IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3829, 2 August 1927, Page 67

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO DATE DRESS NOTES. By Marguerite. We Have arrived at the time when we can say yesterday is yesterday and today is to-day, as it happens to be with the scene-shifters at work, and with yet another season to stage. What is the guiding line? Something quite different from anything before, as it amounts to a command: “ Perfect what you have.” As I said before, the great designers have had no surprises in store for us this time. They have simply remodelled the best of the things at their hands, and given the improvements a new lease of life with different materials and a different touch with the details. . And if they have harped on accessories it is because they happen to be the things that are going to distinguish the- season— accessories and ever accessories, and nil c-n suite top to toe. In which connection a line as to exhibitions. I myself hope that the day is not far distant when one will be held I for each season. They do it in France, they do it in England, and they do it, plus, in America. Picking up the “ Fashions ” section of a famous American Journal reaching mo by the last mail, the first thing 1. caught sight of was an account of the Dress Exhibition in New York. And what is such a thing like? I shall tell you from this advice. On the present occasion the great houses of the city named combined in the usual way and engaged the ballroom of the Hotel Astor. In the centre of this they had put up a pretty modern cottage, and the object of that was for the mannequins. At regular times these young ladies came down the steps, though not in too regular a way’, and then, after wandering about a bit entered the cottage again by, it seems, another door. And with music going and refreshments being served, their particular task was to make themselves evident in their dresses, which, as trained hands, they did. It was to open the season, to show what would be worn — materials, styles, and colours. And there you have it.

My own little exhibition to-day will consist of what you see —pictorial showings leajjng the way. Millinery counting for so much. I start with a hat of decidedly novel character, as well as being very pretty. A pronounced feature with many’ of the hats now making their appearance is a raised frontal _ treatment, or kind of arched effect. This gives it very’ nicely in one form, as though the hat had been thrown back, if you will follow me in that observation. There is no particular need to take any’ notice of the checked top. I had to pick it out in some way, and thought this just as good as another. In the real thing it might be a piece of silk or satin in contrast, and yet not necessarily’ so. as I observe with the overseas pictures that straw is being combined in 'all sorts of fascinating way’s. Thus you will see straw

combined with silk and satin or anything else that serves, and wonderful straw at that, if I can believe all I read.

And as for ornaments, well anything and everything, but always simple, and then not too much of it. Gone are the days of the flower garden, and gone, too, the over-indulgence of feathers.

With spring it will be ever so much easier to indulge in some home work. Winter has a disadvantage, as the very nature of the materials is against domestic construction, and then, to my’ mind, whatever the mode, the limitations calling for caution are all too many. While the spring styles will not provide any scope for the novice, nevertheless they will be easy’ to follow by’ any one of any’ experience at all. But as regards dresses, be it observed, as it is a very’ different proposition when we come to the ensemble, with the completing • thing a coat, which must be perfectly’ cut and equally well made. These ensembles are, to me. a fascinating subject, and all because they’ are in effect two outfits in one. It is simply a case of the coat on or off, and there you have it. Those semi-masculine lines will pass out with spring. The little coats, or big ones for that matter, will be cut, made, and trimmed all in the orthodox way, and that means as nicely, as prettily, and as effectively as it is possible to have them.

This is a dress that you can study as it is. or argue as an ensemble, the coat in the latter ease having been left behind. The drawing is confined to the lines to enable these to be shown clearly. The upper section is as pleasing as the lower, and the lower as the upper, all in a single

material if desired, but not in the case of an ensemble, as then, of course, the upper section will be different, the coat repeating the material, or shade thereof, of the skirt. Ribbons play their part, all in conjunction with pleats; but note the hat —as plain as one of the helmets of a certain crusade, and with those overear pieces a very late note.

The sports style rules, and the rule is going to become more so. It is no accident. We have simply moved along the road of so-called emancipation, when we are far more at home when not actually there and far less when we are. And the sports style lends enchantment to colour, and it is all in the juniper or that part of the dress. In this connection I have been noting a setting out of modes, all remarkably attractive, but some of it, I suspect, due to the artist. The sports style, as I heard a “ wit ” say, is the style that suggests that the wearer is either going on to the field to do something to show her womanly prowess or coming away from it after the display. As just said, the jumper or that part of the dress hall-marks everything, as when the little coat is worn it is with a don't-care air, meaning that it is worn open and with a show of negligence. And the handkerchief-scarf assists —a French idea, by the way’, and so something that looks as though it had been merely slipped around the neck and tied anyhow. The sports style calls for a hat in keeping and gets it, something that suits, of course, but just as simple as ever it can be. And incidentally I observe something in the way of brims, an undulating variety that has something about it suggestive of the wave.

Speaking of brims, there is something that dictates to La Mode before she dictates to us, and it is'the sun. Brims will have their innings alongside of hats with next door to none at all, and here is one example. It is a hat with the

brim all in front and mainly’ on one side, the back being close and the other side nearly so. These banded treatments, one

band over another, are a marked feature, and in this case two or associated with a rather pretty arrangemerit at the side with two crisp ends. Quite the thing is the hat with some little break in the contour of the crown; and something over the top, which may be in the shape, is another item to notice.

If we are desirous of doing as little as ever we can for ourselves then the drapers and others are quite willing to come to our aid. For no one, unless so disposed, need do a single thing with an outfit to-day, and what is more, if she is a normal type, it is always already there. It is not as it used to be, an unusual thing to buy everything ready made. In fact it is the general choice, and in my opinion it is growing. Give the world a few more years fo settle down properly, and I expect that we shall no more think of making anything for our-

selves than the other sex do with what they happen to wear, the tailor, the hatter, and the shoemaker being charged with the task of purveying only completed goods. I’ll go farther and guess at a time when if needle and thread are kept ’ at all it will be to sew on detached buttons, and I am not sure even about that.

These are two little frocks of the utility’ kind, though whether you approve/

skirts as short as indicated or not I cannot say. If you do. then so be it, while if you don’t, then lengthen them to conform to your opinion.' The only thing

that the selections bring out is the pleat with the skirt, though as regards the second material, in the one case it is used for the neck and “ waist,” and in the other for the sleeves as well. * * * A dainty handkerchief for show, not use, is a very taking accessory, and very choice are the ones they show. As with everything, it all depends on the price you are prepared to pay. A reallv fine one with an artistic border can be‘made to serve a decorative purpose with every advantage., If there is a pocket in the right position, this being, what passes for such, that little handkerchief will provide a finishing'touch. But there are so many ways of carrying it, all good except the one—far too frequent—where it is dropped on the way for someone to ?u\+i UP i occasionally pick up a little handkerchief, and am alwavs embarrassed as to what to do with it. It is a hint to be careful.