ALPINE CLIMBING

Otago Witness, Issue 4042, 1 September 1931, Page 7

ALPINE CLIMBING

AN INTERESTING LECTURE. An interesting lecture on “ Rock, Snow, and Ice Craft ” was given by Mr H. F. * Wright on Wednesday evening before a large attendance of members of the Otago section of the New Zealand Alpine Club m the University Club Rooms. The lecturer, who resides in Auckland, is an experienced climber, and the information he imparted should prove very beneficial to the local climbers. Mr Wright has been a member of the English Alpine Club since 1920 and a member of the committee of the New Zealand Club since 1914. He was a former resident of Dunedin. He is a recognised authority on mountaineering, having done a great deal of exploration work in the mountains of Otago, particularly in the Dart Valley. He was a member of one of the early parties to elimb Mount Cook. Mr E. Miller, chairman of the Otago section of the New Zealand Alpine Club, presided. He extended a. hearty welcome to Mr Wright on behalf of the members. Mr Miller then gave details of the pro posed training camp to be established for members of the club in the Rees Valley during the coming summer. Mr Wright congratulated the members of the Otago section of the New Zea land Alpine Club in establishing a branch in Otago. From the character of the members, their youth, and what they had already accomplished, he was certain the Dunedin section would . become the strongest climbing chib in the Dominion. They had a wonderful country within one day’s striking distance of Dunedin, and there were hundreds of peaks still unconquered. Some of these peaks from an altitude point of view could be regarded as secondary, but as all of them could be tackled from a very low level they provided climbs of the best order. Mr Wright said that the art of rock climbing took longer to acquire than ordinary ice climbing. Rocks were of all kinds of formation and strata. The hard sandstone variety of rock afforded the best sport, as it was always in a better condition, and was not so disintegrated as that more frequently met with in the schistose varieties. In selecting a route on a rock climb, one should be selected with the rocks leaning away from the climbers. Rock climbing brought into play nearly all the muscles of the body, especially at times when the back, knees, and arms were brought into use. The legs, being many times stronger than the arms, should be relied on for most of the advance. A good rock climber moved forward slowly, quietly, and deliberately, and instinctively selected the most suitable holes. He never jumped or sprang to get a grip just beyond his reach. When a hold had to be found beyond the reach of the leader it was better to bring up the second 'man, who would climb to the leader’s shoulders to secure a better grip. Once.the leader was. up and in a secure place there should be no difficulty for the rest of the party to gain their objective. A hold should always be tested before climbers trusted their weight on it. Mr Wright then described the cheval ridge of Malte Brun, Mount Cook, from the Hooker, the chimney on David's Dome from Harper’s Saddle, and cracks on the north face of Earuslaw. He mentioned Mount Darwin as a peak that was in a very bad state. In referring to ice work, Mr Wright said that steep, hard blue ice slopes called for a strain on the. nerves of most climbers, especially for those following the leader. Such climbing, however, only needed the ability to stand steady in the steps. Ice steps must be well cut, with the lean inwards, and very deep handholds should also be cut. When descending an ice slope great care should be exercised to come down firmly with the weight of the body on the heels. In referring to the crossing of ice bridges and courloirs, the lecturer said care should be .; exercised 'when cornices were met. He the method of side-stepping on '■’difficult snow ridges and pigeon-holing on snow courloirs] In regard to snow craft proper, Mr Wright said it took a longer time and greater experience to gain an accurate knowledge as to when it was safe to cross snow slopes. Climbers should always stick to the arete if possible. If forced to cross a snow slope they should do it diagonally, and as far up the slope as possible. The lecturer said they al! knew that Mount Egmont produced more disasters than all the rest of New Zealand Alps put together. This was accounted for by the ease in which the mountain could be approached from the high huts in all directions. A large number of young climbers attempted to scale Mount Egmont who bad- no experience, of snow conditions. When on the mountain such climbers usually started small avalanches or struck an ice patch, and they were soon in difficulties. A thorough knowledge of snow conditions on such a peak as Mount Egmont was absolutely-essen-tial.

Mr Wright also dealt with many other aspects of climbing, and described the manner in which the rope should be used when climbing over the face of rock fissures, and how to anchor on the snow. He also referred to the modern climbers' outfit as being the last word in efficiency. He mentioned the equipment carried by Balmat and Sansarre on their first historic climb on Mount Blanc. This equipment consisted of ropes, axes of the ordinary wood-cutting kind, poles, and ladders. The strangest part of the equipment consisted of iron hooks attached to the arms of the climbers. A number of lantern slides were shown, all of which were interesting and helped to illustrate the various points Mr Wright referred to in the course of his lecture. A hearty vote of thanks was accorded Mr Wright at the conclusion of the lecture.