IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3823, 21 June 1927, Page 67

IN FASHION’S REALM.

UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By Marguerite. Seeing what a limited field is offered, it is wonderful what a number of w’hys there are of applying fur to the greatcoat collar. Much, of course, depends on whether the collar turns over much or little and whether it is a long rever or a short one. The large top is simple, and with the revers continued in a narrower form likewise; but there are others. A very fine fur collar is one that stands upright at the back and then comes down as revers that extend where they start to the width of the shoulders. A collar like this is very fine in something that suggests a “ stripe,” and then there are the cuffs. Another good collar is a top one with a roll, and a bit suggestive of a boa. and a finer than all is a fiat collar with a step and revers, all i_n fur, and where the revers end the fur continued to the hem as an edging or border. But there are so many, ever so many, and now is the time when they are seen in all their glory.

Speaking of furs, have you seen the new idea of double ones, one one colour and the other another. I myself have not, but I saw a picture—American incidentally—and there it was. This explains things, the wearer fronting you. One of the animals, black, is seen as though running up the rever, such being to the left shoulder, on which it rests its head, and the other, white, is seen coming round the neck the other way, and so down the other rever, with its head to finish. The impression to me was that one animal was chasing the other; but I’ll admit at once that it was striking, and I had to notice the words, “The very latest thing.” In a dress note? No, but in the advertisement of a leading American drapery house. Anything for a change, and this at least serves to get away with two pelts where one might do.

These bands that you see around so many hats are rather engaging. They suggest quite a number of things, but the advantage they have is this: with the very high crown they reduce it in effect, in that they break the field. The example herewith is a good one, the bands half-

way up turning what is below them and the brim into a band. Such shapes are popular, and there is just enough about it to remind me that one of the coming shapes, if it has not come already, will be a hat of this character, but with a peak and a wider top. v

A bow is seen with many of the best coats, or will be at no very distant date. There will be no girdle. The coat will be plain, buttoning once well down on the side, and a very large bow will be applied on the other. Another note with coats where the collar stands up is the long “V ” at the back. While in cases this will be fur filled, in others it will be only bordered, and, better than all, in others it will be stitched. And then there will be a series of them, “V ” within “ V,” or, say. four in all.

Skirts are another thing to wonder about —the extraordinary number of ways of pleating such when there is so very little to work on. The even box pleat requires but little notice. It goes all the way round, and that ends it. There is, however, a style where the pleats are narrow and in groups, with a break between one group and another. The fan pleat consists of one either side front, stitched close- to a short distance and then opening, and so just like a fan; and a noteworthy style is the pleated skirt in two lengths, as though one were over the other. With all this there is the cross-wise pleat, but that entails something. with the rest of the dress to harmonise it. Pleats are in tremendous evidence, and always remember that every pleat makes a “ line.” In which connection I shall soon have something to say respecting what it has led to —the coat, suit, or dress with lines running at angles, and very pretty they look. Pattern? Certainly not! Treatment!

Even though it was a model designed for the waning of winter, and so for the start of spring, I had to sketch it, and all because of its prettiness. Did ever you see anything more charming—the follower in the way of the little coat we are now wearing, open all the way down, but clipped together at the front ends, and, with that sash just what you see, a pleated skirt, with bands on coat, sleeves, and skirt to complete. But there is no need to wait. The charm of a design like this is its adaptability. Vary this and vary that, and then ever so little, and it is quite good now.

■ A hat that engaged my attention was one with a straight upright crown, rounded and gathered in a little roll at the top.

and brim a narrow gentle eave all round. But it was not the shape, albeit it is necessary to gi/e it. With the band a,

plain black ribbon, and not too narrow, the whole of the crown was with a tartan effect, and anything nicer I haven’t seen. Then three ornaments in front, one over the other —tartan chevrons with black edgings. I am assuming that you know what a chevron is. Look at one on an escutcheon, or, if such is not available, then on a policeman’s sleeve or a soldier’s. It is a short angled stripe.

A little coat that is bordered and worn open, a blouse showing with just one of those chevrons, point down, and a pleated skirt. And then a frock with the bodice crossed with the narrowest possible bands or cord, in diamond-wise style; top of bodice and sleeve plain, and a skirt in broad box pleats. They are two thumbnail notings of two very nice sports frocks I saw, any suitable material for now, and any suitable material for later.

And now a little coat with a passing glance .at the one that follows for the comparison. This is a smart and very pleasing style, and just as mannish as it is convenient to make it. It will be edged in contrast enough to serve, and

note that superlative application on the revers —a late little trick, and very popular abroad as an ornamentation for revers generally. And for the inset? Well, the best -way to feminise a coat isnot to masculine what is used with the neck in just this way.

I was interested on reading a little address by a professor on the danger of short hair, and also a little bit amused. He said that now there is no hair to pin it to the hat must fit tightly enough to retain its position unaided. True; but he added as though with a sigh: “And I can see plainly enough that it is going to end in a bald-headed race the ladies’ side.” Now, I do not pretend to know too much, but tell me how, even if I do go bald, 1 am likely to impart it to my children and they to theirs? Even so, was there no one in the audience to ask the good professor how it was with himself? From what I have read men have been wearing hats that, having been put on, will stay that way, ew since Cromwell’s

followers set the fashion, but I don’t think that it hfis affected their hair ond way or the other.

Here is the other little coat, with, the reverse remark —take a -glance at the onfc

fcefore it. This is the double-breasted variety, and so just the opposite. I had no particular design in drawing it in bare outline, but I like contrasts, and so one being solid the other is given open. Note again what I said of whatever is worn inside to show. You want a masculine style, but you want it to have a feminine look. The scarf accomplishes as much in this case.