THE GARDEN

Otago Witness, Issue 3994, 30 September 1930, Page 11

THE GARDEN

ffiiQRK FOR THE NOTES BY

D.TANNOCK, F.R.H.S.

THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY. Tuberous begonias whether intended for growing in pots or in the flower garden should now be brought into the greenhouse, watered well and started into growth in the soil in which they were packed during the winter. This will be very dry, and it will require several waterings to get it sufficiently , moist. When growth commences, if there are too many shoots coming from any rarities which we desire to increase a few can be taken off close to the tuber, and put in as cuttings in sandy soil, and plunged in bottom heat. Large tubers can also be cut up provided each piece has a shoot, and the stock increased in this way. Seedlings of begonias which were grown from seed sown in early spring should now be sufficiently large to handle, and they can be pricked out into boxes of light rich soil and placed in the warm house. Seedlings if grown or steadily will make nice plants in five or six inch, pots and flower in the autumn when those grown from tubers are beginning to go off. Continue to prick out seedlings of the various kinds of bedding plants and bring in the dahlias with a view to starting them into growth. Like the begonias they will require a lot of water at first, but once the soil is saturated a light spraying overhead twice a day will be all they require until they are broken upPut in cuttings of hydrangea, and get in the last of the chrysanthemum cuttings as soon as possible. A small sowing of hardy annuals made now in boxes will provide plants for filling in banks in the mixed or herbaceous border where bulbs have been growing. They can be* planted out among the ripening foliage of the bulbs. THE FLOWER GARDEN.

Spring flowers are coming on rapidly and the flower garden is quite gay with the various kinds of daffodils, wallflowers, primrose, polyanthus, violas and pansies, while the rock garden is bright with the different varieties of aubretia, alyssum and arabis. Primula Wanda is very attractive in a shady part of the rock garden at present. It is a large, crimson-purple primrose with a yellow eye, very hardy and free flowering. Primuls denticulata from the Himalayas is very attractive with its globular heads of lilac coloured flowers. There is also a white variety. Primula capitata is also a Himalayan species with globular heads of rich violet-coloured flowers. The rock garden requires a considerable amount of attention just now, weeding has to be done regularly, all old foliage and dead leaves which would shelter slugs have to be cleaned off, and lime dusted under the spreading matlike plants to destroy slugs, which hide under the foliage during the day and crawl out to eat the buds and flowers at night. It is still rather too early to plant out the main 'bedding plants, but such hardy kinds as antirrhinums, and nemesia if properly hardened off can be put out in warm, sunny positions. Continue to sow down lawns whenever weather conditions are favourable and sprinkle poison grain over the surface to keep the small birds busy until the seed germinates. This is the best time to sow down and repair lawns, the seed germinates quickly and in a few weeks it is ready for the mower. THE VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GARDEN. This is a busy time in the vegetable garden, and all but the tender kinds can be sown and planted now. Lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower which were raised inside, and afterwards hardened off can be planted now and seed of celery, leeks, cauliflower, and cabbage can be sown to provide plants for putting out later on. Potatoes which have been sprouted in boxes can be planted out now, and the most satisfactory way’ is to break up the soil with a fork and rake, and then plant with a trowel. It may be necessary to spread some straw •or place some scrubby branches over them to protect them from frost for a week or two. The spraying of fruit trees should be completed before growth is too far advanced, and the soil among bush fruits should be forked or hoed to destroy seedling weeds and bring it into a good state of cultivation. Fruit trees may still be grafted.

BEAN CROPS. The broad bean, Faba vulgaris, ' a native of the East, and has been in cultivation from the earliest ages. It is a perfectly hardy plant, and by making a sowing in the autumn and others at intervals from early spring, supplies can be maintained for the greater part of the year. This cop is not particular as to soil or situation, but does best during summer and autumn in a reasonably , heavy loam and in early spring on a sandy loam. Like all members of this ' family it likes lime and a good dressing, of farmyard manure is appreciated. It is usual to sow the broad beans at intervals among the more dwarf .vegetables, or along the sides of the paths to provide shelter for the more delicate crops. After breaking up the soil with the fork it is levelled with the rake, and the seeds can be put in with a blunt' ■dibber in a double row allowing nine inches between the row’s and five to six inches between the seeds in the row’s.

Another method of sowing is to take out a broad drill with the spade about two inches deep, and then to plant the seeds along the outside of the drill at from five to six inches apart. A good dusting of superphosphate at the rate of Ijoz to the yard of row* at seed sowing, and occasional dressings of lime afterwards will assist growth and keep away slugs. The after cultivation of broad beans is simple, the soil on either side of the rows is cultivated with the scuffle hoe, and drawn up slightly to assist to support the stems. In windy and exposed places it will be necessary to provide some support by fixing stout stakes at about six feet apart along each side of the row and stretching along one or more strands of binder twine. When the plants have formed a reasonable number of clusters of flowers the tips of the stems are pinched out. This removes the bean aphis and concentrates- the energies of the plant in the pods which are left. There are two types of beans, the long pod and broad Windsor. The former produces the heaviest crop, but the latter has the best flavour.

