A TOURIST ROUTE.

Otago Witness, Issue 3833, 30 August 1927, Page 32

A TOURIST ROUTE.

\AKES HAWEA AND WANAKA TO FRANZ JOSEF via HAAST PASS. FIRST STAGE.

By

Eric James.

The Haast Pass has nnt yet enjoyed the popularity that is merited by it, but thanks to the progressive spirit of the proprietors of the Dunedin-Wanaka motors, who have in recent years estab- ' lished a daily service from both Dunedin and Invercargill, the opportunity is now presented to tourists of making the trip from Lakes Hawea and Wanaka to the Franz Josef Glacier by this route. In addition, the establishment of a base depot of the White Star horse service at Makarora (at the head of Lake Wanaka, where arrangements can be made for guides and horses, provides facilities that nave been lacking in the past to those desirous of making this trip, which can now be done in six days from Pembroke inclusive of the day taken by launch up the lake and car to the accommodation house. Those wishing to do so can commence their trip from the foot of Lake Hawea, following the bridle track along the shores of both Hawea and Wanaka Lakes to Makarora. The regular launch service day's on Wanaka are Mondays and Thursdays during the summer. Another boat is being now fitted up to run on different days. It is understood also that another accommodation house will shortly he erected close to the original boarding house, which was successfully conducted by the late Mrs Ewing for many years. The Haast Pass track offers perhaps the largest variety of vegetation and <.cenic attractions to be found on any one tourist route in the Dominion. It is fast becoming known, and is becoming popular, especially amongst those accustomed to riding. Travellers making the trip without a guide should have in their possession • modem map, and should obtain local directions and particulars with regard to river fords for each stage of the journey. Unless the traveller has had some previ-

ous experience of mountain • and bush tracks and of fording rivers, this trip should not be commenced without a guide. A whole tour has often been spoilt through some accident which would never have happened had a guide been in charge of the party. Several persons who have lost their way while without food and been exposed to bad weather were novices who undertook the trip with little idea of the direction of the track.

After leaving Makarora accommodation house, the trail is a well-formed vehicle road. It soon leaves the bleak, ferncovered hills and enters the forest area. An early start should be made, especially if the Clarke hut, distant 35 miles, is to be the destination. The Makarora Valley road is followed up the right bank of the river until the. remains of an old sawmill are seen. There the first bush track is entered. Fifteen minutes’ travellino and a small flat is reached. There should be no difficulty in finding the entrance of the new section of bush track, which is nearly twice the distance of the first section. Another flat, much larger than the last, is crossed and the bush again entered. On leaving this third section of bush, the traveller must make for the Kiwi Flat, on the right over the riverbed gravel, and proceed to within a few hundred yards from the top of it. . The river is crossed by a good ford, and i is followed on the left side for some ' seven minutes till Davis’s Flat is reached, the highest in the Makarora Valley. Right, at the top of this flat the track enters the bush and commences its climb to the saddle. Half a mile further the Fish River is forded and the climb commences in earnest. Those riding should make sure that all girths are tight before climbing. Ladies who are a little nervous would do well to walk up for 10 minutes. When the horses are taking sharp inclines the rider should not on . any account*. lie back and pull on the reins. They should sit well forward, leave the reins loose, and grip the mane with one hand a little in front of the wither. One nasty, steep face will be noticed some 15 minutes from the Fish. It was at this point that a visiting doctor made his sudden descent and had a miraculous escape, while his horse was killed. The track here is now quite solid, and there is no danger. In 20 minutes j the pass should be reached, below the

timber line (1847 ft A large tree has fallen across the track, but a rough track has been cut round it. A few yards further on, on the left side of the track will be found an iron trig peg, which marks the boundary between Otago and Westland. The trail now descends gradually into' Mule Valley, the highest valley in the Haast Valley, so named on account of having been the grazing place for mules used by Sir Julius von Haast and his party when the pass was found and explored. The river has to be forded many times, but it carries little water. Care should, however, be taken if there is a fresh in the river.

