WOMEN’S WINDOW

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume LII, Issue 17058, 12 June 1926, Page 12

WOMEN’S WINDOW

BARE KNEES. SEVEN OUNCE FROCKS. FASHION SECRETS. (From tho London Evening News). Her knees beneath her petticoat, Like little miee, stole in :iml out; As if they feared the light. But oli! she dunces such a way— No sun upon no Easter day Is half so line a sight! Of course the old poet really said •''fool" and not knees. But that was simply because he didn’t Jive Jong enough to know anything about the modes of 1926. We privileged folk, who were allowed inside the closely-guarded drapery Exhibition which the Lord Mayor opened decently know better. For at one end of Hie groat halt—the climax of a hundred secrets of fashion which wore revealed to the favored few—were some mannequins wearing the new turned-down stockings. Their knees were bare. We caught glimpses of them as the haughty girls floated gracefully to and fro. “MARK MY WORD!” “Yes,” said the .Afan in Charge, “that’ll lie the new fashion in stockings. Mark my word, von ’ll see scores ■ofThare knees in London this summer.” Just off the main hall, where a hundred mannequins were floating about in a hundred marvellous .frocks, it was being whispered that dresses will be just as short this summer as last. “You can see that for yourself,” said one authority, pointing to some of the frocks. “Preparing for the bare knees?”! asked. “Ah!” said the Authority, “officially we in this part of the Exhibition don't know anything about knees. But I ’ll f ell you tins. Women this summer will wear less than ever.” “They can’t ” 1 said. •'“They can —and will,” he declared. PROOF. And I am able to tell the women of London (who are not allowed inside the Royal Agricultural Hall to find, out for themselves) that: be is right, I am sure of that because i went round and found out the exact amount of clothes that the fashionable woman will wear. Here is the table of weights: — Frocks .. .. "ox. Underclothing .. 6ox. Stockings .. • • loz. Shoes .. .. •• 16oz. Total .. .. dOoz. This beats last year’s record by several ounces. “Our flimsiest stockings weigh much less than an ounce,” said an expert. He picked up two whisp.s of diaphanous silk, “Sec these? They weigh only a quarter of an ounce and they cost" four and a half guineas. You could blow them away with a breath, yet there are 1.0 miles of silk in them.” “ JUST FASHION.” As for the dresses—well, there was one being worn by a-dainty mannequin 1 which would only just have turned the | scales at three ounces. Let us hope it is a warm summer. There was quite a little cluster of I people round the bathing-dress pavilIlion. AVe gazed entranced at the wax 1 maidens, who stood as though petrified in the act of diving into a layer of | .sand. Probably they had just notie- ! r-d the absence' of water, and had thought, bettor of it. The new bathing dress is loss daring than last year. "It insists on resembling an ordinary afternoon frock. [in fact, a woman could walk down Regent-street in it and not be noticed. ( “It’s just Ike fashion,” said the [man who designed it. “Take that, one over there, for instance. It looks Hke an ordinary dross, doosn’t it, with its little belt and so forth. Yet a woman could wade out to sea in it and not spoil it.

QUICK CHANGES. “Of course, we do make thinner ones. I’ve got one which only weighs a couple of ounces, and could be put comfortably into a small purse.

“The most expensive costs .li guiu eas. ”

It was quite an embarrassing experience for a man lo walkthrough, the Gilbey Hall. There were a hundred mannequins gliding about among the ranbow array of dresses —slim and plump, dark and fair. “We have all sorts of mannequins now,” said the man who was in charge of 20 of them. “AVe have plump ones to show dresses to plump women, thin ones for thin women, and so on. They’re hard workers, too. Perhaps they don’t look it, when you.see them lounging about; but each, one of them wears about Jot) different dresses in a day—something like £IOOO worth of beautiful frocks. “They’re all quick-change artists.’ ‘ ‘SUBDUED’ ’ STOCKINGS. The fashionable dress colors this year will be shades of rose, blue and pale green. Stockings will have six now colors: —Chartreuse, nacre rose, dollar, nacre violine, Bacchus, Manon. “London won’t see any vivid stockings,” I was assured. “All tho pinks are vanishing in favor of more subdued shades. Personally I think them dull and rather uninteresting: but then that’s the fashion. “A relieving feature is the diamante garters woven into some of llio stockings. 7 ’ In. this woman’s paradise there are just a few glimpses of men’s clothes (sovs a correspondent in the London Evening News). 1 gathered that men’s pull-overs- will be brighter. In fact. I saw some so dazzling with their splashes of scarlet and yellow tnat I positively blinked, DRESSES TBEVT~WEIGH 21 OZ. NEAV YORK. April 17. American modistes declare that American fashion experts wil refuse io follow the English, who in despatches from London" are quoted as saving that an English girl’s ballroom clothing this summer' will weigh thirty ounces. American dressmakers assert that the American girl’s summer dance costume will not' exceed sixteen ounces, of which the shoes, weighing nine ounces. take up more than half. The chiffon dress weighs two and a half ounces, and the remainder of the total is distributed over thin stockings, garters, and an undergarment.

