NEW ZEALAND HARBOURS

Otago Witness, Issue 3831, 16 August 1927, Page 27

NEW ZEALAND HARBOURS

MR H. C. CAMPBELL’S REVIEW

'the progress of a hundred YEARS.

At the annual meeting of the Dunedin Chamber of Commerce last week, the retiring President (Mr H. C. Campbell) laid before the members an interesting paper concerning the ports and harbours in the Dominion and the progress made in their development since New Zealand was placed under British official control about 1W years ago. The paper is as under: — In dealing with ports and harbours we shall commence at the North Cape and ■work to the south along the east coast, proceeding round Foxeaux Straits and g.orth along the West Coast to Cape Maria Van Diemen. The first port is ParengaRenga. This is a bar harbour with a sandy spit extending from the entrance point. There is a weekly service to Auckland from this port by the Northern Company’s steamers. Agriculture is carried on around this locality, also considerable fishing industry. It is the most northern settlement in New Zealand, and is 286 miles north of Auckland. Port Mangonui. —This port is a safe harbour, and is tho centre from which. the Crown lands of Mangonui can be visited. The chief export is timber. The Northern Company makes regular weekly trips bebetween here and Auckland. This beautiful inlet has a great future. D’Urville, the French navigator, landed here in 1769, and is said to have been here when Captain Cook sailed past. . . tj Whangaroaßay (means “Long Waiting ). —ln this bay there is good anchorage from nine fathoms to 11 fathoms. There are two mountains at Whangarora named St. Peter and St. Paul. They are said to be very remarkable, and the general opinion is that St. Paul on .the eastern side resembles the dome of St. Paul s Cathedral in London. The exports are largely timber, gum, fruit, and vegetables. There is steamer communication once a week with Auckland by the Northern Steamship Company’s vessels. This is the harbour where the sad disaster befell the H.M.S. Boyd, which was captured and destroyed by the Natives in the year 1804. . . Port Russell, Bav of Islands.—This is one of tho most, if not the most, interesting harbour m New Zealand. It has accommodation for anchorage purposes for any Vessel, being well sheltered from all winds except the north and east. As you are no doubt aware Russell was the seat of the first settlement of a permanent nature in New Zealand. \ Through the large number of whalers visiting the Bay of Islands and making it their headquarters, it became so important in the year 1833 that the New South Wales Government sent a British Resident to keep law and order; but long before this the great and wonderful missionary Samuel Marsden lancied in Russell in the year 1814. . Opua is on the same estuary, ’about six or seven miles further inland above Russell. In the early days the Union Steam Ship Company’s intercolonial vessels used to call at Opua once a week for bunker coal. There is a weekly service by Northern Steamship Company’s vessels from Russell to Auckland, and overseas vessels call at regular intervals for frozen mutton. lhe chief exports of this district are mutton, fish, oysters, flax, gum, and timber. Tutiikaka Harbour.—This favourite coasting harbour is only a mile and a-half northward from Ngunguru River, where most of the Native exports are shipped. Whangarea (“Steady Charge”) is a good and safe harbour in all weathers. Whangarei town is generally called Onerahi. The railway passes through the township, a branch of which continues down to Grahamtown, which lies about two and a-half miles below Whangarei, where a large wharf about 1200 ft long has been built, with the railway leading on to same. Regular communication has been kept open between this port and Auckland by the Northern Steamship Company. It is the most northern municipality in the Dominion. The Great Wairau Falls, the Niagara of New Zealand, lie about 17 miles from Whangarei. Whangateau lies in the north-west corner of Little Omaha Bay, and is much frequented by the smaller vessels. Mahurangi Harbour (“The Rock that points to the Sky”).—Another small port available for small vessels from which communication is kept open with Auckland by the Northern Steamship Company. At the upper end lies the township of Warkworth. Auckland. —We now come to the most important harbour in the North Island. You are all so well acquainted with the conditions of the surrounding country that I need not give you any details on this matter, but I merely wish to say that in my opinion this harbour is the most up-to-date in all respects in New Zealand. The following description of wharves and shed accommodation will be interesting:—

" The Commercial harbour is protected on the east and west by tide deflectors. A comprehensive scheme of harbour improvement is now in progress. “ All the main wharves are built of reinforcced concrete, the general design being a central roadway 60ft wide with sheds on either side 320 ft long and from 60ft to 80ft wide, and quays on the water side 32ft wide with double lines of rails having convenient cross-overs. The goods are loaded into vehicles at the central roadway from loading banks and chutes provided for the purpose. “ The total length of berthage at the city wharves is 17,600 ft, of which 7800 ft is * served by railway lines. The total length of berthage at the suburban wharves is 4250 ft. The wharves and sheds are adequately lit with electric light. A double line of railway, with convenient cross-over roads, is laid to each berth at the King’s, Central, Queen’s, and Prince’s Wharves, and will eventually be laid upon several other wharves. These railways are all connected with the New Zealand railway system.” The wharves are all well equipped with cranes for the quick despatch of ships. There is also the Calliope Dock which is the largest dock in the Dominion. In 1826 the British ship “Rosanna” with immigrants sailed up Hauraki Gulf, but tho hostile attitude of the Natives compelled them to leave.

