WOMEN'S WINDOW

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LIV, Issue 16622, 14 April 1928, Page 12

WOMEN'S WINDOW

COURT GLORIES. GARDEN IN SPRING. ENTIRELY NEW. LONDON. March 29. -Youthful debutantes.in semi-period dresses of the new pastel shades of chiffon, will make their Majesties' Court resemble a garden in the early spring, aecording to leading London dressmakers. The debutantes are selecting crocus and anemone rnauves, the pale yellow l of the priihrose, the deeper gold of the daffodil, the pink of the peach, and the blue of the rnin-wasked sky. Hundreds of yards of this material will be used in tiny frills or oneflounced skirts.

Georgette is the next favorite, and is also in pale tints and always jewelled and beaded. DELICATE SHADES.

Girls with well-defined features are choosing new shot taffetas, one of a delicate blue or mauve, with an opalescent sheen, and another of pale rose shot with silver.

Young matrons are purchasing lace, georgette and printed chiffon, the designs on these being either completely covered with beads, jewels, or embroidery, or outlined only, but thoy are never plain. They are also selecting soft Duchame satins, particularly a new blush rose tint which is pink Without a tinge of mauve or blue.

This pink is declared to be wonderfully becoming to both blondes and brunettes becnuso of its creamy ground-tone. Older women fancy a new departure in shaded materials. One design in crepe de chine shades from white to black, and has a border of gigantic gold butterflies. Another shades from beige, through fawn into blue, and is also bordered with gold. Nothing like these have been seen at Buckingham Palace before. ' FREEDOM FOR AFGHAN WOMEN. QUEEN'S PLAN FOR SOCIAL ADVANCEMENT. LONDON, February 22. Emancipation of the women of Afghanistan from age-old traditions will be one of the results of the visit of the King and Queen of Afghanistan to Europe, aecording to members of the Royal entourage. Some years ago the King made- a decree that young girls of his kingdom should no longer be obliged to accept husbands chosen by the head of the family. The decree aroused violent opposition, but King Amanullah had his way. Now the Queen's abandonment of the veil is considered another revolutionary advance. She intends, when she returns to Afghanistan to put into operation an elaborate plan for tho social and educational advance of Afghan Women. With this object in view she is making a study of French life, and of (he freedom of women in Western Europe.

EARS RETURN TO FAVOR, One of the most interesting features of the season's new styles in general appearance is the definite attempt to vary and improve hairdressinf fashions. Possibly' the most noticeable innovation is "the exposure of the car. The hair is drawn back behind the ears, even with the bob or shingle. With this new hair mode the, ear is not shown blatantly, as in tho Eton crop, but rather it peeps from a delicate background of hair. It is especially popular among girls who are just beginning to let their hair grow again. It is quite simple and very becoming to most people. There is a definite attempt to introduce coiffures somewhat less "mannish" and severe than the Eton crop. A number of fashionable women are wearing the "ringlc," the mass of small, soft curls at the back of the head and over the ears. At a notable dress show, the other day, several mannequins revealed the feminine charm of this mode, and wore with it the full, lacy and frilly gowns so much on display theso days. The elaborate "Empire" style has also' been seen at very big gatherings, where fashion was at its height. These styles have been chosen bocauso the head can also be bound in with ribbon as well as hair, and thus discrepancies of hair can be easily covered. In. fact, the Alice-in-Wondcrland hnir comb is quite likely to be revived, but in the form of narrow fancy ribbons tied round the head and fastened in a small bow at one side. This looks most attractive with bouffante taffeta frocks or satiny "period" gowns.

WOMEN AS CLUB .MANAGERS. TRIUMPH IN MAN'S LAST STRONGHOLD. The success of women as secretaries of several famous London clubs marks a now order in the stronghold of masculine pride and prejudice. The stoutest die-hards of Pall Mall are becoming reconciled, it is said, to the presence in their midst of feminino influences which would have caused the gravest alarm and horror a fpw generations ago. There is now more than one exclusive London club in which a woman has- been and has proved her ability, as secretary. One of the pioneers was Miss Yennard, who has been secretary of tlio Armv and Navy Club sinco last May. She 'also held the position for a time during the war, and proved her worth in those difficult days of food rationing. The Devonshire and Arthur's, both in St. .Tames' street, are among other famous clubs that now have women secretaries. At the Devonshire there has been a touch of romance, for a few years ago the able secretary, Mrs ,Perry, was married to a member, of the committee.

