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THE HANDY MAN’S CORNER.

FIXING A TRELLIS.

(Special.—Fob the Witness.)

A screen, something after the style indi- ; cated in Fig. 1, can be fixed very quickly and cheaply. Mark out the side by pegs . stretched tightly between them to define the position of the screen. Holes for the chief uprights are then dug or “ barred.” The latter operation consists of making a small, deep, conical hole by driving a long, heavy, crow-bar verti cally into the ground, and circling it round to enlarge the hole, repeating the process until a hole of sufficient depth has been made. The uprights are then set up in the holes, the earth being well rammed in to make them firm. The tops of the uprights are next sawn off to a uniform level, which is indicated by a line stretched tightly along them from one end. The horizontal members are then nailed securely in place together with the' diagonal pieces, braces, and the vertical pieces in the bottom panels. Another class of trellis, pictured in Fig. 2, is known as the Italian pattern. It is composed of fairly large squares from 9 to 12in in size, and is fixed to the walls of the buildings. Its purpose is to relieve the monotony of a blank brick or other wall, and provide support for vines, roses or other climbing plants. this class of trellis ought to be fixed to vertical strips of wood directly nailed to the wall. These not only provide a ready means of fixing the trellis itself, but keep the latter away from t-he wall, so adding to its longevity and improving its, appearance. ... The framework is shown in section in Fig. 3, and the vertical pieces may be

spaced about sft to 6ft apart. The wood is secured to the wall by 4in cut nails driven through the w r ood into the mortar joints. The horizontal members of the trellis are then nailed to the framework, and the vertical members are afterwards

nailed to the front of the horizontal pieces. The wood for this class of trellis is preferably machine planed on all faces and edges, and should measure about one-and-a-half inches wide and half-inch thick. If it is to be painted, the strips should be well painted before erection, and given a

final coat as soon as it is fixed in place. As far as possible when fixing a trellis ot this character, arrange that there shall be a framework round all the window and doorway openings. This can be done by disposing the uprights so that they come naturally at either side of the apertures, the horizontal members also coming at the top and bottom of the window openings. The ordinary commercial trellis nurchasable from the ironmonger or timber merchant is ready for use and only has to be’ pulled out to the desired or correct length and nailed to your framework. Specially prepared wood is obtainable for the top member, or “ capping ” the uprights and the horizontal members, all having a groove in one or more faces to receive the ends of the trellis, as indicated in Fig. 4. The timber framework is morticed and tennoned together at all junctions in the usual way. When ordinary timber has to be used the arrangement in Fig. 4 is quite effective, and may comprise a top piece Sin wide and l|in thick, to the underside of which are nailed two strips of beading, leaving a gap between them for the trellis. The uprights are preferably a little thicker, say, 3in wide and 2in thick, and have headings nailed to each of the undersides if the trellis is to continue. For corner posts it is best to use 3in square material, and to nail the headings to the inner faces. All material for such constructions should be stained or painted before assembly, and be given a final coat on completion of the work.

CUT THIS OUT: Subject of Next Week’s Article:—“MAKlNG AN ICE BOX.”

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/OW19270621.2.33

Bibliographic details

Otago Witness, Issue 3823, 21 June 1927, Page 10

Word Count
664

THE HANDY MAN’S CORNER. Otago Witness, Issue 3823, 21 June 1927, Page 10

THE HANDY MAN’S CORNER. Otago Witness, Issue 3823, 21 June 1927, Page 10