IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 4039, 11 August 1931, Page 58

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By Marguerite. When wake the violets, Winter dies; When sprout the elm buds. Spring Is near; When lilacs blossom. Summer cries, " Bud, little roses ! Spring is here! ” —P. W. Holmes. Plain and figured light-weight woollen materials and plain and printed silks will make up the season’s dresses. The silks include many printed crepe de chines and chiffons and crepe marocains, as well as a few printed satins and crepe satins. Plain materials in various delicate summer colours are as numerous as figured

materials, and the two are frequently combined with great success. The patterns of the crepe de chine are mostly small, some being flowery and bright on dark backgrounds, and take the form of narcissi, convolulus, and cornflowers. Spots and discs are tightly grouped together on dark grounds and some small dark stars on light grounds. Marquisette and georgette show the same delicate and gay patterns. Some silks resemble the woollens in colour and pattern, and both suggest what is bright and simple. There is crepe de chine with a small printed design of pinhead dots, flower heads, and noughts and crosses. Everything is small and bright in silks, as in wools, and small tweed patterns as well as spots of different sizes are shown. Shantung crepe ig similarly printed. Surah has an interwoven pattern which is all the more regular. Shantung will be much favoured. The new crepe kind should be popular, as it will wear well and does not crease easily. The artificial silks are very soft, supple, and beautiful. A new improvement in the manufacture of artificial silk materials renders them less liable to crushing and creasing. Their easily creasing habits have always been one of the drawbacks of artificial silks, but this is now overcome by new processes in the weaving and finishing. Filmy chiffons show large flowing patterns, decorative and rich. A pattern may be irregularly coloured. A satin stripe is impressed on some flowered chiffons and crepe marocain. Crepe lama is heavier than crepe de chine, with printed patterns that are usually checks, stripes, or stiff small signs. The weight of these crepes will make them hang well. Colours are to be bright or a dark colour trimmed with something gay — black with a touch of pink, black with red, beige, and green, and brown with beige, green, and burnt orange. Presentday fashions will give the dressmakers an opportunity of displaying their skill with colour combinations as new as the season itself !

This illustrates a chic spring daytime frock of navy blue wool crepe combined with plaid silk. The skirt is mounted to a yoke and is slim-fitting to below the knees. Note the bodice, cut away on one side to show the plaid silk. A long roll collar of plaid crosses well over to the side. From underneath is attached a flowing jabot, kept in position with the tailored belt, which fastens with two brass buttons.. There are short Magyar

sleeves and long tight-fitting cuffs of the plaid silk. A short jacket will be of the navy crepe lined with the plaid silk and trimmed with brass buttons. Linings match costumes, and when a costume consists of two materials, one plain and the other figured, the lining corresponds. A checked or diagonally striped coat is lined with a plain colour when the drees is plain and is trimmed with the check or diagonal stripe.

Sleeves are important. The bouffant effect is often featured about the elbow over a tight wrist, while a bit of flounce is also attached here and there. Threequarter sleeves are also noted. Dolman sleeves are once again seen on both frocks and coats. The modern form is most attractive, especially when made in supple fabrics, for it hangs in pretty folds from elbow almost to wrist, where it is fitting and is finished by a little turn-up cuff. In some frocks the sleeve is lain in a wrapped seam over sides of both front and back, the wrap being decorated by a line of tiny buttons or several rows of machine stitching. Cuffs on tight-fitting sleeves are a notable feature. Some are of circular cut, and are set on just above or below the elbow. Those at the wrists are sometimes pointed or in wide gauntlet shape reaching almost to the elbow. The long tight-fitting mitten sleeve with points over the back of the hand and those buttoned from wrist to elbow are much favoured, some being slightly rucked. Later on short capelet and short Magyar sleeves will be worn. Sleeves may be long, three-quarter, or short, decorated or plain. ¥ ¥ ¥ This illustrates an attractive daytime frock in black wool crepe combined with blue, black, and white printed silk. The skirt is a wrap-over style mock-fastened

with small crystal buttons. Note the youthfgul bolero and graceful cape collar dipping on one side and breaking the

straight hemline. The side sash adds to its charm, and is in silk crepe in a matching tone of blue to the printed silk.

Many frocks in the new spring models show wrapped-over fronts on both bodice and skirt. The effect is very smart when there is a diagonally shaped yoke to the skirt, buttoned at the left side, and wrapped over with the right front slightly flared and sloped up over a plain left front. Bodices with wrapped fronts often show a large draped collar on the right side which is continued in a plain collar or scarf end on the left of the “ V ’’- shaped neck. Other wrapped fronts without the yoke have a row of buttons and simulated holes about an inch from the edge of the right side that wraps well over towards the left. And the length of skirts. ? They are very little longer. Those designed for sports and morning wear are shin length. Afternoon dresses are well above the ankles. Skirts fall straight to- below the knees, with pleats, fold-overs, or seaming to shape them. Centre front pleats are fashionable, some from a deep pointed yoke. AH skirts have tight-fitting hips. The main point is the straight, slim outline to the knees.

This illustrates a smart spring frock, a tomato red print on a dark ground crepe with plain crepe trimming and a white crepe vest and tiny black or dark red buttons. Note the tight cuffs of the plain crepe under loose-fitting threequarter sleeves. The little basque is cut to fall with slight fullness. The skirt has a centre front flare. The waistline

in these illustrations is moderately high. Waistlines, within reason, are movable. Designers have decided that the waist should be in the place that best suits the wearer. Narrow tailored belts, patent leather belts, and side sashes are shown. Since all patterns on wool and silk are small, the sprirfg costumes look neat and youthful and becoming to most women.

“ They're wearin’ Scotland’s classic woollen plaids!” This illustrates a style of suit which is much favoured—a colourful pleated tartan skirt, a gay

matching scarf, and a trim tailored coat of plain woollen fabric in one of the plaid colours—the smartest thing imaginable worn with a beret or a chic turban. .

At the moment, while winds are cold, frocks and suits of fine tweed, jersey, and other woollens of similar kind are of more general interest than those of lighter fabric. Frocks _ made in these woollens are very becoming and youthful-

looking with their straight slim lines. The skirts have pointed or round yokes and are circularly cut or pleated in front. Bodices pouch very slightly above a buckled belt, and with most there is a natty little jacket with or without sleeves. Woollens for such frocks are shown in most attractive shades of blues, greens, beiges, and reds, often with flecks of 'White or a contrasting colour.