ROBIN HOOD SETS A FASHION. HATS OF LINCOLN GREEN. "OUTLAW" CAPES. A new and romantic, hunting ground for millinery ideas has been found by the Paris milliners, whose latest styles in hats a«3 inspired by tho headgear of Robin Hood and his merry band of archers. These hats are moulded on traditional lines in felt or straw, light in weight and pliable in texture, and two curved quills are jauntily poised at the side in the approved manner. Green is one of the lending colors of the season, and the Sherwood Forest hats are Jlkely to be popular. The pose of the rea'hers, too, is conducive to tho new backward tilt that the milliners are encouraging and their customers trying to acquire. Capes, some of them 'of the small shoulder vnriofy, pre appearing at the Paris show-".. Th-ve " 'iv possibly devoiop into triple three-tiered affairs of the highwayman type, arid so fall into line with the new outlaw millinery.

CLERICAL MODE. FASHION REVIVES COLLARS. , PLEATED LAWN. LONDON, March 1. One by one the old familiar feminine graces of fashion are returning in tho guise of the latest mode. This season the leading Paris dressmakers are featuring the detachablo collar of line white liuen, handkerchief lawn, organdie, or similar washable fabric. The "touch of white at the neck," was one of the points in the tailormade dress code that held its own through many decades. It is peculiarly becoming to the style and coloring of the average Englishwoman. STARCHED LINEN. The detachable collar is already appearing in a number of gowns ranging from the picturesque to the severely plain, mannish type finished with a small bow tie of black silk. These are of starched white linen and are high to the throat. A compromise in the matter of height is the clerical order of collar, which circles the base of the neck and fastens at tho back, and there is also tho little, tabbed neckwear associated with the barrister's gown and the white stock of the sporting world. These arc all smart accessories of dress, but are not every woman's wear. Two predominant styles that'will hold their own in popular collar fashion because they are easy to wear and becoming to almost all women arc the small plain linen collars that are slipped over the collar of the coat, arid the finely pleated fichu collars of lawn that cover the lapels as well as tho collar. Picot, hemstitched or scalloped'edges give the modern finish to this classic fashion of the fichu which ill-fated Marie Antoinette first conferred on ait eternally grateful world of women.

TROUSER SKIRTS. M POIRET'S CHALLENGE TO FASHION. Trouspr skirts for women are advocated in the interests of beauty and modesty by M. Paul Poiret, the Parisian dress creator, whose views on the ugliness of feminine knees, as revealed in the modern world of have been much discussed. Sixty-eight of the models in M.. Poiret's collection of ISO new fashions represent trouser skirts, which are intended both for evening and general outdoor wear, and are made in a wide range of materials. Each design accentuates the long, slender beauty of women's limbs, and is put forward as a challenge to the tyranny of kneo length and above-the- knee skirts. M. Poiret, who will present the case for the trouser skirt, supported by striking sketches of the picturesque and practical garments in his collection) in a special article on the woman's page of the Daily Express recently, claimed that, his trouser skirts are the embodiment of discretion. These skirts are attached below the knee, so that the skirt does not rise when its wearer sits down, explains M. Poiret, and he adds: "Who is not tired of the revelations of the ultra-short skirts'} I cannot believe that any woman of good, taste and refinement prefers them to the trouser skirts I am offering to those who really wish for something new."

WOMAN'S HAT OF HORSEHAIR. BAREHEADED EFFECT OF PARIS FASHION. LONDON, March 1. A. hat made of horsehair—the first of its kind seen in this country—arrived at- Self ridge's from Paris by air innil yesterday. The hat represents a woman's head of hair. It fits closely to the head and gives the impression' that the wearer is wearing no head covering, but has dark, shingled hair twisted into a coil over the ears. A warn at the hack convoys the impression of a parting going down to the nape of the neck.

WHAT TO DANCE? " The Prince of Wales has fallen a victim to the subtle, fascination of the Yale Bines. This is really a very slow io-k trot, with a few special steps introduced therein, and is usually played after everybody has been hopelessly endeavoring to waltz in the oldfashioned way and wondering how on earth anyone could keep it u]i half tile night. Even the polka is making a bold bid for foVivalj one of the best exponents being Lord Huntingficld, who recently won a prize in a competition; while Lady Oxford and A-squith lias more than once given an exhibition of the old-fashioned waltz at private parties, twirling round and round in dizzy circles to the quick time which used" to be popular.

