CLIMBERS ON EVEREST

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19038, 11 June 1936, Page 15

CLIMBERS ON EVEREST

WEST OP NORTH COL PINAL EXPLORATION MONSOON REGAINS FORCE (RlflC. Tel. Copyright—United Press Assn.) (Heed. June 11, 2.30 p.m.) LONDON.. June 10. The loader of the Everest expedition, Mr. uugli liuttletlge, in ;i copyright message, says that tne whole party exce.pl. Major l . .1. Morris and Dr. Noel Humphreys is now encamped near the head uf tne main Rougbuk U lacier under the huge north face, of Alt. Everest. "The monsoon has regained force here, but to-day a parly of seven is exploring! Hie west side ot the North Coi, according to the plan announced in my last message a.s our final effort."

A message received on Tuesday stated thai this year's attempt to reach the peak of Mt. Everest had been abandoned.

The party was chosen .with great care and was the strongest that could be obtained. The members are :

Mr. Hugh Rultledge, leader; Mr. F. S. Smythe, who made, ids fourth expedition to the Himalaya; Mr. K E. Bhipton, a member of the 1933 expedition and famous for his successful exploration in i 934; Mr. P. Wyn Harris, of the Kenya Civil Service, who climbed lo about 28,000 ft. in 1933; Mr. E, G. 11. Kempton, a master at Marlborough College and a mountaineer of great experience; Dr. C. B. Warren, formerly oi St. Bartholowmew's Hospital; Mr. F. H. L. Wigram; Lieutenant J. M. l L. Gavin, of the Royal Engineers; Lieutenant P. R. Oliver, who led a small expedition of his own to the Himilaya in 1933; Major C. J. .Morris, chief transport officer of the expedition: Dr. Noel Humphreys; and Lieutenant W-. R. Smith-Windham, of the Royal Corps of Signals. From the first the expedition was delayed by snow. On May 15 a route was completed up tlw ice face of the North Col, and on the following day a successful carry was made to Camp 4, at a height of 23,C00ft. On May 18, the advance of Messrs. Smythe and Shipton from Camp 4 was interrupted by heavy snow, and. it was decided to evacuate the camp i emporarily.

DESPERATE RACE The monsoon arrived at Ceylon 10 days earlier than expected, and it was reported that the climbers faced a desperate race with the wind, after tho arrival of which further activity would be impossible. ' On May 21 Mr. Ruttledge brought the whole party back to Camp 1 for a short rest, as the mountain was temporarily impossible lo climb. The monsoon had by this time reached the south of tho l'<ay of Bengal. For a week the conditions were extremely baffling, and although the monsoon had reached the mountain, bringing heavy falls of snow. the party advanced to Camp 3. A second evacuation was necessary, however, on May 29, and the party's only hope oi success was a*" temporary break in the monsoon and the removal of the snow by the north-west winds. On June 1 these conditions were fulfilled, when the monsoon weakened, and a- strong northwest wind began blowing snow in great clouds from the mountain. The climbing party resumed its advance; up the Rongbuk'niacier, from which it would take at least seven days to reach the summit. The advance halted at Camp 2, but a high wind cleared the upper slopes and the climbers moved on to Camp 3. Careful reconnaissance of the North Col by Mr. Smythe confirmed the impression that the north-west wind had made an ascent justifiable, and the first assault party, consisting! of Messrs. Smythe and Shipton and their porters, attempted io reoccupy Camp 4. This attempt faded, as the deep snow on the. critical traverse made it impassable. The whole party was then forced to retreat, and although the conditions were exceedingly dangerous, all the members returned safely.