GARDEN & ORCHARD.

Otago Witness, Issue 3714, 19 May 1925, Page 11

GARDEN & ORCHARD.

WORK FOR THF WEEK.

By

D. Tannock.

THE GREENHOUSE AND NURSERY The present is a busy time in the greenhouse and nursery, the summer bedding plants, such as fuchsias, tuberous begonias, cannas, etc., are coming in to be aealt with, and the spring bedding kinds are being sent out. Glacfioli and dahlias are also being dug up, and every available space is taken up. Things soon straighten out, however for the gladioli, dahlias, and tuberous begonias are soon dry enough to be packed in boxes of dry aoil and stored away in a dry- frost-proof shed or cellar. It is not necessary to pack the gladioli in soil, they are all right when spread out in shallow boxes and placod on a dry, airy shelf. In addition to the bedding plants coming in, such bulbs as frcesias, narcissi, tulips, hyacinths, and crocuses, which were potted or boxed up will now have rooted sufficiently to bo brought in, in preparation for forcing. This has to be gentle at first and the bulbs are placed in a frame or a cool greenhouse for about a week or more to accustom them to the light before placing them in the warm or forcing house to hasten on development. Freest as are inclined to flop over, and each plant should receive a neat stake or a few pieces of twiggy branches can be stuck in among them to provide support. Pelargoniums and geraniums, which were rooted early, can now be potted up into three or four inch pots, using a light open ■oil mixture, and calceolarias should be fumigated and picked over occasionally. Continue to make and put in hardwood cuttings. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The present is a very bus v time in the flower garden, all spring flowering plants should be put into their flowering positions this month, leaves have to be raked up from time to time, and preparations have to be made for planting out trees, shrubs, and roses.. Continue to prune rambler roses. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN AND ORCHARD. It is better to leave all further planting and sowing of vegetables until early spring and to concentrate on the planting of fruit trees and bushes, the digging and trenching of all vacant soil, and the pruning and spraying of trees and bushes. PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES. Most people when laying out a new place or rearranging an old one like to get results as quickly as possible, and as quße large trees can be transplanted with safety provided reasonable precautions are taken, this desire can be attained. Nurserymen usually have a number of well-grown trees, and it is often possible to get a tree from a garden where thick planting was done in the first place to get quick results. Specimen trees are usually planted in holes, anj if the soil is clay or of a ret-ir. live nature some provision has to be made for drainage. The holes arc usually Jug from lift to 2Jft in depth and about 3ft in diameter, and to provide drainage about Sin of rough clinkers or broken stones are put in the bottom of the hole, and a drainpipe laid to a lower level to drain the water away. If several trees are plained in a row ihe drain should run from hole to hole, commencing at the highest and finishing at the lowest, or if they are planted in a group each hole is connected by an agricultural pipe to a main drain, which is led away to a lower level. When planting on a bank a cut can be made in the lower side of the hole to let the water out, but ns this is liable to become choked up it is better to put in an agricultural pipe to drain at the bottom of the hole. Drainage is most important, for most trees will perish if the roots are submerged for u short time. When lifting trees a trench is dug round as described for root pruning, and if this is lone at least six months before shifting fibrous roots are formed where the roots were cut and the soil is held together. It is not really necessuiy to retain soil on the roots provided the thin fibrous ones are retained, and while a ball of soil is essential for evergreen trees, shrubs, and rhododendrons, it is not essential for deciduous trees and shrubs. When preparing the hole first throw in all the turfy and weedy soil and chop it up, then put in some fine soil, forming a mound in the centie on which the base of the roots will rest. The depth to be planted is just about the same as in the old position or in the nursery rows (the old soil mark will in lic&te the depth), and on no account should it be deeper, for a newly-planted tree has a tendency to sink as the soil settles down. The natural direction for the roots to grow is downwards, and it is belter to allow them to follow their natural bent. It will be noticed that most trees have a tendency —and often a very marked one—for the base of the stem to be elevated above the surrounding ground, and though some tree 3, like elms and willows, will root upwards many trees perish through having the base of the stem buried under the ground. When placing the tree In the hole, put the best developed side against the prevailing winds and the worst developed side next the sun. The vigorous growth on one side and the retarded growth on the other will soon produce a tr.se with an evenly balanced head. It is also necessary in most cases to reduce the branches to some extent lo bring the head into harmony with the damaged root system, and the opportunity should be taken to remove all cross-growing branches, and those which grow inwards towards the centre of the tree. Having placed the tree in position, throw in some fine soil, and by shaking the stem work it among the fibrous roots. Next throw in soil evenly round the ball of roots and ram or tramp it firmly as it is put in. Tramp the soil round nnd against the roots, but don’t tramp on tho roots until they are well covered with

