomond’s heights. We ‘.looked out on scenes - which for exquisite,' beauty and

stately grandeur surpassed anything which bad previously come within my view. We walked to the edge of the mountain, and looked down on the shimmering blue-green lake, and across a dizzy space to the rugged Remarkables. To the south and south-west the views are more ' conventional, thougli little Moke Lake makes a picturesque item in the foreground. Tt is in the northwest that the. eyes are held longest and most reverently. There lie the great Southern Alps, those everlasting lulls, a host of peaks and ridges, draped in the virgin purity of snow. A filmy haze enfolds the lower readies, but the peaks rise gloriously, piercing the haze, and shining in the sun’s rays. It -is a scene which makes a powerful appeal, and.one feels the inadequacy of such descriptive words as “exquisite," "grand,’ "lovely, /’beautiful," which are so often used when they are more than adequate. The descent of Ben Lomond offers no difficulties. The crick in the hack disappears. but the forward pressure on the toes sometimes causes blisters and loss of skin. Our parly came down ih just two hours, allowing half an hour at the hut for rest and refreshment.. It was at the hut that an ingenious member of our party suggested a little tobogganing. He produced a sheet of iron which was lying on the fioor, and conveyed it to the top of the snow glacier tvh.ch surrounded the .hut. There was a . i, right run of about lf> yards, ending in an area of tussocks. The expert and the lady sat on the sheet of iron, my friend holding up the front edge so that it would not dig into the snow. The improvised toboggan started slowly, but it worked up paipe with- astounding suddenness, and went past me—fifty yards below —like a streak of lightning. The snow flew up in the sledgers’ faces. They readied the tussocks, where the toboggan and its passengers parted with more precipitation than dignity. The episode reminded one of the Chinaman s description of tobogganing: “Wliisli — sli —sli —sh —sh ! Walkee back five mile!” One experiment in this line was enough for our adventurers, and we continued our descent, which was pleasantly and safely concluded. To visitors to Queenstown we can cordially recommend the Ben Lomond climb. With a fine day. in good,walking trim, and the company of congenial friends, it is an ideal outing.—A.B.L.