IN FASHION’S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3808, 8 March 1927, Page 67

IN FASHION’S REALM.

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES. By Marguerite. j <_ I Of course, you read that “shingle” cable. A certain great man who is responsible for a certain great wave regrets that there is not enough left for the process, and,' the wish being father to the thought, opines that the “shingle”, is doomed, and that from now on women will let their hair grow. Which means that in his opinion they will do this: wilfully ami with malice aforethought work forward to the old hairpin life, when an hour was spent in the morning doing it up, an hour at night letting it down, combine- it, and perchance putting some of it into papers, and no end of hours otherwise adjusting it, washing it, drying it in the sun. and wondering what the answer should be to this, “Is my hat on straight?” No, the certain great man is mistaken, and likewise is that other authority who, in replying to him, agrees with him, but gives it 10 years—the life, in his opinion, of the short skirt. With the profoundest deference, those who imagine that women will ever wear their hair long again are lacking in that quality that is called common sense. They will return neither to long hair nor to long skirts. To suppose that they will do so, merely for a change, is to quite forget the exploded forecast of the Cavalier barber. Noting the “Roundheads” around him, he said: “Wait!. They’ll all come back.” -But, you see,' they didn’t, and then the Cavaliers followed suit. Every man you encounter to-day, unless a poet, is proof positive that when the “Roundheads” went in for a short-cut for men they sent masculine ringlets to the right-abouts for ever. It will be the same with ais—long hair will never return.

Tn my own opinion these dress lectures who know no more than "chiffons” are poor guides at any time. Dress is governed by many considerations. In some things Fashion dictates, inothers those who are her subjects do, and when they arc united, the former for commercial reasons and the latter because it suits them—well, that is likely to remain. Now Dame Fashion dictates features and colours, and even at times materials, meaning what produces them: but her subjects, once they have anything specially goojl, hold on, refusing to recognise as an offence to-day what was declared a virtue yesterday. And" where a commercial purpose is served that settles it—the thing becomes fixed. Thus, if the short skirt necessitates short hair, then short hair remains, simply because the short skirt must remain, Dame Fashion approving, her subjects demanding; but—observe!—the stocking-making industry resenting any alteration, and the shoemaking one supporting it. This is where these dress lecturers who know nothing of _ trade fail—they cannot see that it is impossible .to ruin one great industry and seriously injure another. Where Dame-Fashion shines is in the features. We” shall not allow her to

lengthen the skirt, but we welcome a new design like the one herewith, hi which she practically says: “Carry the bodice section down’ in the same way,

but for a. change curve the sides below the girdle, as though they were folded wings, and have the skirt in just as many free pleats as will provide a good contrast.” Very well, we obey the dictgtress. * * * Speaking of dress opinions, I noticed the other day a little paper by a lady living in Tokio, and it is worth referring to because it proves what I have said — that sometimes other things quite distinct from dress call part of the tune. In this case it is architecture and furniture. According to this authority, all Japan (feminine section) is rapidly becoming westernised —bobbed hair with the usual hat, dress with the short skirt, silk stockings and high-heeled shoes. The Japanese girls go to business in Tokio that way, and the Japanese dames when they follow to “shop” are dressed in the same, and there you have it—but, observe, outdoors. House dressing is different, simply because of the architecture, and because the chair is the floor —the old order remaining. • * * * Harping on the skirt, I notice a tremendous inclination towards the one in tiers, and see by what reaches me from abroad that it is the skirt of the hour everywhere. The illustration gives one of the simple kind, and also empha-

sises the value of the designed edge—the scallop before anything. And I have done the picture without a hat purposely. and turned the head sideways for the same reason—a modern autumn girl—short hair, short skirt, and all the more charming in consequence. r * * * We are less concerned over heavyweights in materials than we used to be. I remember when it was all so different—when the great coat, being viewed as an abomination, the autumn dress had to be warm and the winter one warmer. The position to-day is this: the toilet as a whole during the coldest part of the year consists of dress and great coat together, the former whatever we like as regards the weight in that the latter counts as a dress ini itself, donable or doffable at will. As a matter of fact, it is easier to understand this than to explain it, but I think you will get my meaning—the great coat as adorable as anything that can be made, and a dress and shield together. It is a growth, and one of the things that go to prove that sensible dressing is a thing of modern times, and when I say that I mean of the last 20 or 30 years. * * * Here you have the tiered skirt agai<i, but in this case it is not plain at all—it is rather elaborate. Those bell-like

turns in the flounce are not altogether new, but they are new enough, and I

sec that they are likely to persist. The design is for a day dress, of course, but there are possibilities for the evening, and so it is like having two designs in one. * * * Mentioning fur again, I may sav that if we are going to follow suit, it will have a great run this season, and reach the acme at the time designed for it —winter. But I am far more inclined to speak of fur as a trimming than in any other relation. When it comes to great coate, fur, of course, is in its element, as for the collar alone or the collar and cuffs, or, maybe, the collar and cuffs and the pockets. And I see that it has its place with dresses, the collar being the usual thing; but when fur is used in this way_ it is with some regard for the length of the “hair.” We have become rather used to fur, and now appreciate its value to the full. It is a wonderful beautifier, and, observe, of the wearer as well as of the garment. Somehow, fur against the face gives it a beauty of 50 per cent. more. * * * This design is as good as though fully shown. What remains? .Simply to carry the skirt down to its appointed length

and to continue the girdle tie to the? same—the end from the bow. It is a good utility design—just the kind of dress for excellent service.