GLORIOUS FAILURE.

Poverty Bay Herald, Volume L, Issue 16495, 30 July 1924, Page 9

GLORIOUS FAILURE.

MARKED BY TRAGEDY

BRITAIN THRILLED BY STORY OF EVEREST.

DEFEAT BY WORLD’S GREATEST MOUNTAIN.

LONDON, June 27.—‘‘So we have no excuse. We have been beaten in a fair light—beaten by the height of a mountain a ltd by our own shortness of breath. But tho tight, was worth it, worth it every lime, and wc shall 'cherish the privilege of defeat by the world’s greatest mountain.’'

This is the story of another brave but tragic and unsuccessful attack upon Mount Everest, towering among the Himalayas to the greatest elevation, on the face of the globe. Mallory and Irvine, two members of Hie intrepid party which, in charge of Lieutenant-Colonel E. E. Norton, sought to conquer the mountain, perished in the last long drive. The story of the tight in tlie piercing winds of the high mountain top is told in a special cable from Lieutenant-Colonel Norton, in which is also included an account by Dr. Somervell. The narrative stands out as a thrilling story of British heroism in the face of the greatest danger and difficulty. THE FINAL PHASES. Colonel Norton’s narrative follows: Camp No. 3 (21,000 ft.), East Rongbuk Glacier, June 8. .■ 1 dictate the eighth despatch from camp No. 3. 1 say “dictate,” as I am unable to write, as' T am just recovering from an acute’attack of snow-blindness; whereof more anon. Geoffrey Bruce, jack-of-all-tradcs, is my secretary. Both of us having had a “go” at high altitudes, fcol that this particular kind of work for the moment is what exactly suits us. Above is Everest, somewhat powdered with fresh snow, still and windless, and half-shrouded in that type of damp, sticky cloud which surely this time presages the advent of the monsoon Every eve in camp is turned on the final pyramid. Expectation is at its keenest, for somewhere there the final attempt, as if must inevitably be, is at Ibis moment deciding the success> or failure of the 1924 expedition. When last T wrote 1 explained that the original plan would’ require modification, partly owing to the uncertainty, more definitely owing to the exhaustion, physical and moral, of the porters. I propose shortly to describe tho psychology of these interesting men in more detail. At present it must suffice to say that Geoffrey Bruce and Shebbeare, who know them best, agreed that twelve to fifteen at the time of the return to the assault was the maximum to be depended upon to go beyond (lie normal 23,000 ft.

It behoved us to cut our coat according to our doll). At a conference of climbers at camp No. 1 on May 27 it was decided that for the present the use of oxygen must be discarded; (bat a series of at least two attempts without oxygen, sleeping two nights on the mountain above 23,000 ft. with the absolute minimum of organisation, should be made. Afterward as the fates may deeide. Another precious day of the fine weather was sacrificed on May 28 to the recuperation of the climbers. No doubt (lie results repaid the risk. The day further was utilised by those ingenious and infallible mechanics, Odell and Irvine, in constructing a rope-ladder from the Alpine rope tent- pegs, to enable leaded porters to negotiate safely the ice chimney leading Locarno No. 4, of which you have already heard. Like all work of the well-known firm of Odell and Irvine, this proved a most complete success. THE LAST CLIMB.' The weather now was apparently almost perfect for our purpose. The mountain day after dav was standing clear-cut in the azure, day after day even a streamer of clouds, the hall-mark of the master peak, was lacking from the master of all. The preliminary monsoon symptoms had entirely disappeared, vet- we all knew that the monsoon might at any moment he on us in full force.

The parties selected for the first two assaults were Mallory, Bruce and Somervell ; myself, with ' Odell and Irving, supporting. On the north column the party reached camp No. 3 on May 30, accompanied by Noel and his kinema outfit. Hazard, designated to support from camp No. 3. arrived a day later. Beetham, unluckilv suffering from /an acute attack of sciatica, determined not td be out of the hunt, had \broken off from the doctor’s supervision at the base camp and struggled manfully to camp No. 3 with his usual determination, prepared to cook, climb or carry—indeed to support the climbers in any way It was my painful duty to return him to th© base camp with an order to release Kingston, so that the doctor should be available to ascend to here and look after possible casualties. (It is unforgettable that the 1924 expedition was under strength.)

