IN FASHION’S REALM.
UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.
By Marguerite.
(Special for the Otago Witness.)
An old-fashioned vogue has been revived for evening wear—that of the close, fitting cap.. All sorts of cap-wigs are designed—some amusing, others so very pretty that they add to the general feminine effect of the evening mode. The cleverly shaped foundation is moulded to the head, and completely covers the real hair beneath. Round the face it is cut like waves of hair, fits over the ears, and is held closely in position by a strip of elastic at the back of the neck. Gold ribbon, cord, gold and silver braid, and chenille in a variety of colours are used a great deal. The strands are arranged in close and even waves, ana often finished witK a row of flat curls at the back. One made of gold cord had coils piled on the top, from where the curls fell to the neck. The effect of this bizarre “ hair ” is striking, but becoming to a pretty woman with lovely colouring. Feathers and flower petals (the latter of shaded ribbon or velvet) are also worn. The foundation with iridescent sequins or coloured jewels massed all over the cap is also much favoured, and the average woman will be able to fashion this style of cap at no great extravagance. The “ hair effect,” of course, requires an experienced hairworker, as the finely plaited strands and curls are too intricate for an amateur. The caps are very light and comfortable to wear, so : women who are growing their hair and are dissatisfied with their appearance about the head might with advantage adopt the cap-wig inode with evening toilettes, especially if their hair is bobbed or shingled and they are wearing a feminine ankle-length frock. It is one of the new ideas fashion has created to give a more correct effect to the head with the formal evening frock.
The evening wraps for summer wear are hip length—little short coats and capes. Capes of all sorts are seen, and many coats are finished with capes, some of which are novel in cut. divided up the centre, and having petal effects. The
short coats are fitted to the waistline and flared below, while trimming is provided by embroideries, jewelled embroidery, and fur—ermine, sable, fox, and mink. Even wraps of transparent material are trimmed with fur. Materials are satin lame, georgette, and velvet. White velvet coats are extremely smart, and beigevelvet is popular trimmed with ermine or white fox, the high collars and the sleeves being banded with the fur, or the sleeves being sewn up and fitted from thq wrist to the elbow. Sometimes the fur trims the flared lower border of the wrap to add to the luxurious effect. Some of these lovely white wraps are carried out in moire and silver lame. The white, or beige wrap is a practical investment for the average woman, as such a wrap may form a part of one, two, or even three evening ensembles. Oyster lame lined with ivory satin also looks very effective. Jackets of gold or silver sequins are also attractive, most of these being niade sleeveless, with wide ghoulder yokes, to which is. attached a scarf that may be smartly draped in many ways.
This illustrates’’ a summer evening ensemble of rose beige chiffon • and match-
Ing colour transparent 'velvet wrap trimmed with beige ermine or golden fluffy fur of the imitation kind. The hiplength coat is fitted to the waistline. The standing collar may be made higher at the back if desired, some of them even covering the entire back of the head. It is a matter for individual preference. The frock is of even ankle length all
round, with a skirt of two tiers. The bodice is finished in front with four beaded ruffled flowers, such jewelled designs on evening frocks being the latest fashion. Rose pink, brown, and blue beads will be used for the flower centres, and the ruffled petals merely touched with the beads. If blue chiffon, is chosen for the frock a white velvet coat would be the last word in chic.
The design illustrated shows the vogue for the short wrap and the long-skirted frock. Nothing looks better,- and is smart on almost any figure. For the ensemble idea the jacket may be lined with . the same accompanying dress material. Short lace jackets are flattering for outdoor afternoon funptions. Some are cut with amusing little basques and flared hems, giving the peplum effect. Some suggestions are /beige lace over a brown chiffon frock, eyelet embroidered
organdie over a plain ordandie frock for youth, and a short cut-away coat of soft black satin with flared basque at back, hand-embroidered in lovely colourings, worn over a printed black chiffon frock showing the same colourings in the print.
This illustrates a satin evening wrap. The soft satin wrap makes an ideal evening or afternoon coat. Black, pink, and beige satin are the colours mostly chosen, though I have seen a number of sapphire blue worn over blue, white, and black frocks. The design may be copied in black transparent'velvet. The full circular tier is short in front, and dips grace-
fully at the back. The shoulder capelet follows the same flowing lines. A handmade flower of green satin is placed on one shoulder, the shoulder flower on the satin or velvet wrap being a new note. For a charming evening ensemble I suggest a wrap of wild rose pink satin or velvet and a frock of matching pink lace or chiffon.
I recently saw a charming evening frock. suitable for elaborate afternoon functions. It was of chiffon with a black background, and a design of large white poppies with red centres. A new note was the cut-out white poppies appliqued on top of the printed ones from the knees to the ankles of the wide skirt, which graduated from the front to the back Coral bracelet and necklace and Ion" black gloves give a smart finish.
For dressy afternoon use the latest fashion note is stencilled parasols. I saw a brave galleon with the wind in its sails stencilled on a dark blue silk sunshade. Another of leaf green silk had a garland of many-coloured stencilled flowers, while a pink silk sunshade showed a design of sweet peas stencilled with careless charm. The vogue for dot patterns will provide many simple designs for the
woman who stencils. A bag could smartly match the sunshade.
This illustrates a graceful evening gown of black chiffon with an effective design in white, yellow, and red colouring. The sash is of black taffeta, and the cape collar is softly box-pleated. The skirt is ankle length, and from the waistline to above the knees has three flared flounces
to give, feminine charm. Another suggestion is a pretty shade of blue or grepn lace for the frock and a matching taffeta sash. Many cape collars are of lace in cream or ecru colour over sheer black. Patou shows black chiffon with a rose cape.
This illustrates a street frock of slate blue flat crepe. The cape is detachable, and the skirt and blouse are separate. So the clever modern woman would be wise to have a satin blouse included in the outfit, or a Swiss dot muslin, which is dainty and summery. The skirt is of
moderate length, and a hip yoke is cut to form a front panel. The collar and cuffs are of white pique, very fresh and crisp. On another day you may wear the dress without the cape, while a soft pastel-colour georgette collar and cuffs make the frock dressy and feminine.
The designers are to be congratulated on the ingenuity of their models. With a change of accessories real variety is achieved, and every simple frock has its matching capelet, short jacket, or bolero. They not only give the extra warmth required for present wear, but every woman knows how smart is a jaunty cape or a saucy bolero, which need not be of the tailored type. A sleeveless frock with a matching short jacket is what smart women wear.
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Bibliographic details
Otago Witness, Issue 3995, 7 October 1930, Page 59
Word Count
1,353IN FASHION’S REALM. Otago Witness, Issue 3995, 7 October 1930, Page 59
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