GARDEN & ORCHARD.

Otago Witness, Issue 3808, 8 March 1927, Page 11

GARDEN & ORCHARD.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

By

D. Tannock.

THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY. Pelargoniums and geraniums which were cut over some time ago to provide cuttings have now started to break into new growth, and are ready to be shaken out of their old soil and potted up again. The smaller plants which arte to be grown on in. six-inch pots can be potted in that size right away, but the larger specimens are better potted up into a pot which will just hold their roots, and when growth is well under way they are potted on to their flowering pots. The soil in which they are potted will consist of good turfy loam two parts, leafmould and wellrotted manure one part, half a part sand and old mortar rubble, and a good dusting of bone meal. Turn the plants out of their pots, shake off all the old soil, and trim the roots a bit. Place them in pots which will just accommodate their ..roots, pot in some of the soil, and work it well down among them. Press the soil firmly round the sides of the pots with the potting stick, adding more soil and finishing it off level and firm on top. Stand them back in the frames or in the cool greenhouse, give one good watering, but afterwards water with great care until the foliage develops and the roots penetrate the soil in all directions. Continue to spray overhead twice a day and shade from strong sunshine at first. Geraniums which arc being grown on for winter flowering can now' be brought into the greephouse, but is yet too soon io allow the buds to develop. This is a busy time with the chrysanthemums. Take the buds of the large bloom and the decorative kinds as they develop, continue to give weak liquid manure once or twice a week, and as the soil becomes washed out of the pots through frequent watering, and the roots become exposed, it is desirable to give a light -top-dressing. The top-dressing will consist of good loam two parts, leafmould and sand one part, and a dusting of some approved fertiliser such as Standen’s or Clay’s. First remove all weeds, then prick up the surface soil a bit with a sharp stick, and afier applying the soil ram it firmly with the potting stick, keeping it an inch below the rim of the pot for convenience when watering. Should black fly appear bn the tips of the young shoots dust with tobacco powder. Watch carefully for caterpillars, and to prevent mildew if possible spray the plants occasionally, say, once a fortnight, with sulphide of potassium, lvz to three gallons of water. Continue to pot on the cinerarias into their flowering pots or tins, pot up primula malacoides from the boxes into five-inch pots (in which they will flower), and pot on calceolarias into three-inch pots. The soil in which there are foliage plants such as palms and ferns, becomes exhausted by the autumn, and as it is not desirable to shift them at this season if it can be avoided, they should get good top-dressing. First turn out the plants ard examine the drainage, replacing the crocks if they have become choked up with dirt. Prick off as much of the surface soil as possible without damaging the roots, and replace it with a similar soil mixture to that recommended for the chrysanthemums, making it as firm as the ball of roots. Spring is the time for dividing up and repotting, autumn for top-dressing. THE FLOWER GARDEN. I ha,ve frequently recommended planting daffodils in the grass or in borders among

deciduous shrubs where they will not multiply too quickly, and can be left undisturbed for years. After the recent heavy rains the soil is in excellent condition for planting, and there is nothing to be gained by keeping the bulbs out of the ground longer than is necessary. Of the two methods usually adopted I prefer to plant with the spade. First remove a piece of turf about nine inches square and three inches deep, loosen up the soil in the bottom of the hole, working in a handful of the loose soil, finally replacing the turf and tramping or beating it down into its place. Daffodils are also very satisfactory in groups ,or along the margin of a shubbery border. The roots of the shrubs prevent the soil from becoming sour while the bulbs are at rest during the summer, and daffodils form a suitable carpet for flowering shrubs in the spring. Border carnations are nearly over now, and we need have no hesitation in cutting away the old flower stems and layering the young shoots to provide plants for next season. To keep the dahlias and sweet peas flowering it is necessary to pick off the old flowers and seed pods regularly, and to give them a little liquid manure once a week. . The flower stems of herbaceous perennials can be cut off as soon as they are past their best. Antirrhinums are'still making a fine display in the flower'garden, either in beds by themselves or as groups in the mixed borders, and no annua] has made more progress during recent years. They are not, strictly speaking, annuals, for they stand the winter and flower again in the spring, but they are more satisfactory when treated as annuals. The seed is"”usually sown in gentle heat in the early spring’ the seedlings being pricked out in the usual way as soon as large enough to handle, and owing to their hardiness they caji be nut outside earlier than the rest of the Gedding plants. If intended for bedding purposes the points of the growths are pinched off when they are about three inches tall, but if intended for exhibition the leading shoots should be allowed to develop. There are four distinct types, .the tall ones growing to a height of three feet, the intermediate from 18 inches to 22 inches, the bedding kinds from 12 inches to 18 inches, and the Tom Thumbs from 9 inches' to 12 inches. The delicate and charming shades can be had in all the three taller types, and a bed or border filled with them graded roughly from the bedding types at ■'the front to the tall kinds at the back each being planted in groups of from nine to 12 plants of a variety. If the spikes are cut off as soon as the last flowers drop they will continue to make a display rh-ht on to the winter.