With the above climbing parties at camp No. 3 wove assembled that gang of porters who were considered still reliable to go higher. They were fifteen in number and distinguished by the name of “Tigers.” At the stage set for the final attempts on the mountain the weather continued perfect. On June 1 Mallory and Bruce, accompanied by nine of the “Tigers,” camped at north column (Changla). establishing cn route the rop.e ladder. Odell and Irvine were to remain in support at camp No. 4. On June 2, still apparently under perfect weather conditions. |wo climbers and eight porters started up the great north ridge to establish camp No. 5, but (lie weather on Mount Everest is not always what it seems. Once past the jumble of the crevasses and seines separating camp No] 4 from True col. a bitter north-west wind, and one of the most formidable foes we have to face on Mount Everest, smote the little party. E.vcry member was equipped with every device of windproof clothing that experience could invent, yet such is the keenness of the wind that it appeared to have the doublo quality of both penetrating through and yet nearly blowing the laden porters out of their stops. Progress up the north ridge of Mount Everest is a fight against wind and altitude, generally on rock, sometimes on snow at an average angle of 45 degrees. PORTERS GIVE IN.

Camp No, 5 was to he situated on Urn sheltered side of the ridge at about 25,300 ft. At about 25.000 ft. the endurance of (he porters began to flag, and of eight of them only four made camp under their own stertm. The remainder deposited their loads, unable to go on.

While!Mallory set to work to organise the camp, Bruce and one hob Sang, meriting the distinction of being one of tho leaders of the “Tigers,” made two trips back from the level of the camp and brought up the missing loads on their own bucks. Whites cannot carry loads at these altitudes with impunity, and it is scarcely to be ■wondered at that Bruce’s heart was strained, happily only temporarily, in this fine performance.

1 Camp No. 5 was now established—-two fragile 10 pound tentlcts, perched on an

almost precipitous slope. The tents occupied by the non-oxvgen party in 1922, collapsed and held in position by big stones, were clearly seen 2(X)ft. below. According to plan, Jive porters now returned to camp No. 4, three picked ones being retained to sleep the night and Carry the camp some 2000 ft. higher on the morrow. i

Obviously everything depended upon tho physical condition and the morale of these three men. The most persuasive powers of Bruco could' elicit little enthusiasm from them as to their next day’s task. Apparently the wind had taken the heart out of them. With no rosy anticipations, the party went to bed with the sun still gilding the tops of the surrounding mountains, after the utterly miserable but inevitable routine in high altitudes, of cooking dinner.

It was intended to make an early start the next morning. This had been done. Therefore it is not impossible. But when Tibetan porters are concerned, it certainly approaches the limits of the possible. Making a long story short, a series of visits to the men's lent, while the white climbers' breakfast was being prepared, produced' in the end nothing but the unwelcome information that only one was lit to proceed. The other two professed to be sick, and totally unable to carry a load.

Bruce talks their language fluently, has a. great influence over them, and there was not the slightest doubt that if anybody could have stimulated them to' go cm it was he. It was fairly evident that the! three porters had shot their bolt and that nothing more was to he. got out of them. After a brief consultation it was decided to, return to Camp 4.

Half-way down, a party under Somervell and myself, timed to follow the footsteps of th e first party one day behind, was met. (The doings of t-ho> second party will be separately chronicled by Somervell.) Mallory and Bruce on arrival at north col were met by Odell and Irvine' who were fulfilling for the first time in the history of Mount Everest climbing, the office of supporters. Since 1922 we have recognised the necessity of this role, picturing the comfort to a returning party of weary climbers which such support might afford.

