IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3885, 28 August 1928, Page 64

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By Marguerite. (Special for the. Otago Witness.) 'l’he beautiful Earth is a matron fair, : And bounteous Nature makes-her clothes.: Her attire in spring lias a juvenile air," • As every daughter Of Eye well knows. Her gown is a delicate green that’s trimmed! , ; ' -With shoots of leaves which ."deftly link, And her hat-is an elegant, thing that’s rimmed With a counties? array of buds in pink. The new spring- fashions show soft, flattering, feminine models! Paris saya it is : smart.> this' season.. t : o. .wear “ pretty ” frocks., and Paris has-been . triumphant. For sunrijv spring,, and summer 'days, there will be fascinating frocks' 1 , of latd, chiffoh,"'ttfllb.' georgette', silks; -dainty muslins, and all printed silken fabrits itt'

charming patterns. The printed chiffons are exquisite,, They look.so soft and dainty with small motifs of flowers evenly arranged or conventional geometrical designs on a light or dark background. Some are in grey plaid effects. Frocks made of these printed chiffons will be in the front row for smart fashionable women. The colours of these fabrics are mauve in all shades, orchid, coral, poppy, pine green, mint green, chartreuse green, French blue, desert, sandalwool, black, navy, black on white, and yellow—bright and dull shades of yellow, which tone so welL with the spring and summer flowers and the green lawns. These lovely frocks are made' with frills, jabots, circular skirts, piped flounces, lace scarves and jabots, and elaborate belts, or huge bows on the back of one hip. One charming tulle frock of turquoise blue which I saw had the ruffled skirt short in front and long and full at the back, with, a large bow on the hip. The bodice had a tulle scarf draped round the front to the back, where it hung loosely below the neck. Attached to the edge was a little pleated upstanding edging. The sleeves were full and hung loosety from the elbow. It was suitable for any dressy function. These new spring 'fashions show that there are two distinct silhouettes—the one dainty, frilly, and feminine; the other for morning gowns and tailor-made costumes, slender and slim in line. Pique will be much worn with the suits—sleeveless pique blouses, collars, and cuffs, and white pique frocks for morning or sports wear will be smart with hats to match. Pique will also trim coloured frocks of other materials. Indeed for these plainer frocks and collars and cuffs it is going to mean much washing, starching, and ironing, for printed cotton materials, ginghams (having scale designs in blended colours), and fine white linens are being shown in all the leading shops. There are, too. voiles—geometrical and key patterned and floral and spotted. All designs are small. For suits there are navy blue, grey, and small checks. Although these colours are sombre, by combining them with bright, vivid colours- delightful costumes are the result. The splash of colour and the "■earing of suitable accessories make the effect complete. Jewellery, too, plays an important part. Buttons and braid are used freely on coats, which otherwise are severely plain and fastened in front with one button. These look very smart worn with the sleeveless pique vest.

For my full-length illustration I am showing a dainty white muslin frock.

The skirt is covered with little frills of muslin edged with tiny tucks and the narrowest of fine Valenciennes lace. The bodice is slightly pouchy, with hand embroidery and fine tucks. A small vest of lace completes the front. Narrow pleated muslin finishes the round neck, which is wider towards the shoulders, much deeper round the back, and is also edged with the narrow lace. Two rows of the pleated muslin finish the sleeves. The

hat’ is one the new,-large kind with a t,band of embroidered ribbon, and ostrich

feathers laid flat on the side. Dainty tie shoes of white kid or in a pale pastel shade make an ensemble which is sweetly feminine. For a race meeting, a. garden party, or an -important afternoon function it is ideal. * * * This illustrates a pretty , little voile frock of *a small floral pattern zhich is very effective—little - garlands of flowers on a mauve, pale, green, or yellow ground. Note the hem, which is of plain coloured voile - to ‘match the flowers. ■ The scarf has a hem to match. The skirt is box pleated, > the-bodice slightly pouchy, and the ■ neck cut? square. ; The. broad, drooping hat of natural straw .should -be trimmed with a- large flat plaque of flowers lying flat-on the side.

