IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3912, 5 March 1929, Page 64

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By Marguerite

(Special for the Otago Witness.) The autumn and winter give us outdoor sports different from the summer ones, but equally enjoyable. For the energetic girl keen on outdoor games there are hockey, basket ball, and, of course golf. For the players as well as for the spectators there is always special apparel. England sets the fashion for sports clothes for both men and women, and this year the materials are a revelation of British manufacturing art. Homespun tweeds, woollen fabrics, jersey velour, and velvet show a range of design and fabric probably unsurpassed in the world. Sports clothes show the feminine trend, and are a little less man like, and velvet is used for some suits intended for golf. Corduroy velvet has been revived, but the new corduroy has inch-wide stripes in place of the narrow ones of old, for the “ raised surface ” group of fabrics is to be specially popular. There is a world of smartness in these supple shining weaves when designed in sports style. The new woollens do not stretch out of shape. 'They have a certain elasticity, and go back into shape quite naturally when they are taken off and put, away. Some of them are reversible. They are so woven that they have a patterned design on one side and a plain colour of one of the colours in the pattern on the other side. When coats are carried out in these materials they have the linings all ready made. These woollen materials are one of the minor surprises of the manufacturers. The colours for .sport and street are shades of navy, tan, royal, silver, saxe, almond, fawn, green, and cherry, with black, too, which is always in good taste. Pelican skin, Paris says, will be the most popular trimming for the ensemble, as well as groups of fine pipings and contrasts —panels and vests in brighter tonings. The ingenue can make never-ending experiments with collars and cuffs in silk pique, beige lawn, and spotted net/ There are Eton collars with frilled edges, and white organdie collars, scarlet bound, following the lines of the uneven “V” neck line so that the collar opening is on one side. Two-way cuffs, or, for those who can afford them, real lace collars and cuffs, are a hand.some finish to any of the more elaborate blouses. Jumper suits with wide woven stripes round the hips seem to have been created specially for youthful figures. Striped border suitlengths can be bought in all wool, silk and wool, or a mixture. Grey and tan look smart with royal or red stripes, the collar being finished with tie-ends of both colours. Hand - knitted wool jumpers with amusing designs worked in look delightful worn over pleated white skirts.

This illustrates a very smart coat-frock for street wear or. for a sports spectator. Coat-frocks are in the front row of fashion. They are practical and becoming and somewhat different from the usual three-piece ensemble or the suit. The model is in a combination of cloth and velvet, made easy-fitting. The long roll collar finishes with a banding of velvet, and is ornamented at the waist with two large natural coloured gardenias,

which strike a rich note against the royal blue cloth and velvet pleated jabot

at the side of the skirt. The square vest is of satin. All the new modes for street wear are very colourful, so will add brightness on dull, cold days.

Necklets will play an important part this season with tailored suits and street frocks like the one illustrated. The stone marten will, of course, hold pride of place with sable, but those beautifully long-haired Arctic foxes in rich autumn tones and in becoming mushroom shades will run the expensive little furs a very close second. Muffs, too, will probably return. to favour. Already numbers of these attractive little hand coverings are being shown in the furriers’ to accompany the necklets, and will take the place of handbags among many of nur well-dressed women at the fashionable functions for early autumn.

Here is a velvet sports jacket. The fashion of wearing a dark velvet or kasha sports jacket has been fashionable abroad, and has made its appearance here. The model is in Lomond blue, bound round the edges with a darker blue silk braid; One button fastens below tapering revers. Note the smartshaped sleeves at the wrist. These coats

will be worn over all the sleeveless sports frocks. The same little coats can be made to do duty for all occasions, in heavy silk (figured and plaifi), soft;

woolly cloth, brocade, chiffon, and ring velvet, according to the purpose for which they are needed, but for sports wear velvet is the vogue.

_ A smart and decorative appearance is given to tweed coats by contrasting pipings or . inlay bands and circles of the material. The tweeds of small patterned designs look best, and particularly smart when attended by a belt of patent leather in a rather wide size. Patent leather trimmings can be made to match if fancied. A matching tweed hat for country wear, worn with an emerald scarf, is very smart. Diamonds now sparkle from felt hats, and emeralds have made their debut with tweeds. An emerald brooch is worn on the right side of the coat lapel.

Very fascinating scarves of heavyweight crepe de chine have been prepared for early autumn wear with dressy frocks. These wraps are designed to pass once round the throat, the long ends falling, one in front and the other behind.- Each end is slightly gathered and smocked to a depth of three or four inches and hemmed with fur. Occasionally long fur tails are substituted for the plain band of fur, but in either case the pelt precisely matches the crepe de chine in tone. Some have matching small muffs, which look extremely pretty. Many suits and coats of light-weight woollen fabrics show separate scarves of self material, the ends being finished in similar style or with stitching.

Here is an attractive frock in wool canton in the new soft shade of Saracen red. Every shade of red seems to be fashionable. The skirt is box pleated and ornamented with stitching. The bodice is smocked on the shoulders, and is further ornamented with stitching, giving a coat and long-waisted effect. The belt also plays an important part, as it does with all the modish daytime frocks. (Belts may be made of self material with

colourful motifs or a plain tailored buckle, or patent leather’ or suede belts may be used.) The bodice has embroidery in the centre front in the Chinese style. Chinese embroideries are seen on many of the new fashions. Many of the _ latest designs are taken from China, including the wide Chinese sleeves and the large, flat bows placed on the back of a skirt or the front of a bodice. Vivid reds, blues, and greens are the colours in Chinese embroidery.

To complete the sports costume the helmet bandeau of Italian doiville embroidery is the newest Parisian device. This chic one illustrated is in vividcoloured felt. It looks in the gay colours of the winter fashions very attractive. And the shoe—the new spectator sports shoe —is of smart, dull kid combined

with tweed . and ornamented with a tailorised buckle. What more modish style of shoe could one have to wear with the tweed ensemble or suit? And how warm they will keep the feet! One’s feet grow so cold when one is watching sports that these tweed-trimmed shoes will sure to be popular as well as becoming.