The most optimistic imaginations fell short of the reality as produced by that, “well known firm.” for over a week these two have lived on north col at 23,000 feet and have cooked every meal, and only those who have dene it can appreciate the recurring hatefulness of this operation. They have gone out, day and night to escort and succor returning parties of porters and climbers over intricate; approaches to camp, carrying lamps, drinks and even oxygen to restore the exhausted. They hav e run camp and tended sick, and Odell, for one, has been down to camp tlne'C, escorting parties' or fetching provisions on three consecutive days. Whether we reach the top or not. no member of the climbing party can put more weight in the team than those lwo by their unostentatious,' unselfish, gruelling work.” DR. SOMERVELL’S STORY. The following is Dr. Somervell's story of Colonel Norton and bis climb to 28,000 feet Tho weather'was looking more and more sottlcd every day. On May 30, as Norton and I toiled up the glacier for the third time this year to camp three, we felt at last- that wo were going to he allowed a, shot at (lie peak itself, and not lie merely baffled and foiled by a, blizzard or hurricane at some comparatively low level. On June 1 we went up the steep ice of north col with a few porters, and on arrival at the camp at, the top of the pass heard that the other party had got off early and were nrobablv even then settling in at 25,C00 feet. We si out well that night. Beds of snow are much more .comfortable than those of the stores at the camp below, i Early on the morrow w© set out for the upper camn, six porters carrying extra food and bedding to replace what Mallory and Bruce had taken up with' them to a still higher bivouac. As we crossed over the snowy shoulder of north col to the windv western side, the blast was most chilling. We drew our fur caps over our ears, tightened our belts and went as fast as the altitude permitted in order to keen warm. For, though the sky was cloudless and the weather settled, Everest, can provide on the finest day a wind chilling to the marrow. We had not been, going long when Mallory and Bruce and their porters appeared above, coming down fast, an unexpected and unwelcome sight. They tokl us how thew had made camp with two little tents, how the;stoutest porter was sick and how others were unable or unwilling to go on. So there was nothing for us but to come back and bone for success out of the attempt in tbs second of the series. Very apprehensive as to the attitude of our own porter? on the morrow, Norton and T plunged along nn an easy shoulder leading for over 4000 feel from north column up toward the northeastern summit rid,.© of Everest. We found Mallory a»d tpnts pitchod cm the steep but sheltered side of the si i nil Idee.

Keeping four oT our purlers in camo, where I bey spent ftp night in n.suaee 6ft bv sft. \vp proceeded to sc'tle d'-wn in 'the olbrr lot. of similar she. The floor had Peon levelled bv our oredeeps. sors and after making a (rood mod of pemmicaii and bullv beef, coffee and biscuits, we spout a. fair night, durin" at least half of which we, slept, finrlbnr no discomfort from the altitude or diffic"ltv in hi'cathin".

GLORIOUS, SUNNY DAY FOR NEW

DASH. Another glorious, sunny day followed, ■and we were delighted to find lliree of the porters willing to proceed and carry loads, tepf, bedding and food to Die mjxt. stage. One) porter especially deserved credit, as he luid cut his knee rather deeply oil a stone the previous evening.

The easy scree of yesterday became looser as wc got 1 duller and foggy as well, as temper suffered in the weary plod from 25,0(10 to 26,700 feet, where scree gives place to sloping slabs covered willv small stones, which render t|bc footing* rather precarious. We all found the views most .attractive, not only for their magnificence, but as excuses for frequent halts. Indeed, the halts were necessary as wo went along, as they enabled ns to keep breathing sufficiently for! our bodily needs.

Finally, at a height of 26,700 feet, in a rocky little bason on the ridge, wc had to stop and pilch o'ur tent. The situation was far from ideal, but it seemed the best available in the vicinity, and on Everest you have got to take- what- you can get- and lie thankful. A lot- of levelling had (o lie done, but the wind was kind, and although by no means what we could have do sired, the tent was at least habitable. Three faithful porters returned to camp four quite fit, and armed with a- nolo setting forth their prowess and suggesting its reward with a feast at the lower

camp, where no doubt they had the meal of their lives. In our tiuv font we cooked a good brew ,of coffee and a little soup, blit the altitude was attacking our appetite, and wo could not fancy more than a morsel of solid food. Filling the thermos with coffee for the morrow in order to avoid having to cook before an early start, wo settled down for the night. Both of us were surprised, we got some, sleep at any rate, though not very much; hut when morning arrived we were well rested and untroubled by breathing and the other effects of the great altitude. PLENTY OF LIQUID.

Wo got np, full of hope, as dawn was breaking; but there was an early disappointment. Alas, tile thermos had shed its cork during the night and wo had to waste nearly an hour melting snow in order to make more liquid. For both of us remembered how in 1922, at a somewhat similar altitude, thirst above everything destroyed stamina and going power, and wo were determined to start onr final climb with plenty af fluid inside.

At last we got going about 6.45 a.in. and trudged slowly up the broad, rocky shoulder, slanting across toward our right in the direction of the summit, for there the goiqg .seemed easiest.

Moreover, in that direction was a patch of sunlight. Our side of the ridge was in shallow and very cold, and we thought climbing in the sunshine correspondingly attractive. I At length, panting, puffing and sometimes slipping hack on the scree ana compelled to stop for a minute to regain our breath, wo attained sunlight and soon began to lie warm. We crossed a snowy patch with Norton gallantly chipping stews in front, and reached the dread yellow hank of rock which is such a conspicuous feature in distant views of the mountain.