As a rule there is a time in the flower garden in the autumn, and this is the most suitable season for building a new rock garden or renovating an old one. There is no doubt that rock gardens are increasing in popularity, and there is no better method of making a slope or terrace a thing o f perennial interest and beauty. k.ome of the advantages of a rock garden are: (1) We can grow a greater variety of plants on a rock garden than in an ordi* nary border. (2) We can grow many plants successfully on a rock garden which would not live in a border. (3) We secure better ripening, and many plants will flower on. the rock garden which are not satisfactory in a border. (4) We can grow many plants on the rock garden which would perish in an ordinary border during the winter, either through frost or excessive dampness. (5) Many dwarf spreading plants look better and can be seen to greater advantage on a rock garden than a flat border.

When selecting the site for the rock garden choose one in which it will look as natural as possible—=quite in the open, and away from the robbing roots of trees or strong-growing shrubs, and not in any way overshadowed by overhanging branches. As most of the New Zealand towns are built on hills there is no difficulty in getting suitable sites for rock gardens, and where the ground is flat the best idea is to throw out the soil to a reasonable depth, the lower portion being sunk, and the excavated material will provide the height. It is most important to clear the site of all perennial ami running weeds, such as couch grass and sorrel, before building operations commence, for once these weeds get in they are difficult to get out. The kind of ■Stone will depend largely on circumstances. Weathered limestone and other porous rough roeks are the most suitable, but any kind of weathered rock will do. Squared or pointed blocks of hard blue stone are the least desirable, and smooth water-worn boulders are heavy to handle and difficult to build. Brickbats, pieces of concrete, and clinkers are also unsuitable. The larger and r<ftigher the roeks are the easier they are to build, and the better they will hold together, and as they are heavy to handle it is better to have them delivered above the job than below it. To secure a well-drained foundation and save the large boulders for prominent positions, it is desirable to have a few loads of smaller stones as a foundation on which the larger ones can rest. THE VEGETABLE AND FRUIT GARDEN.

Pick and store apples and pears as they ripen, gather up windfall apples, and if they show signs of codlin moth destroy them. Thin but the young growths on peach and apricot trees growing against a wall or fence, and if not already done the young growths in the centre of the gooseberry and currant bushes should be thinned out to allow the wood to ripen and the fruit buds to develop. All potatoes can be dug and stored in a cool, dry, airy shed or cellar, keeping the light away from, them, of course'; the tubers selected for next year’s seed bing placed in shallow trays and placed out in the open to green. Continue to plant out broccoli and spring cabbage, and make sowings of let-

tuce, cabbage, spinach, turnips, carrots, and onions to stand over the winter. Leeks and celery can be earthed up, and the hoe should be kept going among all growing crops. ° Peas intended for seed should be collected as soon as the pods are ripe, and they can be placed in a piece of scrim and hung up in a cool, airy shed, or they can be spread out on sheets of paper and placed on the stage in the greenhouse or put out in a frame with the sash on to keep them dry. All ground which it is mten ’ed to plant with spring and early summer vegetables should be deeply dug, and if manure is used it should be well rotted, but as we must avoid a soft, rank growth, which would be damaged during the winter, it is better to apply bone meal, or blood and bone. If the soil is reasonably dry make it firm wffli rolling or treading. i — ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. “Novice,” Balclutha.—You should trim the sides of your Lawsoniaria hedge to make it thicken out, but I would not advise topping it until it has reached the desired height. You are not too late for sowing cabbage to come on in the spring. It is now too late to sow savoys. “D.M.H.,” Balclutha.—l am afraid I do not know enough about lichens to identify the one you sent, but it is quite common on the beech, growing in apparently dry districts.