AVEDING CUSTOM,S. THEIR ORIGIN. At no time in a woman’s life does impels)initial; hold her as during the period immediately preceding her marlin go, and the modern bride, even if she professes to be above such folly, finds that these details which have boon-handed down to us enveloped in romance and legendry significance for decades past, are not to be wantonly cast aside, as this, the most important step in her career. THE VEIL. The origin of tho bridal veil, which has always been a subject of much discussion, has never boon satisfactorily settled. . Tn anieenl Anglo-Saxon times four men held a square piece of cloth over the bride and bridegroom lo hide their blushes. THE BLUSHING BRIDE. Then controversy arose, and it was argued that the bride stood most in need of a covering, and from the cloth was evolved a gossamer and transparent. fabric which enhanced the bride’s loveliness. In Ireland the curious custom prevails of a bride procuring a sprig of hawthorn. ORAXCA- BLOSSOMS. The wren 111 of orange blossom, wit limit which the conventional bride would not deem herself properly attired, is credited to the Crusaders, who. it is said, borrowed it from the Saracens. In the Orient those flowers enjoyed great popularity in the decking of a bride, on account of the orange tree bearing ripo fruit and blossom simultaneously. SPANISH LEGEND. Tradition tells of a beautiful Spanish girl, the daughter of a- gardener in Royal favor, who owned a wonderful orange tree. She was in love, but her parent was too poor to give her a dowry, and her lover too poor to marry her without- one. It happened that the King of Franco sent an Ambassador to tho King of Spain to obtain a cutting of this famous tree. He bribed the girl by pledging himself to give her her dearest wish. She cut the blossom surreptitiously, and in exchange received the sum required for her dowry, and on her wedding-day wore a wreath of the flowers wnich had brought her such happiness. Their spotless petals bespeak innocence and purify, but, nowadays, brides frequently introduce a- touch of color to their bouquets as well as their gowns. BLACK AND WHITE FASHION. SKIRTS MANY INCITES LONGER. LARGE HATS. LONDON, April 1(1. A black-and-white Ascot is ilie little surprise which the dressmakers are about to spring on their clients of the smart world. The outer show-rooms of the fashionable dress houses at the moment .suggest gardens of roses in mid-June, for pinks in every tone —from petal and shell 1o the clear vivid modern pinkish reds—and greens in all the fresh young leaf tints are the supreme color:-; for the early part of -the season, including the first two Courts. Ascot, however, marks Ike climax of summer fashion, and by then —so the experts who cater for women’s dress needs contend —the rose shades will have begun to pall. “Whoa in doubt play tho magpie alliance,” is the dressmakers’ rendering of the card player’s convention, •mil so Ascot’s green lawns and gay flower-beds are to provide a radiant setting for black-and-white perfection in gowns and millinery. Diaphanous fabrics such as lace, chiffon, and georgette are the chosen medium of the dressmakers’ art. The Hobim of Jeanne Ascot model is in black lace over white georgette worn over an underslip which gives tho faintest flush of pink through the film of lace. Three large scarlet- flowers of georgette are poised at the waist. TIGHT- FITTING BODICE. Even more picturesque is another Ascot model made in black taffeta with tight-fitting bodice and extremely full skirt hemmed with a deep band oi white organdie. The skirt is longer by many inches than those usually worn, and white laee medallions are appliipiod on to the taffeta. Flowers again give the touch of color. Cornflowers, poppies, marguerites, and buttercups arc embroidered at the waist. Large hats will bo worn at Ascot with the blnek-and-white frocks; and, with the black shoes that are definitely making their way in well-dressed quarters, white stockings will be worn in preference to flesh color. FROCKS LIKE WALLPAPER. DADO OF CHINESE FIGURES. HAND-PAINTING. Wallpaper designs are giving a new note to dress (his season, and Ascot dross displays, now being prepared behind the scenes, will see two definite forms of the new vogue. ' These are the dado dress and the frieze frock, which almost explain themselves. Hand-painting, stencilling, embroidery, and. by no armanS Inst, the textile art, are the means by which smart frocks are made to vie with mural decorations. A striking example of the new trend in dress is shown in the Foutz. creation. It is an afternoon frock in ynarocain jn n curious old Chinese shade ol pink with m deep dado of Chinese figures painted in pinks and greens on a black ground. A coffee-colored beading or moulding above and below accentuates the dado effect. Frieze frocks in which the patterned borders of the fabric arc Used in the upper portion of the frock are a variation of the same wallpaper trend j n fashion. Both the dado and the frieze designs are used in a variety et fabrics, georgette, crepc-ile-chine, cluffen. marocain, and taffeta. Brodonc Anglaise and guipure lace over black taffeta, both favorite trimmings of t'he moment, also lend themselves to the dado idea.