Tiiis rock was weathered into horizontal ledges, some torn or more, feet wide, and provided a safe and easy route lowan! the summit ridge. So up these ledges we went, pulling ourselves, with heavy breathing, from one' to another and walking along them occasionally for respite, and always keeping upward and to the right, hoping by those means to avoid some of the loose-looking rock on the north-eastern ridge above. Dili the altitude was beginning to tell severely on us. At about 27,500 feet there was an almost sudden change. A little lower down we could walk comfortably. Taking three or four breaths for each step, but now seven, eight or ten complete respirations were necessary, for every single step forward. Even at this slow rate of progress, we had to indulge! in a rest for a minute or two at every twenty or thirty yards. In fa.l. we were getting to the limit of our endurance. THE ENI) (TP THEIR TETHER. At tho level of somewhere about 28.000 I told Norton I could only hinder him and his chance of reaching the summit if I tried to get any further, as an intensely sore throat added greatly to the misery of ihv tight. 1 suggested he should climb (he mountain if he could by himself, and settled down on it sunny ledge to watch him do it. Blit Norton himself was not far from the end of Iris tether. From my seat 1 saw him slowly rise, but how slowly, and after an hour 1 doubt whether lie had risen eight feet above my level. He realised that a successful issue to the fight was impossible, and after a littlu returned. We agreed, reluctantly that the game: was up. On the way to the Jumimil was a patch of loose rock where it. was desirable men should he roped together, but two men, more or less “done, to the world” were unable to hope to reach the top within a. good many hours, and it was now 2.30 in the afternoon, So, with our heavy hearts beating aver 180 lo the minute, we returned rind retraced our steps, but slowly, for even down-hill movement at this altitude is rather hard; breathless work, and both of us required frequent rests for regaining o'qr breath and resummoning our energy. The view from the topmost point that we reached and indeed all the way up, was quite beyond words for its extent and magnificence. Gynching and Cliouyo, among the -highest mountains in the world, were over 1000 feet bonenfh us. Around them we saw a perfect sea of finei peaks, all giants among mountains, all as dwarfs below ns. The splendid dome of P.umeri, finest of Everest’s satellites, was but an incident in the vast array,of peak upon peak. Over the plain of Tibet, a distant range gleamed 200 miles away. The view, indeed, was indescribable and simply seemed to be above every thing in the world and to have a glimpse almost of God’s view of things. But we were far from being gods ourselves, tired and breathless as we were, 'tila very epitome of human limitations. We revisited our high camp and there packed our ruck sacks and set off again down hill. We found the screecovered slabs slow and annoying and when we finally reached a snowy shoulder at 25,000 feet, where the going became easier, the sun had set and still we had 2000 feet lo negotiate in darkness. BEATEN IN FAIR FIGHT. How well we remembered the same place in 1922, when we two, witlKMallory, were exerting every effort to get down. But this time I was the invalid and my congested throat allowed me to breathe only at a certain and all too moderate rate. I fear that my extremely slow progress must have annoyed Norwood fearfully, though, of course, he said nothing about it. Flashes from our electric torch aroused the north column to activity and Mallory and O’Dell came up with lanterns, while Irvine brewed tea, and soup in camp against 1 onr return.

How we welcomed their presence as supporters in camp and contrasted our experience in 1922, when four of us returned to an empty camp and went to bed with empty stomachs. This time we reached camp at 9.30 p.m.. Within an hour we were fed, wanned and fast asleep. Norton is still recovering from severe snowblindness, unfortunately contracted on the climb. I can almost speak aloud again. We are both rather done in too. in* general condition. but are satisfied that we, had (lie weather aud a good opportunity for a fight with our adversary. There is nothing to complain of. We established camps—our porters even at the highest altitude, nearly 27,000 feet, and we had gorgeous days for the climb, almost windless, and brilliantly fine, yet we were unable to get to the summit.

So we have no excuse. We have been beaten in a fair fight—beaten by the height of the mountain and by otlV own shortness of breath —but the fight was worth it, worth it every time, and wo shall cherish the privilege of defeat Iv the world’s, greatest mountain.

We now await news of. Mallory and Irving, who to-day arc making another attempt, hoping that- they may reenforce tlie feeble summit, air by artificially provided oxygen and by its means, be able to-conquer the chief difficulty of reaching the summit. May the genii of thy steel bottle aid them. All of us are hoping, he may, for nobody serves the summit more than Mallory, the only

(Jim of out' iiumber who has been at it for. three years. Tlios ends Somervell’s story. NORTON’S NARRATIVE.'

