IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 4041, 25 August 1931, Page 58

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By Marguerite.

In all the realm of dress there is no subject in which one feels more interest than in that of millinery. At the moment only email closfc-fitting hats are in favour—berets, turbans, and small caps worn far back. They may be of felt, ribbon, braid, or some decorative straw. To wear with a suit choose a small hat with a jaunty rolled-back brim, and to make it extra smart have it finished at the back or on one side with a knot of self straw or felt, or a couple of tiny goose feathers dyed brightly for the sake of colour.

Jewelled clips, daggers, and brooches are not seen on hats now, but a real jewel, finely- set, may be worn clipped to the side which falls over the ear, so that it appears to be an earring. On felt hats with small brims very dainty bands of kid. leather, and plain cloth, cut in strips and plaited, are pretty touches of trimming. Kid flowers in various soft shades are set closely together to form a wreath-like band. Narrow stitched bands of bright-coloured kid with little buckles are also effective; but whatever the trimming touch, it must be kept close and flat. Narrow bindings of varnished ribbon may trim a tricorne, and a little bow of the varnished ribbon set on the brim may relieve its flatness.

The beret, bonnet, tricorne, and bicorne have been transformed. The little bonnet is now made of ribbon straw, satin, and felt worked into lilies by decorative openwork stitching. The border about the brow may be ornamental in curves, scallops, and finely pointed edgings, over the whole being a small silk-edged veil. Eye veils continue to put up a determined bid for favour. Paris sponsors the very fine veil that lies on the brow, keeps the hair flawlessly tidy, and helps to hide wrinkled foreheads. A wisp of fine net across the brow is immensely attractive for youth as well as the older woman.

Most of the hats for early spring wear are black. For the most part hats seem to be chosen to match one's outfit. Therefore it is not surprising to see a large number of black models. Brown is also seen, but black and white are very much to the fore. Two colours are also noticed. A black straw hat I saw was finished with a turquoise blue straw front to match the black and turquoise-trimmed frock it was to accompany. The style lies in decorative handwork.

There is certainly a new “line” in millinery. Many models have width cleverly introduced at the sides.' Hats in black and white straw or grosgrain are popular. One, a beret in creamcoloured crochet straw, I saw was folded to give width at the sides, where it was held down with a knot of cirecl white feathers tipped with black. The glossyblack rough straw turban will be much favoured, as well as rough straw Watteau brims and quaint poke bonnets and black rough straw sailor hats. Straw is to be very fashionable, and every variety is employed. from the coarse chip to fine crinoline and beautifully ironed baku and straw lace for garden party and picturesque hats. But whatever the straw or the trimming (feathers and flowers and bows used fancifully), hats follow one general nde: the hairline must show. 'They may be worn back on the head, or. if tney’re Watteau style, oq the top of the head, or tilted sideways or upwards with an audacious tilt, but tip they must if you want to be in the mode. Brims sweep sharply from the face or half-veil the profile. Designers, not content with the “off the forehead” idea, are now presenting models to be worn “ off one side of the head ’’ as well. To give your new ensemble just the right dash of chic—lady, tilt your hat.

This illustrates a smart daytime frock combining two colours. (Contrast in your spring frock adds ~to chic. Black and green, black and opal yellow, brown and green, and brown and deep coral pink are colours that blend with excellent effect.) Note the gored skirt .with the pointed outline higher on the hips. The sleeves

show a fitted cuff finished with a close row of buttons. Colours go by- twos and threes, sometimes even more. It just depends on what you choose, for you may combine three shades of one colour or three contrasting colours, or two contrasting colours or a neutral colour with a bright colour, or the contrasting colour may be for the accessories.

This illustrates a becoming frock of skipper blue wool crepe, the skirt being pleated at the sides and flared from, below the knees. Not the pretty cross-over, double-breasted bodice, fastened with rhinestone buttons. The vestee and cuffs

are of white batiste, the cuffs being bordered with rows of frilling or narrow Valenciennes lace, fashion’s newest feminine touch. Rows of Valenciennes lace will decorate many summer frocks and blouses.

For the newest buttonhole little wee flowers of Valenciennes lace, so crisp and dainty, made of the narrowest of white or cream lace, are bunched in a cluster on the end of millinery stalks. To decorate a plain dark-colour satin frock that has a low round neckline, cut on the cross from double net a deep collar about two inches wide. Cut it out on paper first so that it will fit nicely over the shoulders. Continue the line of the “ U shaped neckline to above the waistline, front and back, of bodice; cover the net with three or four close, flat, gathered rows of deep cream Valenciennes lace; attach with a few stitches to the neckline of the frock at the shoulders andf"to keep it in position, at the lower edge front and back. Decorate the lower sleeves similarly. This is smart for the older woman’s frock for formal wear. A dull amber satin frock is suggested.

Tailor-made suits and coat-frocks are to take a prominent place in fashion’s parade, the coat and skirt being in many cases different material and contrasting colour. The combining of materials will also be seen in coat-frocks —checked or plaid for skirt with plain cloth or velvet for the, bodice. You can do very happy contrasts with a brown suit if you choose beige, pale yellow, or coral pink for your blouse. A pastel Broderie Anglais® blouse would be the last word in chic.

The black paiiamalaque hat is important for spring and summer wear. This lovely hat has the brim raised at one side and a gardenia placed close to the face. The dented brim is shown ornamented with a close spray of gardenias. A narrow black satin ribbon encircles the

crown. The brown baku hat shows folded width at the side and the vogue for a single jewel—-a rose quartz ornament placed under the brim and a larger one on the outside. These are two extremely flattering hats to accompany- the black and brown frocks.

For the small hat a wealth of orderly flowers across the back is a charming trimming or close to the face with the upturned brim. Some are placed, Spanish fashion, just over the ear. On a large garden-party hat it is usual to place a garland of flowers on a narrow bandeau under the brim across the forehead to give the hat the right tilt. There are also for youthful wearers feather-weight velvet caps, tightly- fitting and rucked all over, and finished with a spray- of gly-cerined flowers with pearl centres, placed flatly at the back close to the neck. These quaint picturesque little caps are worn far back, showing the waved, soft hair in front and soft curls peeping out at the back. Crochet straw turbans with

a plaited band of two colours all round) the edge are so new that they are giving the milliners something to think about. * ¥ ¥ Here are two youthful hats. The top sketch shows a straw in the new basquett® weave for sport and street wear. ■ Satiri ribbon encircles the crown, and is caught at the side with a buckle. Patent leather

may be used in place of ribbon. The bottom sketch is of fine black straw, trimmed with black and turquoise velvet ribbon showing the new quaint pendant bow. The pendant bow is a charming new idea.