AMERICAN LADY ’H TOUK. WORKING HER \VA V -KOFXD THE WO Iff,!). 'Mix'; Irene Hansen, :m American student of (juvenile psychology, is working her wav round tin* world, and at present is occupied in an office in Hu went, AI iss Ha list'll, during mi interview with a Slur reporter to-du.v, told an interesting story. She was horn in Toledo (pop. 200,(100), State of Ohio, and after a high school education she took a university course in kindergarten work, specialising in child psychology. She spent one year at; the Bureau of Juvenile Research in Coluinluis. There a study is made of (ho mentalities of sub-normal, or criminally-inclined, children upon a nervous basis. After some years’ work as head of tin 1 psychological department of the Akron public schools, .Miss Hansen, in company with -Miss E. Fay Drury, considered the possibility of a trip around the world, earning the necessary money on route. The two young women set out intent upon deciding whether academically educated people could make good out of their environments. They were also interested in minimum wage problems. Leaving Toledo on July 17, 1024, they motored their own car through K> States. After a week at Yellowstone Park they pushed into Oregon, securing there their first work —hoppicking. They were desirous of proving themselves in their own country before going abroad. The traveller? made use of the city touring camp sites found till over the United States, fit these, said AI iss Hansen, hot water, shower baths, gas or electric stoves, and substantia] community buildings were available at a. cost of L’d or .10 cents a day. The tourists carry their own tents on their cars. The fair “-boaters of their wav" remained eight months in Los Angelos, and secured a living by working as waitresses, housemaids, writers of appetising copy, -store clerks, drink mixers in a soda fountain, and assistants in a sandwich shop. Confident in their übiquity, Miss Hanson and her companion went to ’Frisco, and on to Sydney. In the .Yew South Wales metropolis they foil upon their feet. A letter of introduction gave them entry to flu* ‘‘ Feminist” Club, from the members of which they received liberal hospitality. In New South Wales living—and a bank account —was gained by working in tea-rooms, in a secretarial capacity, and by jut-k----ing cherries at Orange. . The venturesome Americans sailed for New Zealand on January 14, and their first fortnight was occupied by sight-seeing in Auckland. From the northern centre they progressed to iiolorua. Short of funds, they secured employment as waitresses in one of the large hotels. During their first two days in the thermal district they devoted (heir remaining coin to seeing the wonders of the neighborhood, then got down to the cap and apron again, and the accumulation of travelling expenses. Miss Hanson’s penultimate move was to Wellington. In the course of an interview with the Now Zealand I Publicity Agent, .Mr. Messenger. Miss Hansen was introduced do a II aw era business man, and inquired after and secured a position on his office staff. Spring hats. It's curious how tradition makes us spend money—quite delightfully, f’il admit. Tims tradition has it we must wear a no\V hat on Easter .Sunday, It’s an unwritten law my dears, and what woman, T ask you, is there who would forego this pleasure, even if she has to do without “something for breakfast” to make up the housekeeping accounts? Not sunny. In consequence, the millinery salon,: have been so full it ’s impossible to get served. I can’t say 1 am wholly .in love with Easter hats this year. rTie v crowns are most unbecomingly high, and the brim narrow, which in many cases gives a pinched, ugly look to the head. 1 find one lias to be very careful in selecting a hat, for it’s not every one can still go oil wearing -little or no brim, and I noticed all the smartest women about are those who have adopted flu* wider brim effect; possi.blv had the hat made for them, I saw one adorable hat with a soft sort of tammy low crown, entirely made of 11at velvet roses, in shades of bois rose and rose pink. 1 loved it; it was charming. “That, madam,” said the sylph serving me, “is.a little French model, Hi guineas.” 1. fled. Yes, I thought, one can get ravishing hats to suit one, if only one can or will pay the price. it was a bit of a facer when 1 was looking for something cheap to carry me on to Whitsuntide, when summer modes proper will flood the shop windows. .FRIVOLOUS FOOTWEAR. Isn’t it funny when men and women look so much alike, from the top ot their heads to their knees, that such a transformation starts there, with the absurdly frivolous footwear we women are weaving. It’s quite true our shoes have boon fanciful —indeed, really absurd—for tin* weather in which they arc worn. All Iho elaboration lacking’ in our costumes is concentrated in our feet, and the more dainty our shoos, and the less of them, the better. It ’s quite do rigneur !o wear beige satin shoes with frocks of that; very wide category of color in the daytime in town, and as they only possess dancing soles you may guess what a lot of protection they are against the elements. These strange inconsistencies belong to Dame Fashion, I know, but they are curious. Then take dancing shoes. Were they ever so elaborate? Jewelled, and blazing wit)i brilliant tones of wonderful material, they are oti.cn a gorgeous finish to the toilette. Straps, cut-outs, scrolls. inenisted with sparkling diamante, trim the very smartest; indeed, nothing and no sort of ornamentntion is considered too mncli. Yet the weaving oi nutch jewellery has steadily declined. This again is" n strange vngnrv of fashion. Of course, it ’s impossible to say for what reason these whims are accepted, but accepted they are by the very best-dressed of our women.