After rounding Cape Colville the Great Barrier Island or Aotea becomes visible, where there have been several wrecks—-

the Wairarapa, 1894, the Lalla Rjookh, in 1887, and the Wiltshire, 1923. The island is some 25 miles long and was named by Captain Cook from its forming a complete breakwater or barrier to the capacious Hauraki Gulf.

On the Hauraki Gulf there is also the important harbours of Thames and Coromandel, both of which have regular communication by steam with Auckland. Thames named by Captain Cook, 1769, owing to its resemblance to River Thames. There are various bays of interest between Coromandel and Tauranga Harbour,'which afford shelter and from which small vessels trade with timber, etc. Tauranga Harbour is on the western side of the Bay of Plenty and in the early days it was found a very difficult harbour to work by the sailing vessels, but the advent of steamships has altered these conditions, and the port is now becoming more important every year. Between Tauranga and Gisborne there are several small bays and rivers and inlets to which small vessels trade at regular intervals, the most important of these being Tokomaru Bay and Tolago Bay at which places overseas ships load frozen products in the offing.

Gisborne. —Situated at the head of Poverty Buy, the historic part of the coast that was first sighted by Captain Cook on his first voyage to New Zealand, October 8, 1769. The river passing through the town has been protected by 'breakwaters and dredged to enable small vessels to load and discharge at the wharves, but overseas and larger vessels load and discharge in the roadstead. Napier.—At this port there are two harbours —an inner and an outer. The outer one is a beautiful harbour, made by breakwaters; the inner one—generally called the Spit or the Iron Pot—is formed by the scour of the river. In fine weather work can be carried out at the breakwater harbour by overseas ships without interruption, but at times vessels are compelled to put to sea until the weather moderates.

Wellington.—This port and its history are so well known to you all that I need not give any details concerning the conditions prevailing, only that the Harbour Board has been endeavouring for many years to keep the wharves, crane, and all facilities right up to date to give shipping every’ possible opportunity for quick loading and discharging. Kaikoura Peninsula. —Small vessels are able to load and discharge here in fine weather. The next harbour of importance is the port of Lyttelton, which, as you are aware, is endeavouring to keep up to date by dredging to admit of large overseas ships entering the port and by’ installing necessary electric cranes on its wharves to give ships quick dispatch.

We now come to the beautiful harbour of Akaroa, which was an important harbour in days gone by, much more important than at the present day. However, once a vessel enters this harbour she is perfectly safe in any weather conditions. In 1840 an attempt was made to found a French colony, which attempt was forestalled a few hours only by Captain Stanley’, of H.M.S. Britomart, who hoisted the British flag and toook possession. French immigrants landed here in 1850, amongst whom were six Germans, who, being unable to secure sections, formeci. a settlement of their own, called German Bay.

Timaru. —This is an artificial harbour, and so far the best artificial harbour in the Dominion. All overseas ships are able to load and discharge within the shelter of the breakwater. Timaru should be “ Tie-maru,” which means “ Cabbage Tree Shelter.” First immigrants in “ Strathallau,” 551 tons, January 14, 1859.

Oamaru.—On the southern edge of the Ninety’ Mile Beach, and is, as you know, well adapted for coastal trade and overseas ships of moderate draught. Otago.—We now come to the very important harbour, our own. It is hardly necessary to make any’ comments on our harbour except that we have to maintain by dredging a channel from the Heads to Dunedin wharf, which is about 18 miles. After many years’ operations we are today able to bring to Port Chalmers vessels of 30ft draught on high tide and to Dunedin 22ft 6in to 23ft. The building of the Mole at the Heads to high-water mark is in progress, and it is honed that when completed some improvement will be

effected in the channel. You will be interested to know that in the earlier days our harbour was known as Port Daniel. The name was given by the whaling ships

visiting here about the year 1800. At this time there were about 600 Native houses on the flat land between Harrington Point and the Kaik. This was all destroyed by the master of the whaling brig Sophia b.v setting fire to the whole

town after having fought a pitched battle with the Maoris on December 26, 1817. in which battle 100 Natives were killed

