IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3830, 9 August 1927, Page 67

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

By

Marguerite.

I think the world has become far more generous towards dress. You no longer hear the old unkind remarks that were sometimes indulged in when observing pretty things. Apparently a cue has been taken from the advertisement: “Dont envy her her complexion, but improve your own.” It is the motor car spirit, if I may say- so. There was a time whan the carriage excited no end of envy, and when anyone going in for one for the first time was likely 7 to feel a bit uneomfortable in anticipation of what might be said. The motor ear spirit shuts out envy entirely, as all, or nearly enough, aim to have one, secure in the knowledge that when they do it will hardly cause a second glance. All women aim to dress as well as ever they can in these progressive days, and so far from anyone ever saying anything unkind there appears to be a general desire to see it

done. I suppose I should say that this reflects the new order of society, a middle line taken, and some levelled down and some levelled up. In a word, instead of saying, “ Dress within your means,” we now say 7 , “ Dress as well as you can,” which means the same thing, but it’s put far more pleasantly.

Patter, patter, patter, and so, with this for a heading the decree comes that shoes are no longer to contain leathers in violent contrast, but simply more often than not, and then to harmonise with the dress. The line reads —For morning wear fashion presents shoes of the tailored type to go with the tailored frocks, and while patents are black, calfskins are in tan, beige, and rose beige, and kids in .11 the soft tones. For afternoon wear the shoe is dressier —patent, suede, or kid, reptilian of course, those that count being distinguished for their delicate simplicity and lovely lines. When it comes to the evening, then all depends on the occasion, basket weave leathers for the sandal type being quite the thing in some relations, and the silver shoe with the elaborate heel the same in some others. For a telling way of speaking of harmony, what of this—three shop windows, one containing dresses, one hats, and the third shoes, with partitions to keep them apart; and now one window containing all, the partitions gone, which is another way 7 of saying that dress has become a general term for 'all sorts of attire and wear and for everything in association.

We are at that peculiar time when what we wear in the way 7 of millinery links with the past as surely as it doe's with the future. The satin made hat comes, silk if desired in combination, and anything that suggests a Tam origin is

good. But I think you will see satin or silk in combination with straw, less of the one or the other as the milliner may have decided. The little picture will serve for both purposes, as it is just the kind of thing where either idea may 7 be expressed just as well.

You have got to carry 7 a flower ”on your shoulder or to wear it a little below or on the rever, to be in step with the times, but the prettiest thing ever is the spring fancy that uses two “ flowers ” of identical size and make, and while placing one on the shoulder front close to the arm for a cascading drape, places the other on the hip the opposite side, not necessarily 7 for another drape, but sometimes, and then of less size. The “ flower ” gives an undeniable finish to

the little coat, which is more inclined to be of the length of the arm to the fingertips when down than anything shorter, the coat in the case of an ensemble being worn open, and for the latest of a pattern all its own, the dress, neck to hem, being different, and without any pattern at all. But there are really so many ways of combining things, this material and that, especially in the case of the ensemble, which I prefer to always regard as two dresses in one. The pleat is in for a wonderful second innings, this being with the skirt—narrow pleats at times, but broad ones more often, and when the latter often as broad as ever it is possible to have them. And respecting girdle and girdle effects, the double strap iicforc anything, and frequently finished at the side with a bow with ends as large as ever it is possible to have it.

Coats will be worn in spring when desired, but spring coats, of course, and a little fur will be permissible with the collar if of the right kind. This is a spring coat, and what stamps it as such in the design is not the “ flower ” so much as that, to renc-‘ is general, but

that very fine how a..u those manycuffed sleeves. The idea of cuff above

cuff is not confined to coats, as it is a note with dresses, a rather smart little thing in its way, and clearly inspired by the cuffed or gauntleted glove. And it conforms to the vogue for crosswise treatments. of which something more in the way of pictures later on.

Remarkably 7 telling effects are provided by the crosswise marking, which is sometimes that and not always a pleat or flat flounce.'’ It can be achieved by the application or by the needle, the former for preference every time, and a delicate cord about the best thing of all, Some of the new dresses will be so much made in this way that it would only need to apply a few lines of the upright character to suggest something related to bricks. For the lines that run in crosswise 1 ashion mark the dress off as thev ascend from the low girdle to the neck as though it were in even Javers, the sleeves generally being included. Nothing more effective than this feature has ever been devised, and then it is all so very simply done. But observe that these lines are capable of many variations, and what lollows in the next paragraph proves it. 1

Picture for a champion spring model a dress with these features. The material up to a yoke, this being in scallops, the is patternless, and the pleats of the skirt aie, with lines for the purpose, carried lines passing to the points. And then the bodice part is crossed the other way with scallops, all being parallel till the double-strap girdle is reached. And then, the selection being an ensemble, a gaily patterned coat of arm length is worn with a border to match the dress. I say champion model because the original was exhibited as one, and was voted by all who saw it a masterpiece. I shall give you a sketch of it in a couple of weeks’ time or so.

This shows a coat that is a dress and a dress that is a coat, though just as surely the two things may 7 be distinct. It is another striking example of what is knocking at the door in the way of a spring visitor. Have the fur on the collar or not, as that part is unimportant, everything being in those tiers—the

skirt part of the design as a whole and the sleeves. Then note the side, as it is pouched over a marking-off, with this for the result —while in no way taking from the length of the upper section it serves to increase the depth of the lower one. It is just such little things as these that serve to hall-mark a design.

I have an idea that the coming spring is going to be the dressiest ever known, and I have a further idea that you will see a wealth of pretty things in the stores that will take your breath away. And I have a still further idea that you will be shown such price tickets as will cause you to say 7 that at least part of what is there is being given away in that ymu will be unable to say how it is done unless ymu do. For which there are all sorts of good reasons, some of them related to business, but they will be to your advantage all along the line.

These are two pretty 7 selections, each in its own department. The suit in the panel is just the kind of smart little turnout that must please the wearer —a suit with those dainty little touches about it

that tell of taste on the part of the designer. The dress owes something to that section between the bodice and the skirt, and again to that very generous how that finishes the crossover at the side.