SOCIAL JOTTINGS

(Bv “Yvonne.”)

Mr. George Busby Mini Miss Molly Busby, Tokomarn Bay, are staying in town at the Masonic Hotel.

Mr. anil Mrs James Beeves and Air. ft. Beeves, Tolaga Bay, were in town during the week, staying at the Gisborne Hotel. * *• * * Aliases Millar and Galliehau were among those who visited Napier for the Pavlova season. They are very busy at present with rehearsals for the pantomime, “Goldilocks and the Three Bears,” which they are staging in a •lew weeks time. * * * At isse’s Nancy Eastwood and Kill no Pa-liridgo went to Napier to see Pavlova. » * * * The Aliases Caldwell, Miss Joan 'McKenzie and Air. Dawson Chrisp motored through, to Napier to attend one of •Pavlova’s concerts. * •» * * Miss Molly Bull went io Napier to be present at Pavlova’s first performance there.

Sister Brewer was amongst the visi tors to Pavlova.

Misses Toma and Nancy Chrisp visited Napier to witness Pavlova’s dancing and other visitors included Aliases Nonna and Elina Easley and Miss Jessie Tift'e.n.

Air. and Airs Lawrence ..Tex-Blake are visiting relatives in town for a few (lavs.

Mrs. A. C. doLautour has returned to town after a few weeks spent, at Alangapoike, where she has been the attest of Airs. L. Jex-Blake.

# * * * ’ Mrs K. ft. Williams has loft for a holiday to ftydnev.

On Wednesday the hounds met at Awnpuni, and a large number of followers enjoyed an exciting chase. A perfect day added to the pleasure of the onlookers.

i Miss Bhiela AfcLood, who is shortly accompanying her family to Hastings, 1 entertained a number of friends this afternoon.

! Atrs If a riling, Gisborne, aeoompan ied bv Miss Wilson, of Wellington, ,i: on a short holiday at Waipukurau.

The engagement is announced of Etta, younger daughter of Air. Fred .Earl, K. 0.. to Air. William Shuttleworth, of Kemuera.