or drowned. The chief of the settlement had a navy’ of 42 canoes, and after the battle the master of the Sophia sawed all the canoes up into short lengths and took them aboard his vessel for firewood. On leaving Taiaroa Heads there are several rivers such as the Molyneux, Catlins. and Waikawa, where small schooners used to trade in the early’ days and which are still visited by small vessels. Bluff Harbour. —This used to be called Campbell Town or Port Macquarie, named in honour of Governor Macquarie of New South Wales in the early’ days. It has two channels leading to the main entrance, one called the south and the other the north. The south channel carries the most water, but the tide in the main channel runs very strong, and in consequence vessels of heavy draught have to enter and leave at slack water. Ports and Harbours on Stewart Island. —We have some very fine harbours, in fact, some of the finest harbours in the world, on Stewart Island —viz., Patterson’s Inlet and Port Pegasus, which in the early days were the scenes of ship building as well as being havens of refuge for the whalers and sealers operating around the South Island. We now come to the best and most interesting harbours in the whole world—the West Coast Sounds of New Zealand. There are 14 of these beautiful Sounds from Preservation Inlet to Milford Sound which no doubt in the years to come will be more frequented, and better use made of their haven of : efuge. Unfortunately, whilst years ago opportunities were given to visit these Sounds, of later years this has been discontinued.

Hokitika.—This is a bar harbour, and only available for small craft. It means “Direct Return.”

Greymouth (Maori name, “Mawhera”). —This is situated on the mouth of the Grey or Mawhera River. It is a bar harbour, and is exposed to all weather from the north-east and south-west, but a considerable amount of trade is carried on by coastal and intercolonial vessels. Its principal exports are coal and timber. Westport.—This port is on the Buller River, and is better situated than Greymouth, inasmuch as it is somewhat in the lee of Cape Foulwind, which gives it a certain amount of shelter. The chief export from this port is coal. The port is visited by coastal, intercolonial, and sometimes overseas vessels. The Admiralty purchases large quantities of coal for coaling the men-of-war in various parts of the Pacific Ocean. Westport coal, so far as the Admiralty is concerned, first came into prominence during the great storm on March 16, 1889, at Apia, when H.M.S. Calliope, which was burning. Westport coal, out of a number of other warships of various nationalities, was the only one which managed to get clear of the reefs safely. At the head of Tasman Bay is the important town and harbour of Nelson, which harbour can be looked upon as an artificial one. Seldom overseas vessels visit this port but there is a ferry service daily’ to Wellington. The most prominent feature regarding Nelson is the Boulder Bank," which extends for some 44 miles. It is very' narrow, and nearly covered at high water. Until recent years the entrance to Nelson was round the Boulder Bank, but it has now been cut, and has a channel some 450 ft wide, and the old entrance is no longer- used, and is gradually’ silting up. Nelson is noted for its charming climate, and undoubtedly gives one the idea that the life there is less strenuous than in many' other parts of New Zealand. The Waimea Plains, which are adjacent, are noted for their fruit and hops, and a run through this district is most interesting. On leaving Nelson and pointing to the eastward, we pass through the French Pass, where we come to the beautiful Marlborough Sounds, which have within their shelter some of the finest harbours in the Dominion, but, like the West Coast sounds, their beauty’ and glory are not yet appreciated or made use of. At the head of Charlotte Sound is situated the town of Pieton, which is connected by rail with Blenheim, and daily ferry’ to Wellington. The depth of water will admit any of the overseas ships loading and discharging at Pieton wharves. We pass the Manawatu River which is frequented by small traders, and the next port of importance is Wanganui, on the Wanganui River, which has a bar at its entrance, but is becoming an important shipping port. Coastal vessels are able to proceed over the bar. ’nit the large overseas ships load and discharge at Castle Cliff. It was in 1840 that many' Wellington settlers migrated here, and founded a settlement called “Petre.” It was here the first rebel outbreak occurred in 1848, when the Gillillan family were murdered. It was garrisoned by Imperial troops from 1847 to 1868. The original Maori name was “Whanganui,” meaning a “Great Haven or Bay.” Patea.—This port is frequented by small vessels.

Rounding Cape Egmont we come to New Plymouth, an important artificial’ harbour, which i s noted for the mark seaward by what are known as the Sugar Loaf Islands, the main Sugar Loaf or Paritutu being a remarkable dome-shaped hill 503 ft high. It is really almost an open roadstead, for in heavy weather seas may be washing over a vessel and within the next quarter of an hour she will be alongside the wharf. This port also is growing into prominence and from a geographical position taps a very large district and ocean-going vessels of moderate tonnage are able to lie in safety and load. It is thought that in time this may be the terminating port for the Sydney ferry service as it would curtail the distance by many miles and passengers could then take train to either Wellington or Auckland as desired. The township of New Plymouth is situated about two miles east of the breakwater, and the early- pioneers mostly came from Devonshire and Cornwall, which is indicated by many of tho street names.