Dwarf kidney or french beans, Phaseolus vulgaris, is a native of Soutn America, ’.nd consequently more frost tender than the broad bean. The kidney beans can’t stand cold winds, or a cold wet soil, and consequently sowing has to be delayed until the weather is more settled and warmer at nights, and the middle of October is soon enough for sowing in the open. If early crops are desired it will be better to sow in pots or boxes and bring on like half-hardy annuals, planting out the seedlings in a warm sheltered sunny position when all danger of frost is past. Kidney beans like a lighter soil than broad beans, they must have good drainage, and a liberal dressing of farmyard manure or compost heap, with lime, of course, and a dressing of basic super, at the time of seed sowing or shortly after. After preparing the soil as described for broad beans, drills are drawn with the hoe about two inches deep. The seeds are sown about three inches apart, and later on if they all come up are thinned out to from six to eight inches. After cultivation is simply hoeing and earthing up the soil a little, but this crop must be watered during dry weather and ‘an application of liquid manure occasionally will maintain the growth and bearing. The pods should be picked regularly as they develop, and if not required for immediate use they can be cut up and salted down in jars for winter use. Canadian Wonder is still one of the best varieties, but Suttons Perfection, the Prince, and Magnum Bonum are also good.

There is a climbing french bean which requires similar treatment to the dwarf kind, except that it requires more room and stakes from 4ft to sft high. They also crop for a longer period, and have been known to provide regular pickings for three months. Butter beans require similar treatment to the french kinds. They may not be so productive and are not quite so hardy, but they provide another variety. Golden Waxpod is a good variety. Scarlet runner bean, Phaseolus multiflorus, is also a native of South America and also frost tender, but when grown on a wall or fence where it can be protected from the cold winds will commence to fruit earlier than the dwarf kinds. Scarlet runners are perennials, and will come up and provide an early crop if left in the ground for a second year, but are usually treated as annuals and grown from seed every season. When grown from seed they produce much heavier crops and the plants continue to bear for a longer period. Runners are so ornamental that they are frequently grown to cover up ugly walls or fences or trained over summer houses, where they not only provide a beautiful feature but they also yield large quantities of food. Soil for runners should be rich and deeply cultivated, and at no time during their growths should they be allowed to suffer from lack of moisture. A mulching with farmyard manure i r compost heap will help to keep their roots cool and moist, and occasional applications of liquid manure will assist growth. The main crop of runners is usually sown in a double row like broad beans, allowing about eight inches between the rows and from four to six inches between the plants. Stakes from 6ft to Bft should be provided, and these should be inserted firmly and tied together at the top. To induce early cropping the stems are frequently stopped at from sft to 6ft, when they will produce fine, large trusses of bloom from top to bottom. They can also be cultivated without stakes by pinching out the tips of the stems at about 3ft, and continuing to pinch out the growing points from time to time. This causes them to sprawl over the ground, keeping it cool during the summer, a condition suitable for continous cropping. Prizewinner, Ne Plus Ultra, Girtford Giant Scarlet, and Champion Scarlet are good varieties.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. E. J. Caversham.—l am afraid you have pruned your gooseberries too hard They bear fruit mainly on the young

well-ripened shoots and if the branches are as you describe you would cut away the best wood. If they are not satisfactory this year, shorten them back as soon as you pick the fruit “ green,” and bring up some young wood from the centre. You can spray your olearia hedge with the mixture mentioned, but you must dilute it. Deciduous apple trees can stand a stronger mixture than an evergreen olearia. R. L., Palmerston.—l am afraid I cannot recommend any spray for the grub which attacks the raspberry fruits. As a rule they are not bad on properly thinned and trained plants. “Recreation,” Roxburgh.—lt is better to put down a grass tennis court perfectly level. An average tennis court requires 421 b of grass seed and this could consist of 201 b evergreen ryegrass, 111 b crested dogstail, and 111 b Chewing’s fescue. Sow now. It should be fit for play 1 after Christmas. First level roughly and roll or tramp again leved with pegs at intervals of 10 feet. Screen soil for covering, sow seed, and spread about an inch on top, making it perfectly level with a straight edge and wires. After grass is well up give a dressing with blood and bone manure lewt, and later on a dusting with sulphate of ammonia 201 b. Apply the sulphate in two dressings mixed with an equal quantity of sand with an interval of a fortnight.