The engagement is announced of Alisa ■Betty Jolly, third daughter of Air and Airs Frank Jolly, Frankton Junction, and Mr. Bupert Worley, of Ham iivon, youngest son of the kite Air. and Mrs Yv. F. VVorlov. Nelson.

The many friends of Airs ,T. W. Nolan will regret to learn that she is :t patient at Kostrcvor Hospital, and •wtu wish her a speedy restoration to health.

Miss Prudence dose Collier, of Dunedin, lists been admitted, its a solicitor if the .Supremo Court by His Honor Air. Justice ftim.

Alias Marjorie Orr, formerly of Gisborne, who is well known to many people in this district, is at present the inmate of a private hospital in Hastings, where she lias -undergone a serious operation.

A wedding of some interest in legal ■circles in .announced to take place shortly in London. The bride-to-be .is the only chi-1 til of Air. ft. H. Leonard, of Oak wood ‘Court, Kensington, (Recorder of Penzance, for some time ’Examiner in Law for New Zealand, Universities. Miss Leonard is a niece of Air. H, Grierson, Geraldine. * * # * 'The engagement is typp-otuiecd of Etta, younger daughter ,of Air. 'Fred Earl, K.C., to Air. 'William Shuttleworth, of ißcmuera. Mr. ion cl Mrs Peter L. HaaoUl, of Ardmore road, Herne Bay, celebrated their golden wedding on June They were married in ftt. iFraneis ! ’ Olmrch, Thatn.es., in IS7(*, and resided there for nearly lIP years, after which they re-' moved to Herne Bay. N * * ‘ # «• G’lio engagement is announced gl’j Dorothy, elder daughter of Air. and Mrs J. ft. Mathoson. .Waipaoft, Gisborne, to Leslie, eldest son of Mrs TP Brown, Toa Ton, -Bay of plenty. ,* « ' * When Miss- Holland, principal of; Woodford House, Havelock North,, leaves for a six months'’ visit to England next year, Lady Marjory ' Dal 1 ryiupje will till the position until Miss’ Holland’s return. ■* 4* * » jY ftvdnoy ptiper devotes a column ■to Miss Willis, of • Wellington, As-; sistant, Inspector of Hospitals and; ■Mid wives, under the Health Department of. Now Zealand. 'Miss Willis'; ■lias given a dear and •concise state-, ment of the work done by the women; of the department, and the statement is made that the trainees in the nttrs-' tag profession in Now Zealand are in a favorable position compared with those of New South Wales. * « * * Mrs Kathleen At. Bennett, speaking at the weekly luncheon 6f the ftoroptimist Club, Auckland, explained how busy women can keep themselves, ‘healthy .and ‘beautiful. “fti.t well, stand well, walk well and breathe well,” were the four simple rules she laid down. “Our Queen,” -site said, •‘giver, us a per,fed example of how a woninai should stand and sit,. She has the secret of grace,i dignity and elegance. ’ ’ * * *

An Auckland correspondent states : haf at the raws .ih.o frocking was brilliant in coloring. Bright blues, flaming reds, and rich purples were the vogue for raincoats instead ol the more sombre tones usually seen. The writer offers the suggestion that this fashion is a very commendable one, as it lightens five gloom of a Vinter day considerably. Small hats and •loosely-,knot,tod scarves were chosen

to match the gay coats, and even the chubby umbrellas were of bright tints*. This colorful scheme defied the gloom of -nature,-and -made a .bright ness which was quite cheering. Full length, tailored coats with high fur collars were also a popular choice, and many fur coats were seen. The wearers .of 1 Jussi an boots were to be congratulated on sensible footwear, so far. as the rnud and wet were concerned, and scored .over those who .had come out .iiii the usual thin “race'’ shoes.

Two former pupils of the Nelson ‘Girls’ .College have recently won h ig'h academic 'honors. Dr. Muriel Bell .has the distinction of being the first woman to gain the New Zealand M.D. degree. She won a University ,Entranee Scholarship .while a pupil of the College in J9.lf>. Proceeding to Oi.a,go University she gained her M. 8., Cli.B In 192 1, and now .-holds the post of Assistant to the Professor of Physiology in Dunedin. Miss Ohtissio Bell has passed tlm M.A. degree, with •first class honors in mathematics, obtaining remarkably high percentages in her six papers, viz., 915, 9,7, 98. 98, 100, 100. Miss Bell is at present .Assistant jo the Professor of Mathematics .at. -the Otago University. .Both girls are '.to be heartily congratulated on -their brifiiaut achievements.