Twelve miles north of New Plymouth we have Waitara River, from which largo shipments of frozen products are loaded in the roadstead at its mouth. \V& then come to Raglan and Aotea Harbours, which are frequented by small coastal vessels. Waikato River. —This is one of tho largest rivers in New Zealand. It takes its rise ahput the centre of the North Island in the Tongariro Mountains. It has a shifting bar and is only accessible to small vessels, which shelter inside under the heads and tranship their cargo to steamers specially built for navigating the river. One vessel which nltos on the river carries 45C tons on a draught of about 2ft and discharges her cargo at wayports, including Hamilton, 80 miles up the river, and Cambridge. 100 miles up. Manakau Harbour is unfortunately' a bar harbour, which carries somewhere about 24ft of water on the bar. It is something like our own harbour, being a winding channel from the heads to Onehunga wharf. It was on this bar that the H.M.S. Orpheus was totally wrecked in 1663. Kaipara Harbour.—This is also a bar harbour, but has fairly deep water in a narrow channel In the early days of sailing ships it used to be one of the busiest shipping ports in New Zealand. A fleet of brigs and. schooners used to distribute the beautiful kauri timber from this port all over the Australasian colonies. Kaipara is one of the most extensive inlets in New Zealand, and the entrance as is the ease with all the ports on the West Coast of the North Island it attended with difficulty; but once within there is perfect security for any number of vessels of moderate size. About five miles within the heads four rivers—the Wairoa, the Otamatea, the Oruawaru, and Kaipara—branch off in different directions, winding through some of tho most fertile land in New Zealand and well adapted for agricultural purposes. Each of these rivers are navigable for many miles for vessels of moderate tonnage. The Otamatea runs in a N.E. direction, and has deep water for a distance of 25 miles, smaller vessels can proceed 10 miles further up.

Helensville is at the head of rhe harbour in a south-easterly direction. It is a progressive town, and is connected by railway with Auckland, being on! 36 miles distant. The same line continues on up to Whangarei and Opua. At this point you take steamer to Dargaville and Manga whare, which is situated on the Wairoa River. It is a distance of 64 miles from Helensville to Dargaville. The river at Dargaville is over a mile wide and vessels drawing 20ft can make fast to the wharves. When one realises the navigable area inside Kaipara one regrets that the country in tho vicinity is so shallow, that part of New Zealand being so very confined in area. Leaving Kaipara wo next come to Maunganui Bluff, which is known by the remarkable mountain which lies only 18 miles from the Hokianga River, and rises immediately over _ the sea to a height of over 2045 ft. It is naturally a very conspicuous land mark, and can be distinguished a long distance seaward. Hokianga (“Come Back”), which is also a popular bar harbour similar to Kaipara, and, like Kaipara. was a most important port for distributing timber in the earlier days, but a good deal of the trade that used to go out wes-t is now going to the East Coast. It is the most northernmost port on the West Coast of the North Island. Now, gentlemen, strange as it seems to you, all the North Island has at the present time abqut 34 trading ports. Of these about 14 are available for overseas trade, the remaining 20 can only’ be considered as small craft ports, and out of the total of 34 only about eight can he looked upon as available for havens of refuge under all sorts of weather conditions. Now we take the South Island. There are about 35 trading ports in the South Island, including the beautiful West Coast Sounds. Out of this total of 35 about 24 are available for overseas trade, and 22 may be looked upon as havens of refuge in all weather conditions. By this you will see that the numbers of harbours, small and large, are about equal in both islands, but in the south we have a far larger number of safe ports of entry under all weather conditions, which must eventually, as time goes on, prove a very’ large factor in the interest of the South Island. It is now about 100 years since official control was authorised in New Zealand by the New South Wales Government. This was, as already stated, at the Ba..’ of Islands. Since then wonderful progress has been made in many directions in New Zealand, but it cannot be said that the interest of shipping has received the attention due to it, especially’ as our market is all oversea and depends entirely upon shipping. It is true that since 1850 the Government has established about 64 lighthouses and coastal beacons on the coast of both islands. This in itself must be looked upon as a very’ good achievement during the period, with the resources at the Government's disposal; but it is to be sadly regretted that some attention has not been given to the important matter of having our coast pro--perly and carefully surveyed. The best part of the coast of New Zealand, especially the West Coast of both islands and the East Coast of the South Island, has not been resurveyed since the early navigators made a hurried survey nearly 100 years ago. It is therefore to be hoped that pressure will be brought to bear on those responsible so that a complete survey’ will be carried out which will prove beneficial to shipping interests, which are tho interests of every’ man. woman, and child in the Dominion. The beautiful West Coast Sounds of New Zealand have been so imperfectly surveyed that shipping companies are actually afraid to let their ships enter all these sounds even on excursion trips, but if these Sounds were properly’ and carefully’ surveyed, which could lie done at very’ moderate cost, I am satisfied that they would become very popular with the Australian . people, especially if they could run their ships with confidence on excursions to these beautiful Sounds.