> tiaw bags are being used for frocks ot washing fabric, and look very smart. Hemp bags are used, too. to go with hemp hats. They are very suitable for all sports, golf, etc., and for shopping, as they last for ages. Their (lull colour tones with grey and beige ensembles. ** • * Here is a pale yellow linen coat to be worn with a pleated skirt. The buttonholes are inset ones, bound with white linen, and fastening on to white buttons. Ihe belt is of soft yelllow leather with a large white buckle. The finely pleated frilling is of white. With this costume

summer felt or yellow straw, trimmed with a large white buckle like th? belt buckle and a tiirht narrow band of ribbon. This costume could be made in a thin wooilen fabric of navy blue and white or grey and red. * -s * Mother-of-pearl bags and mother-of-pearl shoes are the new accessories which some Paris shops have created for the summer. These bags and shoes are not made of real mother-of-pearl, but in leather varnished in such a way that it has the particular shine of pearl. It is really difficult to say of what exact colour they are—ivory passing into pink or green or very pale yellow—just the elusive tinges of mother-of-pearl. The papers from abroad say they are charming and exclusive. * * * I’liis is a chic necklace and bracelet of gold leaves cut from very bright, polished gilt metal. The necklace lies fiat round the neck and the gold glitters against

the white skin. The bracelet fits firmly and is closed with a medallion of a semiprecious stone. Worn with the dainty, chiffon summer frocks these gold leaves look very fascinating. * * * If you have a scarf you are tired of. a wide long silk one, cut off the fringe if it has one, double it, cut it in half; lay a princess-pattern petticoat on top, and shape it to fit you. Shoulder straps and silk for working will b e the only expense, and your scarf will be a charming silk slip to wear under a summer frock, or a small maid’s frock if the scarf is a large evening one. One grows tired of the same coloured scarf or shawl, so an hour’s sewing will turn it into a useful garment. • • • The early spring hosiery shows fancy lace clox running from the knees towards the ankles. They are in a deeper tone than the stocking. Others of silk and wool mixture have embroidered clox of a darker shade. They look neat and smart, especially in beige shades. HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. When marking linen take a rather blunt lead pencil, write the name or initials, and follow over the pencil mark with ink. The lead prevents the ink from running. To keep a loaf fresh for as long as possible, cut in the centre and use from each side. By placing the two cut edges together and wrapping in a clean cloth they will keep fresh and moist. Tiled hearths should never lie washed with water, as this causes the enamel to split. Dip a cotton cloth in turpentine, and rub the tiles until they are clean. Polish with a soft doth. - J

If a little kerosene is added to the water when boiling clothes, they -will require less rubbing to remove the dirt. The odour of kerosene does not remain in the clothes after drying. The housewife will find a pair of rubber gloves a great preventive of red, rough hands. They are a protection when scraping potatoes, preparing fruit, and washing up greasy dishes. ~ Stains caused by sea water can lie removed from brown leather shoes by rubbing them- with a mixture of milk and soda. Dissolve a large piece of common soda in a cupful of hot milk, and rub this solution well into the leather. Afterwards polish with a good shoe cream. Soda water used with a good tooth paste is much better than tap water. The teeth become whiter, and a sensation of thorough cleanliness is felt in the gums, tongue, and throat. White enamel furniture should be washed in warm soapy water, wiped as dry as possible, and then rubbed with a flannell dipped in dry whiting. Give a final rub with a clean leather. Carpets may be brightened and cleaned with warm water into a quart of which two raw potatoes have been scraped, and allowed to stand for ten minutes before straining. Rub the carpet with the fluid. Oil paintings may be most effectively cleaned with olive oil and vinegar, using twice as much of the former as the latter for the mixture. Wipe dry with soft old rag, and polish with a clean, soft preferably linen. Paint brushes that are stiff with dried paint should be soaked for a night in a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water, and washed the following day in plenty of warm soapy water. If this fails to remove the dried paint, the brushes must be soaked in equal parts of linseed oil and turpentine. Washleather gloves are easily washed in a lather of soap and warm water. Don’t rub the soap on the gloves, just squeeze them in the lather till the dirt is removed. Finally rinse in more warm soapy water, squeeze as dry as possible, and hang out in the air. Gloves treated like this should be as good as new after each washing. Powdered borax will get rid of cockroaches if used every night regularly for two or three weeks. Scatter it round their holes, over the floor, on shelves, and wherever the creatures are known to congregate, not forgetting the sink and any water taps, for cockroaches always flock to the water. Borax is perfectly harmless to domestic animals, and very cheap. When stringing beads it is sometimes difficult to find a needle fine enough to go through the bead and with an eye large enough to take the thread. A good substitute for a needle can be made by dropping the melted wax from a lighted candle on the end of the thread, which is then twisted between the fingers, and when cold is ready for . use. Leather goods quickly deteriorate when stored in cold damp places. If a suitcase is worn and scratched at the corners, paint the shabby part over with a fine brush dipped in white of egg. This will improve the appearance of the leather, and the egg will form a film over the surface that will prevent further wear. Dark and greasy spots should be gently rubbed with fine sandpaper. If the virtues of bran water - were more' • generally known there would be bran in every house. It is unrivalled as a dirt remover. The most delicate prints or muslins may be washed in it with advantage, and it is excellent for cleaning paint. As a hairwash it cleanses the scalp thoroughly and gives lustre to the hair. It is an excellent skin whitener and is beneficial when used in the bath. .To prepare, fill a calico bag with bran, pouring boiling water over it, leave for 10 minutes, then squeeze out the bag and remove. The water is then ready for use.