On the right towers Mount Brewster, always snow-topped. It is over 8000 ft, and possesses a large glacier of the same name. Just before the creek that runs from it is reached the snowfields ai.d a tK>rtion of the glacier can be seen. I am of opinion a track could be cut to give access to the glacier at verv little cost. It is my intention to explore this possibility in the spring. Before reaching the Brewster Creek a small gorge is encountered, but a rough track will be found on the right. The traveller must be warned, immediately upon emerging, not to enter the track over the river, but to keep to the riverbed. This section of the original track is at present in very bad order. Further down another small gorge is encountered, but ‘ this time a track will be seen on the left. At Dinner Flat, the next flat down, the track will be found on the left at the bottom of the flat. This flat was once noted for its luxuriant growth of white clover, but since the arrival of deer not a particle of feed is to be seen. The track now passes through . Fmge boulders of broken country. The traveller can see the gates of the Haast, under with the river roars, although that is not" visible. A little below it the river is crossed, and the track rises slightly. Far below roars the river as it forces its way over and through enormous rocks. The track now winds down to where the Wills River enters the Haast-. A bridge spans it, and most travellers stop here to get a few snapshots, which can be taken from many angles. On the lower side of the bridge a track leads down to the river, where some good views have been taken. There is a rough

blazed track up the Wills Gorge, at the head of which a nice open vallev is reached. Trampers seeking new fields could make this trip, following the river to its head and nassing over into the Hunter Valley, which drains into Lake Hawea. It would, however, be rather too strenuous for the majority of trampers. The descent from the Well’s Bridge to the Burke is a little over two miles. Several tracks will be noticed where horses have been rescued after having slipped over the side when attempting to scramble over fallen trees, etc. A number of young horses'* being driven to the Landsborough were lest at this place a few years ago. All were killed in the fall. Twenty minutes before the Burke hut is reached a fine waterfall will be seen on the opposite side of the gorge.

The Burke branch of the Haast enters a little before the hut is reached, but is not seen from the track. It is entered only during the stalking season. Prospectors have on a few occasions penetrated this country, and some specimens of rich quartz have been taken out. As a result two men were subsidised to explore for a reef, but the younger of the two was drowned opposite the Burke hut, and I the venture lapsed. Trampers often choose to stay at the Burke hut, but it is at present not so convenient for riders, as there is no fenced paddock, but grass is plentiful. The site has recently been secured for an accommodation house, but it is considered a bit early for such a venture. Shortly after a departure from the hut, the now united waters of the Haast, Wills, and Burke have to be forded. It is a good ford, but trampers will find it up to their waist in the deepest part. If there is any extra water in it, it is prudent to make up stream, on the ford, reaching the bank 15 to 20 yards above the signpost. After the track has been crossed again, the bush is entered 200 yards to the left, and beyond it a large grassy flat is crossed. This is stocked with well-bred Hereford cattle and scores of deer can be seen grazing on it in the evening time. Near the bottom of the track the river has again to be crossed. The ford in this instance is not so good as the last, but it is marked by signjy s. Trampers who find rather much water in the river can continue down on the same side. At the edge of the bush an old track will be picked up, but it will be found to be much overgrown. After crossing, the rider passes down the Wilson Flat, keeping in line with the signposts. The river is recrossed again by a good ford, and then it is necessary to make for the signpost at the foot of the hill. Here a track enters and climbs round the Clarke Bluff, from which some

good views can be taken, looking north, from which direction flows the largest branch of the Haast, the Landsborough. It rises some 80 miles inland in the mountains at the back of the Hermitage.

The Clarke River, a clear blue little river, also flows from this direction, entering the Landsborough two miles up. This clear little river is ideally suited for trout, and a movement is being made to get it stocked. The lower Haast is well stocked, but the first have not penetrated this far inland, probably by reason of the cold snow waters of the Landsborough. On a clear, sunny day the Hooker Glacier, from which flows the Clarke River, can be distinctly seen. The snow-capped peak standing ut prominent from its lesser neighbours can also be viewed on a clear day.

Gold was struck up the Landsborough in the early days, but was soon abandoned, being not thought sufficiently payable, and the locality being so inaccessible. The descent from the Clarke Bluff should be made just after passing under a large overhanging rock. It is very steep and it is advisable to dismount, especially if the mounts are not cruppered. The balance of the day’s journey, though only about one and a-half miles, takes nearly an hour, as it is over stony riverbed. A signpost will be seen in the distance on the riverbed. One© this is reached the traveller must turn to the left bank to another post, where a track leads to the paddock. He must always shut the gates. There is good grazing here for horses in the summer time. The hut, which is a newly-erected Government hut, is situated a little off the track on the left, but can be easily seen. It is a two-roomed building lined with ruberoid, and contains bunks for eight and room on the floor for several more. A lean-to at the back is built for saddlery. A track tff the left of the hut leads to a creek. When leaving travellers should always observe the unwritten law of the bush — leave plenty of dry wood for the' next comers. They will be blessed should their successors arrive in the wet or dark. There are few’ mosquitoes in this hut. Mount MFarlane, also over 8000 ft, towers above and in front of the hut.