ONE-SIDED EFFECTS. AUTUMN FASHIONS. "One-sided" is a fitting description of the newest silhouette, which both afternoon and evening frocks will follow, says a Sydney paper. An exemption is to be made only in the case of sports and street wear and other tailored clothes. These will remain short and straight, while the wrap-over skirt will be. the latest expression of the mode in this department of fashion. This one-sided effect is best in softlyclinging materials, and is eminently suitable for ring velvet, which is promised such a vogue this winter. Afternoon gowns of eharmaiite, crepe do chine, and crepe, surface silks, and evening gowns of all fabrics will take this dip to the side. It is newer than the peacock shirt, which, however, remains very fashionable. Sometimes the frock may dip at each side, and thus the panelled effect is gained. Onesided pleats, ono-sided embroideries, draperies, and handkerchief panels longer than the skirt itself, all will bo used to give the effect, and a one-sided narrow train has even been shown. This is carrying the fashion to extremes, arid a train of this sort would make a dress most cumbersome to the wearer, who would scarcely be able to walk with ease, let alone dance. A dipping skirt in a contrasting color to the body of the frock gives a smart effect. An afternoon gown by a famous French house was of citron yellow crepe do chine, with pointed' cuffs of black satin. There was a narrow belt of citron crepe around the waist, and in inserted drapery on black satin came from the right shoulder under the belt, and widened out towards Ihe hem, where it dipped longer than the skirt in a few soft pleats. A black chiffon shoulder posy and an onyx brooch formed the finishing touches to a smart toilette. Circular flared skirts are ::eut so as to dip at one side. This is ! particularly suitable for evening wear, and looks well in georgette and chiffon. Oh such frocks the waistline and hipline are always tightened in, and the bodice slightly blouscd. Excellence and intricacy of cut will be sought after in the coming season, and the apparent simplicity of a wellcut frock will be smarter than a much trimmed gown. Frocks Will not bo much bctrimmed. this winter, except for touches of fur. Fur will also be -.l.s'ert for Wraps and top coats in great quantities. Large cuffs 'like muffs, deep roll collars, deep borders at the hems, and even deep pockets will be made of fur. White fur is to be popular again, and black and •white—a color combination always chic —will be in the forefront of fashion. Even top coats for day wear, if of black material, will be banded with white fur, ermine, of course, being the iriost fashionable arid the most expensive. The woman with a limited income will find, however, that white fox, bleached hafe, or tho new white grooved coney, look equally well. Velvet, a fabric for which tremendous popularity is assured in the winter, ' will fotnv, the smartest coats, and will lend itself will to this black and white scheme, for nothing looks so well on black velvet as white fur. When white fur is used the lining is also white. Fur collars of the roll and shawl type will be of grooved fur, that is, fur which is dressed to give the effect of being in a series of horizontal stripes. Few'belts are to be seen on-'file new autumn arid winter coats. They are still of the wrap-over type', but'drawn more closely about'the waist, art effect achieved with narrow tnekings in groups. Tho sleeves will be baggy, to match the sleeves of the frocks over which they are worn, or else, in coats of the' strictly-tailored kind, they, will M stfaight and tight-fitting. Some raglan -<slcevod models have been' shown, but they have not the smart appoara7iee of the set-in sleeve, and so probnbly will riot he adopted wilh enthusiasm.

\vOMEN AS DIPLOMATS. That women are to be admitted intrt'the French diplomatic service was divulged by Madame Kraner Bach, editor of the Paris journal I'lnternational Feminin. She fold a meeting of Iho Women's Freedom League in London that signed consent had been given, and that a public announcement would be made shortly. So far their demand for the vote had been baffled by the good-natured indolence of the deputies and members of the Senate, who replied, "Yes, quite ro, but not just yet. In a little whil-, maybe." .' For economic independence, ]iow-,-vcr. Frenchwomen are ahead of their English sisters. There had been women barristers in France since 1901, and there were now 1 - 173 in Pans alone, mid over 1000 woman doctor*.