Colonel Norton, resuming his naira, live, says: Two attempts without oxygen failed (o' reach the summit. 1 hope to discuss later in your columns the vexed question whether success on these lines was possible or not. In any ease, I was delighted to find on our arrival at camp four on the night of June 4 as .Mallory had rightly determined in my absence, that there must be one more attempt, and that immediately, and, if possible, with oxygen.

Bruce, the condition of whose han't definitely prevented him from taking part in another attempt, had already gone down to camp three to see if it were possible to supply sufficient porters to put on oxygen so as to mako the -attempt with an obsolutefy minimum load. The men were forthcoming. Mallory had already decided that the climbers to make this final assault should be himself and Irving.

On the morning of June 6 these two with eight porters started for eump five, intending to sloop tile following night at camp six and to make the assault on the summit to-day. Their movements are shrouded in the. mist of mystery, but one brief notei reached us yesterday from their perch near the top of the north, ridge by the hand of a returning-porter. It is to the effect that Noel, with the cinema., should be on the lookout, for (hem about the base of the final pyramid that starts 650' feet from the top at- 8 o’clock this morning. Returning porters report- that the pair were going exceedingly strong with oxygon yesterday. From every point of view' tho situation is dramatic. One more small incident is worth noting. During the niglit of June 4-5, on north eol. I was smitten with acute snow blindness, and for sixty hours was completely and absolutely blind. At 10 a.m. on June 6, Hingston ami porters arrived at camp three to relieve, and if possible), escort me down. I was anxious to descend, as my presence at camp four could onlv be an embarrassment to Odell and . Hazard, who lias now takon over the place of Irving in the role of supporters. Hingstoiii, being unable at the moment to perform the miracle of restoring my sight, performed, with the help of Hazard and two porters, another mirae'e. Tho route to north col is admittedly an Alpine climb. Thev shepherded me down some 1500 feet “of sheer ice and snow placing my every footstep, leading mo by the band and supporting me with ropes, fixed and unfixed, with complete security.

Hazard turned back after roping me from the top of the chimney to the bottom and Hingston saw me the rest of the way into camp three. Hingston is ii famous goer on a hillside and has limited experience of snow and ice conditions in the Pamirs, but lie has never done any; Alpine dumbing, so I think it must be admitted that his performance was -reniarkablei and it was certainly one I shall not forget in a hurry. MALLORY AND IRVINE. With deepest regret I add. these few lines, containing the above despatch. Mallory and Irvine perished oil the mountain, beyond all doubt. They were last seen by Ordeil from camp six going strong for the top. I have not yet seen Odell, but estimate this was about. 11 o’clock in the morning of the Bth, and. that- the point reached at that timet ' by the climbers was about 28.000 feet, ' Nothing had been seen or heard of them since. Odell returned to camp four that night and until about noon on June 9, the absence of news occasioned the only anxiety, ns the climbers might well have passed the night in camps five and six.

» At /Upon on June. 9, Odell and two porters started from camp four and spent the night at camp five. About 1 p.m. on June 10 Odell reached camp six, whence he signalled that there 'was no sign, of the missing men.

Camps 5 and' 6 were under continuous observation from Hazard from camp 4. These camps are provided with magnesium flares for distress signal and there was no doubt that the -■limbers did not return to, them. Thus puts any possibility of .their survival out of the question, for no one could spend two nights on the mountain under existing conditions, except in one- or other of the two high camps, and live. The only likely explanation of tihe tragedy is that there were mountaineering accidents unconnected with questions of weather or the use of oxygen. This is borne out by our own observations, four days previously, of the nature of the ground they were crossing when last seen. I remained at camp 3 directing operations bv messenger and watching for signals through a, telescope until 4.30 in the afternoon of June 10, by which time ! saw Odell .reach camp four in time to bo of any help, and beyond a letter, of instructions and. the use of. a system of signals 1 had to give the supporting party in camp 4 a free hand. They appeal'd to have done all that was humanly possible. I should add that I, myself, forbade any reconnaissance beyond camp 6, as the weather was extremely threatening, and conditions on the mountain appeared to be as bad as they could he, and I had to consider the lives of the two British and three Himalayan members of the expedition who were still at, or above, camp 4. I