The annual entertainment of the; Victoria League in Auckland look the ‘town -of aii Umpire ball this season,, and the Herald says: “The ballroom' was decked with roses. A brilliant and efl'octiyo scene was presented .in which u gay company mingled, reminiscent of tut old-world, grace in '-their .pannier, ed shirts and ruffled shirts. Palms and -ferns, sheaves of flax, and wands of bamboo converted the on-j -frauce hall into a bower of greenery, and in the ballroom a rosy glow was' shod from the rose-shaded lights from which were suspended loops of roses in shades of crimson and pink. Trails of roses also festooned.the gallery and outlined the stage, which was decorated with pot plants and ferns and arranged .as ,a .comfortable lounge, lii the supper-room an effective scheme of decoration was carried out in deep yellow and gold. Yellow shades enveloped the electroliers, round which were .entwined trails of greenery, and ;On Hie tallies yellow and gold Iceland poppies were arranged with charming •effect. The guests on arrival were received by the president of the league, Miss .T. Mowbray, and members of the committee, who, holding staffs •of roses, formed an avenue down the centre of the ballroom. A feature of (lie evening was the gavotte sets, which were arranged in harmonising shades of blue and green and rose, and to correspond with 1 ho. dresses of the girls, the men wore colored .lapels on their coats and ruffled shirts. In one set the underskirts of blue were draped with floral panniers of gold and brown. In another set the paunicrod frocks were icffectively designed in green and mauve tissue, and the rose sot was in a deep shade of pink with panniers of rose-patterned silk. A MARRIAGE OVERSEAS. Mr. and Mrs A. Booby, of Rodeliffs (Canterbury), have received a cablegram announcing the marriage, at Manchester, England, of their son, • 'larenc.e, to Mias Beatrice Ncwnhain, of Christchurch, Now Zealand. Air. Booby left Ik’months ago from. Canterbury College to take a two years’ course at Manchester University. Miss Newuham is well known in teaching circles in Christchurch, and left. New Zealand a few weeks ago with her mother. The honeypioon will be spent on the Contra on t. PAVI,,OTA THE WONDERFUL. What can one say of Pavlova? One needs the imagination of a poet to do her justice.- '“The poetry-of motion” is a hackneyed phrase, but Pavlova fully realises it. My evening at His Majesty ’s, Auek--Imi cl (writes -a. correspondent), was one of unending delight. After seeing Pa-vlo.va and her dancing partner Novikoff and the ,members of the ballet one realises how great an art dancing may be. Every movement meant something. The dressing and settings were .beautiful. For the Enowflako Ballet there was a winter scene, with tree branches 1 laden -with snow, snow falling, and 1 Pavlova, Novikoff and the members of the ballet in white, glistening with diamonds. It -.w-rts' all wondrousdy beautiful

A grand opera orchestra of -over 20 players was under the control of a master musician and conductor, M. Lueien Wurasor.

DINNER JACKETS FOR DAY ) WEAR. WOMEN COPY MEN’S SHIRTS |i AND TIES. BUTTONHOLE VOGUE. The men’s 4inner jacket fashion .for women, which began its present career •as a striking novelty -in feminine -evening dress, is aiow influencing the out-) •door tailor-made. Oi\o of the suits that women aroj ordering is the coat and skirt of line) black cloth, with flic coat cut and tin-) ished -on the lines of a man’s dinner) jacket. ' Various details in the way oil aeces-.j sories are also borrowed from the mas-| culinc wardrobe. The open front ro-jj veals an expanse of the immaculate; white linen, -lawn,’ or e t repc do Chine. : Women prefer the turn-down' collar,j but .the neat black dress bow tie is ob-.; -vaousiy copied from the masculine tic,! and a single white flower is pinned in; the buttonhole. There is an idea that this Paris’! mode of the ’dinner jacket for street • wear may meet with more success than ! the attempt to .induce EnglishwomenT to wear exotic “smoking” suits in-) stead of the conventional evening) frocks.