THE APIARY.

Otago Witness, Issue 3773, 6 July 1926, Page 11

THE APIARY.

BY

J. A.

TALKS TO BEGINNERS: No. 10. Having shown the importance of ample stores and strongly advocated the ‘‘food chamber” method, I now turn to the care of the apiary during winter. I assume that ample stores have been left to every colqny at least to carry them through to spring!* Winter feeding is never very satisfactory, unless it can be done by giving combs of sealed honey. If an attempt is made to do it with sugar syrup it will be found both expensive and unsatisfactory. The beekeeper’s work, then, during the winter months lies more in keeping the bees comfortable, warm, and The first essential in doing this is to have a water-proof cover. The liability of wood covers to crack with the sun is so great that very poor results generally follow their use. Bome people attempt with putty and lead paint to keep them waterproof. This, however, does not last, and it becomes necessary sooner or later to cover with malthoid or "Zinc coverings. Either of these acts very well, and if accurately folded at the corners remains perfectly water-proof. In folding malthoid or similarly prepared roofing it is well to use a blow lamp so as to fold them without cracking. My Roslyn Bush cover is made flat with a rim round it to telescope on the super. It is covered with malthoid, and though 100 of them have *heen in use for six or seven years there has so far been no leak. My greatest objection to them is that, being black, they draw the heat in summer time. This could probably be -remedied by the use of a light coloured paint. With this cover I use no mats, there being only a bee space between the cover and the top of the frames. The bees build bur combs in this space, and fasten the roof down, so that there is little fear of movement by wind or storm. With a water-proof cover keeping the inside of the hive dry, I have done much towards the comfort of the inmates.

Where hip roofs are used, or any roof that gives a space more than. £in, it is necessary to use mats, otherwise the bees would immediately fill up the roof with comb. Some beekeepers use packing above these mats for greater warmth in winter time. In oui climate this does not seem to be necessary. In climates such as the Northern States of America and Canada it is necessary either to pack the hives close together jn large cases or to put them in cellars. It is from these colder climates that a great deal of our bee literature comes, and beginners may think that the instructions for wintering should apply here, but it is not so. With ordinary care the hive itself is a sufficient protection. It must, however, have a waterproof cover, and be tight fitting throughout. The stands should be well off the ground. This prevents damp from the ground, and the consequent decay of the timber. It also keeps back the wonderful array of ground insects, such as slaters, slugs, earwigs, and beetles, which otherwise gradually encroach on the brood-nest. The stand I described in a former article (made of bricks laid on the levelled ground nd having plates of 4 x 2 hardwood) keeps the hive 6in clear of the ground, and protects the bottom board, keeping it well ventilated and dry. The entrances to the hives should not in winter time be larger than 3in x £in, and if these are protected by a tin shield cut so that mice cannot get. into the hive so much the better. Mice are very destructive when they can get free access to the hives, more especially where mats are used, as they very soon tease up the edges of the mats and build their nests on top of it, finding the warmth of the brood-nest below very comfortable, and the supply of nice comb honey outside of the cluster very much to their liking. Having made the hives comfortable, it is a mistake to be constantly opening them up. I know the fever that leads the beginner to want to see so often how things are getting on. It is better to leave them closed down for the whole of the winter months and not to disturb them at all until the first beginnings of spring. When, however, he gets round to the middle of August, when the grass begins to glisten and the buds to swell, then it is time to wake up. But that is next week’s story.

A good deal can be done for the winter comfort of an apiary by choosing a location with a warm exposure and sheltered on the western and southern sides by a close-growing hedge, with a belt of shelter trees behind it. In Southland this might well be carried round the eastern side also, as easterlies in the spring are always very trying. If there is a fall in the ground to the north, and the hives are made to face in that direction, then this outside protection should be of great value. I have found in my own experience that where bees are subject to a strong draught, such as may come through a plantation which is getting bare at bottom, it is very hurtful to them, and will sometimes kill them altogether. They need protection from cold winds and draughts, and equally they need to enjoy the full strength of the sun in the spring time. The apiarist who cares for his bees will experience great satisfaction from making them snug in their surroundings and warm and cosy in their hives, and when spring comes he will reap his reward in the manner in which they open out.