ROOT PRUNING FRUIT TREES.

Pelorus Guardian and Miners' Advocate., Volume 24, Issue 19, 11 March 1913, Page 2

ROOT PRUNING FRUIT TREES.

Abundant crops of fruit are impossible from trees that are overluxuriant and too vigorous in the production of wood and leaves, and ihis condition is not uncommon with a >ples, pears, cherries, and plums, particularly in the case of trees growing in very rich soil. To severely bran , h prime such trees as these during the winter in the hope of remedying and preventing over luxuriance is a mistake, and only likely to increase the trouble and cause etrenger growth to be produced. What is frequently practised to counteract this is judicious root-pn.ning, which, in addition to checking excessive branch growth, tends to make the wood that is produced fruit bearing and causes the roots to. keep comparatively near the surface instead of striking downwards into the sub soil, with the] result that the trees are better nourished.

The season for root pruning extends from the time the leaves commence to fall unlil June or the middle of July, the earlier the better, the weather, however, sho :ld be dry, and the soil in satis.fa.tory working condifon. Root pi i n'ng must not be tarried to excess, or the trees may be permanently injured, and in the case of tress more than five or six years old it is never advisable to prune the whole of the robts at one operation, the safest plan being to sbort. n the roots half way round the tiee one year and the remaining half the following year, or, in the case of a tree that is not in very bad condition, two yea s should be allowed to elapse before anything further is, done,, a. the one operation may be sufficient to check the over-luxur-ianoe a nd remedy the trouble. The distance to cut or prune the roots from the stem varies from 3 to 41 feet, according to the size, condition, and age of the tree to be operated upon,; the larger the tree the further away from the stem should the roots be cut.

To get at the roots, a trench, say about two feet wide, must be excavated half way round the tree, as shown in Fig. A of the accompanying sketches, a digging fork being used to well loosen the soil, which is then removed with a spade, great care being taken not to injure afiy of the roots as the work proceeds. The soil must be removed right under the tree, as shown in Fig. 2, as very frequently it is roots striking downwards into the sub-soil which is the principal cause of the trouble. All the roots bared should not be cub, the ones to shorten or prune being those that are long, bare, and flbreless, as Fig, 3. Fibrous roots, as Fig 4 should not be cut or shortened in any way. A sharp pruning knife should be used for shortening the roots, and the cuts be clean and free from jagged edges, whilst it is the safest plan to collect all pieces of root removed, because if they are left in the trench they may cause the appearance of fungus. Shortening the long, bare roots will cause fibrous roots to be emitted, as shown in Fig. 5, plenty of which are necessary in order to make the trees fruitful. The cross lines in Fig 2 indicate the roots that should be pruned and the points at which to shorten them.

After completing the operation the trench must be filled in with soil of a suitable character, and if that removed is not as it should he, the addition of some good fibrous loam, lime, and mortar rubbish and road grit will improve it. When filling, in the trench, it is most important that the soil should be made very firm by treading, whilst afterwards a soaking with chilled water is desirable.—“ N.Z. Farmer.”