HOME INTERESTS.

FRUIT TART. Required: Two ounces sultanas, 2oz currants, 2oz sugar, one teacupful Stale cake crumbs, juice and rind of a lemon, one egg, 6oz short pastry, cream 3d. Clean and dry the fruit, and put it in a basin with the sugar and cake crumbs. Grate the yellow only of the lemon rind, and add it to the mixture with the lemon juice. Beat the egg and- stir it in. Roll out the pastry on a floured board, and line a small tin plate with it. Flake up the edges a little with the back of a knife. Fill with the fruit filling, and bake in a moderate oven for about 25 minutes. When cold decorate With whipped cream. CHERRY GINGER CAKE. Required: Ten ounces of flour, 3oz of glace cherries, 3oz of crystallised or glace ginger, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a flat teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, half a flat teaspoonful of ground ginger, 6oz of margarine, 6oz caster sugar, two eggs, milk. Cut up the cherries and ginger, Sieve the flour with the cream of tartar, carbonate of soda, and ground ginger. Cream the fat and sugar. Add each egg separately and stir in quickly, beating well for a few minutes before adding the next. When both are well beaten in, gradually stir in the flour and prepared fruit, with some milk as required. Be careful not to mix it too moist. Mix together lightly, turn into a prepared cake ‘ tin, and put into a moderately hot oven to bake. It will take about one and a-quarte.r hours. MIXING OF A CAKE. A wooden spoon is quite correct for mixing, and if butter and sugar are to be beaten to, a cream vigorous beating Is.required. The butter should not be allowed to become oily, ' as this makes a heavy cake. The mixture !< when -completed should be moist, not stiff, . and the fruit should, be added last of all. Of course, the fruit should he previously prepared. ;

Improper mixing or firing is often the cause of dampness in the centre of'a cake. A uniform heat must be'robtained. If a cake is fired in the gas' oven, -it is necessary to have the top shelf placed a little further down than usual. That method is followed - for the larger cakes. This makes the-top heat more even, and surrounds, the cake -with a better heat. When the cake, begins to brown, place a greased paper on the. top. So long as the cake is rising the oven door should be opened as little as possible. Care should also be taken to open it gently, as a draught causes the cake to fall in the centre, and this makes it sodden. The cake should not be tested with a skewer until it has fully risen.

When the cake is taken from the oven it should be left for a few minutes in order that it may contract from the sides of the tin. If there is difficulty in turning it out, the tin should be surrounded with a wet cloth for a second or two/ It is essential that the tin should be well greased at the outset. For large cakes layers of paper are also necessary. » * * For all large cakes a very moderate oven is required, and it is a good plan to light the oven 10 minutes or so beforehand. Before putting the cakes in, reduce the heat. A large peep of gas, so to speak, is correct for cake-making. Large cakes take a long time to bake, but for those who have had little practice a cake with from Jib to |lb of flour is quite large enough. A cake of this size generally takes anything from an hour to an hour and a-half, but the time taken depends upon the depth of cake tin used. A cake with IJlb of flour generallytakes about three hours.