soil. Should the soil and tlv weather be dry give a good soaking beioie levelling oti the top of the soil and completing the planting operation. Newly-planted trees should be supported in some way, and though there are several methods the best one for moderately large trees is a good stout stake. The most suitable stakes are young saplings of tarch, douglas fir, spruce, or macrocarpa, and these should be from 2ft to 3ft higher than the tree. With a crowbar make a hole through the ball of roots close in to the inam stem, taking care not to damage the main roots, and drive the stake right down to the solid, which should leave the top of the stake within about a foot of the top of the tree. See that it is perpendicular, and then tie securely with soft rope in three places, taking care to place a piece of old rubber tyre between the tree stem and the stake to prevent rubbing. One tie should be immediately below the branches, one halfway up the head, and another near the top. Many trees are spoiled through the use of short square stakes, scarcely reaching to the branches, and often painted white to make them more conspicuous. Tho present is also the best month for planting out roses, and if the beds and Imrders have been prepared no time should be lost in getting them in. They usually arrive from the nurserymen wrapped up in scrim or paper with damp grass, hay, or moss round the roots, and tho greatest care has to be taken when unpacking to prevent them from being broken out at tho socket. It is also necessary to heel in the plants at once, or to cover up the roots with a damp sack to prevent them from clrying up. First- level the bods and break down the surface roughly, then with sticks mark out the positions of the plants, allow''mg from 2ft to 2ft 3in between the rows and between the plants in the rows for strong growers, and 3in less each way for tji9 weaker growing kinds. Next, with the spade take out a hole in the front of each stick about a foot square and 18in deep, laying the soil up on either side. It is better to have two people at the planting operation, one to hold' tho plants ■ } he /J the / to P ut in soil, and it is advisable for th e holder to wear stout CTL g es - u E^ n ' t la y the Plants out. but remove each from its root covering as it is to he planted and place it against the ° . th ;l ho,e . with ‘ho ""ion of ho and ,, the sc,on about 2in below evenlv f Th h ™ Spread o the roots out th! nh,of r.Ti in some fine “'I- shake th! 'l 0 ® t° work in amongst the fibrous roots then add more soil and tramp firmly. Be sure to tramp firmly for unless the soil is wet and st.Vky it h hardly possib! jto make it too firm. Many plants are lost through loose planting fihey wriggle round and form a puddle round the neck which is undesirable. it the soil is wet and sticky it is better to prepare a little bit of special stuff cam. wUhVlitt' p o **'"* so j' »ud chopped turf. V 7 a u tt,e bone meal added, and to put at leant two shovelfuls of this mixture over the roots when planting. It encourages rooting and gives the plant a good chance ot becoming well established and making good growth the first season. Leave the surface soil of the beds level, but rough exposing it to the beneficial influence of the weather until the time arrives for nlantin? fhe carnations, violas, or pansies. Ine method of planting shrubs is halfway between that of trees ani.roses. Small specimens with a one-sided root system are planted against the back of the holes like roses, whereas those with a well-developed system all round are planted in the middle like trees, the soil being tramped firmly as it is put in, and care being taken not to plant them too deeply. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. “Red Berry” (Temuka).—The red berry sent- la one or the solanums, and as it belongs to the deadly nightshade family I should not use it, though I don’t kiiow whether it is poisonous or not. J. G. C. (Balclutha).—-I don’t think there is any plant which will keep down broom seedlings, but if scuffle-hoed over from time to time when they are quite young and any which escape pulled out, they will soon disappear. Deciduous and evergreen berberis, spreading cotoneasters, weighelias,. deutzias, and philadelphus will all thrive on a comparatively dry, rocky bank. A. ll.—lt won’t be necessary to prune your iaurel hedge any more in the meantime, and it will be better to place your seedling lobelias in a frame if you hm • room, if not they can be wintered beside a hedge.