THE HANDY MAN'S CORNER.

Otago Witness, Issue 3832, 23 August 1927, Page 10

THE HANDY MAN'S CORNER.

RE-LAYING A TILED HEARTH.

(Special for the Otago Witness.)

When a few slack tiles are detected in a hearth (Fig. I) they should be very carefully lifted from their places, and, if necessary, numbered or lettered to ensure replacement in precisely the. same position or direction; numbering can be effected with a paint made of whiting and water, or with ordinary thin oil colours. ICxamine the “ bed,’’ or underlying plaster or cement layer, from which the tiles have been removed- If this is cracked or broken, or exhibits a disposition to crumble, it will be an indication that the whole is rotten, and that the re-laying of the entire hearth should J>e undertaken. Confirmation of this can be obtained by tapping the tiles in the vicinity to ascertain if any are slack. If they are found to be firm carefully chip away the soft or cracked parts of the cement bed, brush away every trace of dusty matter, and soak it well with water. Examine the back of the tiles, and chip off all projecting knobs of cement, and immerse the tiles in water. Prepare sufficient plaster of Paris by pouring it into a basin of cold water, stirring the mixture the while with a piece of stick or a spoon. Add sufficient plaster to the water to make a creamy-like fluid, and immediately pour it into the bad place on the hearth. Use enough of the plaster to bring its surface rather more than level with the bottom of the adjacent tiles. Replace one of the tiles while the plaster is quite wet. pressing it firmly into place, but not quite home, so that it stands a trifle above the adjacent tiles. Replace the remaining tiles as quickly as possible, and then lay a piece of smooth

board over them. Gently press it down, ami lightly beat the tiles down into place with a wooden mallet. Use common sense on this part of the work, and do not be timid, or the plaster will set before the tiles are driven home. Beware also of being too energetic with the mallet, or the tiles will be broken. Some of the plaster should have been squeezed upwards be-

tween the tiles. If not, proceed to work some very thin plaster between them, using an old stiff-bristled brush. Wipe off all surplus plaster from the tiles before it dries or “ sets.” Allow the tiles to remain undisturbed for a day to set, and do not light the fire to dry them.

If the whole hearth has io be relaid some modification of this method is neces- I sary. First, remove the fire-bars, etc.: ami then make a plan of the tiles and their arrangement, marking them in some way to ensure correct replacement. Remove and clean all the tiles, and chip away the “ bed.” Prepare a wooden batten or straight edge as shown in Fig. 11. long enough to reach from side to side of the hearth. Nail a very smooth, narrow board to the underside of the batten, making the board about one-eighth thicker than the tiles. Prepare sufficient Portland cement mortar to cover the hearth, and use the special batten, as shown in Fig. 111, to level the surface. The batten or “ joint rule,” as it is called, if moved about over the cement, will level and sufficiently smoothen its surface, being worked downwards until the ends rest on the adjacent floor boards. Allow the cement to set, which will take a few hours or more. Then make up a weak cement mortar, or alternately mix some plaster, and commence relaying the tiles. Begin at the left-hand outer corner, and work along the front edge, proceeding next with the first row along the two sides. Take care to force the tiles closely together, or there will not be room enough for the last—a trouble often experienced by the amateur tiler. 'When weak center, is used, the whole area can be covered with it; when plaster is used, treat only a part at a time, but use plenty of water to keep the edge of the plaster from setting. Finish the surface, and fill in the cracks as before.